Housed on the top floor of a converted seamen’s mission, the Waterfront’s stylish, unfussy decor in burgundy and brown, with dark wooden furniture, does little to distract from the superb seafood freshly landed at the quay just a few metres away. The menu ranges from classic haddock and chips to fresh oysters, scallops and langoustines.

The lunch and early evening menu (5.30pm to 6.45pm) offers two courses for £10. Best to book for dinner.