The road from Tobermory west to Calgary cuts inland, leaving most of the north coast of Mull wild and inaccessible. Just outside Tobermory a long, single-track road leads north for 4 miles to majestic Glengorm Castle with views across the sea to Ardnamurchan, Rum and the Outer Hebrides.
Isle of Ulva
Ulva, meaning ‘Wolf’s Island’ in Norse, is a privately owned island on the west coast of Mull. A peaceful place to escape the crowds thronging Mull in the summer, it has good walking and off-road-biking, a 9th-century Viking fort, and an old chapel with a graveyard. It is linked by a bridge to the even more remote Isle of Gometra.
The road from Craignure to Fionnphort climbs through some wild and desolate scenery before reaching the southwestern part of the island, which consists of a long peninsula called the Ross of Mull. The Ross has a spectacular south coast lined with black basalt cliffs that give way further west to white-sand beaches and pink granite crags.
Craignure & Around
There's not much to see at Craignure other than the ferry terminal and the hotel, so turn left and drive or cycle the 3 miles to Duart Castle, a formidable fortress dominating the Sound of Mull (you can't miss it as you approach Craignure by ferry). The seat of the Clan Maclean, this is one of the oldest inhabited castles in Scotland – the central keep was built in 1360.
The central part of the island, between the Craignure–Fionnphort road and the narrow isthmus between Salen and Gruline, contains the island's highest peak, Ben More (966m) and some of its wildest scenery. The narrow B8035 road along the southern shore of Loch na Keal squeezes past some impressive cliffs before cutting south towards Loch Scridain.