Things to do in Kirkwall
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St Magnus Cathedral
Founded in 1137 and built out of local red sandstone and yellow Eday stone, fabulous St Magnus Cathedral is Kirkwall’s centrepiece. The powerful atmosphere of an ancient faith pervades the impressive interior. During summer, 40-minute tours of the cathedral’s upper levels start at 11am and 2pm on Tuesday and Thursday and cost £6 per person.
Earl Rognvald Brusason commissioned the cathedral in the name of his martyred uncle, Magnus Erlendsson, who was killed by Earl Hakon Paulsson on Egilsay in 1117. Work began in 1137, but the building is actually the result of 300 years of construction and alteration. The bones of St Magnus and St Rognvald are interred in the rectan…
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Highland Park Distillery
Among Scotland’s more respected whiskymakers, this distillery, where they malt their own barley, is great to visit. You can see the barley and the peat kiln used to dry it on the excellent, well-informed hour-long tour (hourly when open, and weekdays at 2pm in winter).
The standard 12-year-old is a soft, balanced malt, great for whisky novices and aficionados alike; the 18-year-old is among the world’s finest drams. These and others can be tasted on more specialised tours (£15), which you can prearrange.
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Tankerness House & Orkney Museum
This fine restored merchant’s house gives an intriguing glimpse into Orkney’s archaeological treasure chest, starting from the first settlers, who arrived over 5000 years ago. Exhibits include Pictish stones, ‘bone’ pins and Iron Age jewellery. The highlight is the photo archive downstairs, which offers snapshots of a technologically distant past. Keep an eye out for the temporary exhibitions.
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Kirkwall Hotel
This grand old hotel on the waterfront is one of Kirkwall’s best places to dine. The elegant bar and eating area packs out; it’s one of Kirkwall’s favourite spots for an evening out with the clan. There’s a fairly standard pub-food list that’s complemented by a seasonal menu featuring local seafood and meat – the lamb is delicious.
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Reel
Part music shop and part cafe, Kirkwall’s best coffee-stop sits alongside St Magnus Cathedral, and bravely puts tables outside at the slightest threat of sunshine. It’s a relaxed spot that’s good for morning-after debriefing, as well as lunchtime panini and musically named sandwiches (along with their cheese one: Skara Brie). It’s a centre for local folk musicians, with regular evening sessions.
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Helgi’s
There’s a traditional cosiness about this place, but the decor has moved beyond the time-honoured beer-soaked carpet to a comfortable contemporary slate floor and quotes from the Orkneyinga Saga plastering the walls. It’s more find-a-table than jostle-at-the-bar and serves cheerful comfort food. Take your pint upstairs for quiet harbour contemplation.
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Orkney Museum
Opposite St Magnus Cathedral, in a former merchant’s house, is this labyrinthine display. It has an overview of Orcadian history and prehistory, including Pictish carvings and a display on the Ba’. Most engaging are the last rooms, covering 19th- and 20th-century social history; the earlier sections could do with a bit of a facelift (but then again, it’s free).
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Earl's Palace
Across the road from the Bishop's Palace is the ruin of the Earl’s Palace, built by the tyrant Earl Patrick Stewart in 1600 (though the earl ran out of money and the palace was never completed). It's said to be the finest example of French-Renaissance architecture in Scotland.
Both palaces were repossessed by Bishop James Law in 1615 and the earl and his son were publicly executed. Remarkably, the despotic Patrick was found to be so ignorant that he was unable to recite even the Lord’s Prayer; his execution had to be delayed by a day while priests taught him the words.
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Dil Se
Upbeat and inventive, this main-street subcontinental choice tries to steer Orcadians away from the clichéd curry classics in favour of baltis – the spinach one is fabulous – and other creations. The late opening means you can enjoy those long summer evenings outdoors and not go hungry at the end of them.
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Shore
This popular harbourside eatery brings the gastropub concept to Kirkwall, offering bar meals combined with more adventurous fare in the restaurant section. It’s a little hit-and-miss, but the local chefs are assured when it comes to the sea – monkfish is always a good bet.
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Bothy Bar
In the Albert Hotel, the Bothy looks very smart these days with its modish floor and black-and-white photos of old-time Orcadian farming, but its low tables provide the customary cheer and sustaining food: think sausages, haddock and stews – good pub grub.
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Bishop's Palace
The Bishop's Palace was built in the mid-12th century to provide comfortable lodgings for Bishop William the Old. The floors have collapsed but the outer walls are remarkably intact, and you can climb Bishop Reid’s Tower, added in the 16th century, for wonderful views of the cathedral. On the outside of the tower is a small statue of Earl Rognvald.
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Orkney Wine Company
The Orkney Wine Company produces handmade wines made from berries, flowers and vegetables, all naturally fermented. Get stuck into some strawberry-rhubarb wine or carrot-and-malt-whisky liqueur – unusual flavours but surprisingly addictive.
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Peppermill Deli
The best place in town to grab a takeaway lunch: the selection of fillings for paninis, baguettes, wraps and toasties is almost limitless. It’s also numero uno for coffee and you can grab smoked seafoods and cheeses here for picnics.
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Torvhaug
Style cats slink into the ultracool Torvhaug with its sleek, dark leather and moody red lighting in the bar downstairs and club with DJs upstairs. Shadowy nooks are good on a stormy night –it has a real nightspot feel about it.
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Fusion Nightclub
A rocking club catering to most musical tastes – from retro and cheesy chart numbers to soul, funk and hip-hop. Local DJs also spin the latest dance tunes and the club sometimes hosts live gigs. The dress code is smart casual.
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Busters Diner
A perpetually busy, American-style diner churning out generous portions of hot dogs, pizza and burgers, and Tex-Mex such as enchiladas and tacos. Busters is popular with the younger crowd.
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Sabhal Mór Ostaig
Offers courses in Gaelic language, song, piping and the fiddle. Courses cost from £140 per week plus accommodation.
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Longship
The Longship sells Orkney-made crafts and gifts and exquisite designer jewellery.
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Longship
Try The Longship for Orkney-made crafts and gifts, and exquisite designer jewellery.
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Somerfield Supermarket
Somerfield supermarket is the best place to stock up on provisions.
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St Magnus Café
Old-fashioned food hall serving cheap, honest food such as toasties and bacon rolls.
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Earl's Palace & Bishop's Palace
Near the cathedral, these two ruined palaces are worth poking around. The better of the two, Earl's Palace, was once known as the finest example of French Renaissance architecture in Scotland. One room features an interesting history of its builder, Earl Patrick Stewart, who was executed in Edinburgh for treason. He started construction in about 1600, but he ran out of money and it was never completed.
The Bishop's Palace was built in the mid-12th century to provide comfortable lodgings for Bishop William the Old. There's a good view of the cathedral from the tower, and a plaque showing the different phases of the cathedral's construction.
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