Things to do in Thurso & Scrabster
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Riverside Walk
Thurso's idyllic country riverside walk starts near Waterside House; you can walk upstream, retracing your footsteps to come back (there was a bridge you could once cross to come back on the other side, but it's been washed out). It's a beautiful walk, taking about 45 minutes at a stroll, and is a very popular local pursuit in decent weather.
You can also walk all the way to Scrabster along cliffs for brilliant views (40 min) but take care when windy.
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A
Caithness Horizons
This museum brings much of the history and lore of Caithness to life through its excellent displays. A couple of fine Pictish cross-slabs greet the visitor downstairs; the main exhibition is a wide-ranging look at local history using plenty of audiovisuals – check out the wistful account of the now-abandoned island of Stroma for an emotional slice of social history.
There’s also a gallery space, an exhibition on the Dounreay nuclear reactor and a cafe.
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B
Bar 16
This is Thurso trying to get tarted up. It attracts a mix of tourists and locals looking for something a bit classier than trawling the scruffy local pubs in town. A modern space with couches and comfy chairs possessing a hint of minimalism, it’s a bit sterile but there’s a little sun-filled courtyard perfect for an evening drink. Steer clear of the seafood salad but try the chicken fajitas or sirloin steak baguette for a winner.
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C
Holborn
A trendy, comfortable place decked out in light wood, the Holborn contrasts starkly with more traditional Thurso watering holes. Quality seafood – including delicious home-smoked salmon – is the mainstay of a short but solid menu at its Red Pepper restaurant, where desserts are excellent too.
Its bar, Bar 16, is a modern space with couches and comfy chairs where bar meals (£7 to £10) are uncomplicated but decent.
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D
Thurso Heritage Museum
Thurso Heritage Museum, in the old Town Hall, displays Pictish and Christian fossils and carved stones, and a reconstruction of a croft interior. It was closed at the time of research for a major renovation and will reopen as Caithness Horizons in late 2008, featuring a museum, tourist office, visitor displays and a café.
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Ferry Inn
Near the ferry dock in Scrabster, this traditional stone pub has rather ugly extensions, but these house the busy restaurant. It specialises in steaks – pick your size – and local haddock; we reckon it’s a tad overpriced but the evening view over the harbour is great. Cheaper bar meals (£8 to £11) are downstairs, along with a pool table.
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Surfing
Thurso is an unlikely surfing centre, but the nearby coast has arguably the best and most regular surf on mainland Britain. There's an excellent right-hand reef break on the eastern side of town, directly in front of Lord Thurso's castle (closed to the public), and another shallow reef break 5 miles west at Brimms Ness.
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Captain’s Galley
Right by the ferry terminal in Scrabster, Captain’s Galley is a classy but friendly place offering a short, seafood-based menu that features local and sustainably sourced produce prepared in relatively simple ways, letting the natural flavours shine through. Most rate it the best eatery in Caithness.
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E
Le Bistro
Less sophisticated than when it was Thurso’s main gourmet option, this eatery buzzes with chatter on weekend evenings as locals of all ages chow down on its simple meat and carb creations. What it does, it does well: the respectably sized steaks come on a sizzling platter and service has a smile.
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F
Café Cardosi
Stylishly decked out in warm colours and a trendy, minimalist décor, Cardosi pumps out decent coffee, salads, light hot meals and sandwiches. The decadent home-baked cakes are a standout, but the best thing about this joint is people-watching, both inside and on the busy street outside.
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Red Pepper Restaurant
A step up again in the local dining scene. A simple dining room with lots of wood, good lighting and, most importantly, well-prepared food with generous portions and lots of local produce. Try the smoked chicken and spinach linguine followed by homemade cheesecake.
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H
Cafe Tempest
A blue shed by the harbour houses this cool wee cafe, with its comfy armchairs and sofas, beachcomber bric-a-brac and chilled surfing vibe. The coffee is brewed just right, and the menu ranges from breakfast dishes to homebaked cakes and filled panini.
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