The road from Tobermory west to Calgary cuts inland, leaving most of Mull's north coast wild and inaccessible. It continues through the settlement of Dervaig to the beach at Calgary. From here onwards you are treated to spectacular coastal views; it's worth doing the route in reverse from Grunart for the best vistas.
Ulva, meaning ‘Wolf’s Island’ in Norse, is a privately owned island on the west coast of Mull. A peaceful place to escape the crowds thronging Mull in the summer, it has good walking and off-road-biking, a 9th-century Viking fort, and an old chapel with a graveyard. It is linked by a bridge to the even more remote Isle of Gometra.
The road from Craignure to Fionnphort climbs through wild and desolate scenery before reaching the southwestern part of the island, which consists of a long peninsula called the Ross of Mull. The Ross has a spectacular south coast lined with black basalt cliffs that give way further west to white-sand beaches and pink granite crags.
Craignure & Around
There's not much to see at Craignure, but three miles south is Duart Castle, the ancestral seat of the Maclean clan, enjoying a spectacular position on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Sound of Mull. Originally built in the 13th century, it was abandoned for 160 years before a 1912 restoration.
The central part of the island, between the Craignure–Fionnphort road and the narrow isthmus between Salen and Gruline, contains the island's highest peak, Ben More (966m) and some of its wildest scenery. In tiny Gruline is the mausoleum of Lachlan Macquarie, enlightened fifth governor of New South Wales (Australia) and a Mull native.