Things to do in Lewis (Leodhais)
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Callanish Standing Stones
The Callanish Standing Stones, 15 miles west of Stornoway on the A858 road, form one of the most complete stone circles in Britain and are one of the most atmospheric prehistoric sites anywhere. Its ageless mystery, impressive scale and undeniable beauty leave a lasting impression. Sited on a wild and secluded promontory overlooking Loch Roag, 13 large stones of beautifully banded gneiss are arranged, as if in worship, around a 4.5m-tall central monolith. Some 40 smaller stones radiate from the circle in the shape of a cross, with the remains of a chambered tomb at the centre. Dating from 3800 to 5000 years ago, the stones are roughly contemporary with the pyramids of Egy…
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Arnol Blackhouse
One of Scotland’s most evocative historic buildings, the Arnol Blackhouse is not so much a museum as a perfectly preserved fragment of a lost world. Built in 1885, this traditional blackhouse – a combined byre, barn and home – was inhabited until 1964 and has not been changed since the last inhabitant moved out. The staff faithfully rekindle the central peat fire every morning so you can experience the distinctive peat-reek; there’s no chimney, and the smoke finds its own way out through the turf roof, windows and door – spend too long inside and you might feel like you’ve been kippered! The museum is just off the A858, about 3 miles west of Barvas.
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Gallan Head Hotel
If you fancy dining or staying somewhere really unusual, head to the Gallan Head Hotel, possibly the most remote fine-dining restaurant in Europe. It’s housed in a converted, pine-clad military prefab that’s perched above a wild, cliff-bound Atlantic cove 3 miles north of Timsgarry. The food is superb – local seafood, lamb and venison expertly prepared – and the setting unique. Booking is recommended. If you want to stay the night, there are five beautifully refurbished double rooms (from £35 per person).
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Bonaventure
Bonaventureis the most remote French restaurant in Europe. It’s housed in a converted, pine-clad military prefab that’s perched above a wild, cliff-bound Atlantic cove 3 miles north of Timsgarry. The food is superb – local seafood, lamb and venison prepared by the resident French chef/owner – and the setting unique. Booking is essential. If you want to stay the night, there are three comfy double rooms (from £25 per person).
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Lewis Castle
The Baronial mansion across the harbour was built in the 1840s for the Matheson family, then owners of Lewis. It was gifted to the community by Lord Leverhulme in 1923 and was home to the local college for 40 years, but has lain empty since 1997 (the college now occupies modern buildings in the castle grounds); it is now slated for development as a museum and hotel. The beautiful grounds are open to the public and host the Hebridean Celtic Festival.
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Digby Chick
A modern restaurant that dishes up bistro cuisine such as haddock and chips, sesame-glazed pork belly or garlic-roasted mushroom with duck-egg salad at lunchtime, the Digby Chick metamorphoses into a candlelit gourmet restaurant in the evening, serving dishes such as grilled langoustines, seared scallops, roast lamb and steak. You can get a two-course lunch for £10 (11.30am to 2pm), and a three-course dinner for £20 (5.30pm to 6.30pm only).
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Iron Age House
In 1996 archaeologists excavated an entire Iron Age village at the head of Bosta beach. Afterwards, the village was reburied for protection, but a reconstruction of an Iron Age house now sits nearby. Stand around the peat fire, above which strips of mutton are being smoked, while the custodian explains the domestic arrangements – truly fascinating, and well worth the trip.
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Sea Trek
Runs two-hour boat trips to spot seals and nesting seabirds, and more adventurous, all-day trips (£90 per person; two per month, June and July only) in a high-speed RIB to the Flannan Isles. There’s also a 12-hour round trip to remote St Kilda (£180, once or twice weekly, May to September, weather permitting).
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Park Guest House Restaurant
The restaurant at the Park Guest House specialises in Scottish seafood, beef and game (plus one or two vegetarian dishes), simply prepared, allowing the flavour of the food to speak for itself. It offers a good-value, three-course dinner for £16.50 between 5pm and 6.30pm.
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Thai Café
Here’s a surprise – authentic, inexpensive Thai food in the heart of Stornoway. This spick-and-span little restaurant has a genuine Thai chef, and serves some of the most delicious, best-value Asian food in the Hebrides. If you can’t get a table, it does takeaway too.
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An Lanntair Art Centre Café
The stylish and family-friendly restaurant at the art centre serves a broad range of freshly prepared dishes, from tasty bacon rolls at breakfast, to burgers, baguettes or mince and tatties for lunch, and Thai curry, beef-and-Guinness pie or nut roast for dinner.
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An Lanntair Art Centre
The modern, purpose-built An Lanntair Art Centre, complete with art gallery, theatre, cinema and restaurant, is the centre of the town’s cultural life; it hosts changing exhibitions of contemporary art and is a good source of information on cultural events.
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Calanais Visitor Centre
The Calanais Visitor Centre is a tour de force of discreet design. Inside is a small exhibition that speculates on the origins and purpose of the stones, and an excellent café (snacks £1 to £5).
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Museum nan Eilean
This museum strings together a loose history of the Outer Hebrides from the earliest human settlements some 9000 years ago to the 20th century, exploring traditional island life and the changes inflicted by progress and technology.
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Tigh Mealros
Tigh Mealros, a private family home set in a sculpture garden, offers a tasty à la carte menu featuring seafood, steak and vegetarian dishes, including not-to-be-missed local scallops. Bookings are essential.
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St Columba’s Church
The roofless ruin of the 14th-century St Columba’s Church, 4 miles east of town on the Eye peninsula, features the grave slabs of Roderick McLeod, 7th clan chief (around 1498), and his daughter (1503).
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Doune Broch Centre
The tiny, turf-roofed Doune Broch Centre has interpretative displays and exhibitions about the history of the broch and the life of the people who lived there.
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Lewis Loom Centre
This centre houses an exhibition on the history of Harris Tweed; the 40-minute guided tour (£2.50 extra) includes spinning and weaving demonstrations.
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Blackhouse Museum
The Blackhouse Museum is a traditional 1955 blackhouse with displays on the village’s history.
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HS-1 Cafe-Bar
Bright, brash and young at heart, this cafe-bar dishes up hearty bar meals – fajitas, steaks and nachos – as well as healthier stuff like baked potatoes and tortilla wraps. There's also a kids' menu.
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Stornoway Balti House
Most restaurants in Stornoway are closed on Sundays. This is one of the few options for a sit-down meal.
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Sandwick Rd Petrol Station
The only shop in town that’s open on a Sunday (from 10am to 4pm); the Sunday papers arrive around 2pm.
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