Things to do in North & West Coast
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Ferry Boat Inn
Known as the FBI, this inn is to Ullapool what the castle is to Edinburgh. The pub’s a little less traditional-looking these days with its bleached wood and nonstained carpet, but it’s still the place where locals and visitors mingle. Some dishes on the menu are a little bland, but a well-run dining room, quality ingredients and great presentation compensate.
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Frigate Café
This waterfront cafe is a popular venue for coffee, tea and ice cream; it also sells a very tasty local smoked cheese. But you can also sit down and graze the Italian-influenced menu of salads, pizzas and pastas, or just drop by for a glass of wine or a beer.
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Eilean Donan Castle
Photogenically sited at the entrance to Loch Duich, near Dornie village, Eilean Donan Castle is one of Scotland’s most evocative castles, and must be represented in millions of photo albums. It’s on an offshore islet, magically linked to the mainland by an elegant, stone-arched bridge. It’s very much a re-creation inside with an excellent introductory exhibition. Keep an eye out for the photos of castle scenes from the movie Highlander. There’s also a sword used at the battle of Culloden in 1746. The castle was ruined in 1719 after Spanish Jacobite forces were defeated at the Battle of Glenshiel, and it was rebuilt between 1912 and 1932.
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Riverside Walk
Thurso's idyllic country riverside walk starts near Waterside House; you can walk upstream, retracing your footsteps to come back (there was a bridge you could once cross to come back on the other side, but it's been washed out). It's a beautiful walk, taking about 45 minutes at a stroll, and is a very popular local pursuit in decent weather.
You can also walk all the way to Scrabster along cliffs for brilliant views (40 min) but take care when windy.
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Caithness Horizons
This museum brings much of the history and lore of Caithness to life through its excellent displays. A couple of fine Pictish cross-slabs greet the visitor downstairs; the main exhibition is a wide-ranging look at local history using plenty of audiovisuals – check out the wistful account of the now-abandoned island of Stroma for an emotional slice of social history.
There’s also a gallery space, an exhibition on the Dounreay nuclear reactor and a cafe.
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Morefield Motel
This sedate motel serves an outstanding medley of local seafood, including langoustine, salmon, swordfish and lobster, in its lounge bar. It has a deservedly fine reputation and is popular with locals and tourists alike. There’s not much atmosphere, so come for the food not the buzz. If you can’t decide from the extensive menu and specials board, choose the seafood sampler. The motel is off the A835, a mile north of the harbour (follow Mill St).
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Strathnaver Museum
Housed in an old church, this museum tells the sad story of the Strathnaver Clearances through posters written by local kids. The museum contains memorabilia of Clan Mackay, various items of crofting equipment and a 'St Kilda mailboat', a small wooden boat-shaped container bearing a letter that was used by St Kildans to send messages to the mainland.
Outside the back door of the church is the Farr Stone, a fine carved Pictish cross-slab.
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Bar 16
This is Thurso trying to get tarted up. It attracts a mix of tourists and locals looking for something a bit classier than trawling the scruffy local pubs in town. A modern space with couches and comfy chairs possessing a hint of minimalism, it’s a bit sterile but there’s a little sun-filled courtyard perfect for an evening drink. Steer clear of the seafood salad but try the chicken fajitas or sirloin steak baguette for a winner.
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Holborn
A trendy, comfortable place decked out in light wood, the Holborn contrasts starkly with more traditional Thurso watering holes. Quality seafood – including delicious home-smoked salmon – is the mainstay of a short but solid menu at its Red Pepper restaurant, where desserts are excellent too.
Its bar, Bar 16, is a modern space with couches and comfy chairs where bar meals (£7 to £10) are uncomplicated but decent.
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Arch Inn
There's plenty to like about this waterfront inn, from its cosy bar (with pool table) serving comfort food like bangers and mash, to its classy upstairs restaurant with glorious loch views and smart creations using Scottish produce with a regional French twist. The outdoor tables right beside the lapping water are a top spot for a pint.
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The Seaforth
Accolades for the seafood dishes at this place are growing, which include homemade fish pie, a platter of creel-caught langoustines and crayfish tails with apple salad. Eat in the bustling pub downstairs with its booth seating, or for more sedate dining venture upstairs to the bistro where a tastefully furnished room and another bar is a good setup for families or groups.
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The Mountain Coffee Company & Hillbillies Bookshop
The Mountain Coffee Company & Hillbillies Bookshop is a shrine to all things mountaineering and has a lazy, chilled-out vibe. It sells excellent hearty food for walkers, best consumed in the attached conservatory. Besides, how can you go past a place that sells a mars bar cappuccino, New York bagels and mountain scones?
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Thurso Heritage Museum
Thurso Heritage Museum, in the old Town Hall, displays Pictish and Christian fossils and carved stones, and a reconstruction of a croft interior. It was closed at the time of research for a major renovation and will reopen as Caithness Horizons in late 2008, featuring a museum, tourist office, visitor displays and a café.
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Ferry Inn
Near the ferry dock in Scrabster, this traditional stone pub has rather ugly extensions, but these house the busy restaurant. It specialises in steaks – pick your size – and local haddock; we reckon it’s a tad overpriced but the evening view over the harbour is great. Cheaper bar meals (£8 to £11) are downstairs, along with a pool table.
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Surfing
Thurso is an unlikely surfing centre, but the nearby coast has arguably the best and most regular surf on mainland Britain. There's an excellent right-hand reef break on the eastern side of town, directly in front of Lord Thurso's castle (closed to the public), and another shallow reef break 5 miles west at Brimms Ness.
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Rhue Studio
This studio, 2.5 miles northwest of Ullapool, displays and sells the excellent art of contemporary landscape painter James Hawkins. The vivid and reflective works take a moment to adjust to but they are wonderful interpretations – his work on the Outer Hebrides is breathtaking. Call for winter opening hours.
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Captain’s Galley
Right by the ferry terminal in Scrabster, Captain’s Galley is a classy but friendly place offering a short, seafood-based menu that features local and sustainably sourced produce prepared in relatively simple ways, letting the natural flavours shine through. Most rate it the best eatery in Caithness.
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Le Bistro
Less sophisticated than when it was Thurso’s main gourmet option, this eatery buzzes with chatter on weekend evenings as locals of all ages chow down on its simple meat and carb creations. What it does, it does well: the respectably sized steaks come on a sizzling platter and service has a smile.
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Café Cardosi
Stylishly decked out in warm colours and a trendy, minimalist décor, Cardosi pumps out decent coffee, salads, light hot meals and sandwiches. The decadent home-baked cakes are a standout, but the best thing about this joint is people-watching, both inside and on the busy street outside.
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Ullapool Museum
Housed in a converted Telford Parliamentary church, this museum relates the pre-, natural and social history of the town and Lochbroom area, with a particular focus on the emigration to Nova Scotia and other places. There’s also a genealogy section if you want to trace your Scottish roots.
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Ceilidh Place
The restaurant at the Ceilidh Place serves up inventive dishes catering for most palates. It was a little disappointing last time we visited but the bar is still a great place, with a cosy atmosphere, outdoor seating, good wines by the glass and regular live music and events.
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Red Pepper Restaurant
A step up again in the local dining scene. A simple dining room with lots of wood, good lighting and, most importantly, well-prepared food with generous portions and lots of local produce. Try the smoked chicken and spinach linguine followed by homemade cheesecake.
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Calum’s Seal Trips
Calum’s Seal Trips runs seal-watching cruises – there are swarms of the slippery fellas just outside the harbour and the trip comes with an excellent commentary. Trips leave daily at 10am, noon, 2pm and 4pm. You may even spot otters or even dolphins.
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Gairloch Marine Cruises
Cruises run from the Marine Wildlife Centre up to three times daily (weather permitting) from Easter to October; during the two-hour trips you may see basking sharks, porpoises and minke whales.
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Seaforth
Family-friendly and always packed, this big establishment in the heart of town does good-value bar meals and takeaway fish and chips downstairs, and pricier but more peaceful bistro fare upstairs, with serene harbour views.
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