Things to do in Fife
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British Golf Museum
The British Golf Museum has an extraordinarily comprehensive overview of the history and development of the game and the role of St Andrews in it. Favourite fact: bad players were formerly known as ‘foozlers’. Interactive panels allow you to relive former British Opens (watch Paul Azinger snapping his putter in frustration), and there’s a large collection of memorabilia from Open winners both male and female.
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Doll’s House
With its high-backed chairs, bright colours and creaky wooden floor, the Doll’s House blends a Victorian child’s bedroom with modern stylings. The result is a surprising warmth and no pretensions. The menu makes the most of local fish and other Scottish produce, and the two-course lunch for £6.95 is unbeatable value. The early-evening two-course deal for £12.95 isn’t bad either.
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St Andrews Old Course
Everyone knows that St Andrews is the home of golf, but few people realise that anyone can play on the Old Course. Although it lies beside the exclusive, all-male (female waiters are, unsurprisingly, allowed) Royal & Ancient Golf Club, it's a public course and not owned by the club. If you baulk at the green fees, stroll the Old Course in the evening instead.
The trust runs frequent guided walks of the Old Course; these take half an hour and will take you to famous landmarks like the Swilcan Bridge and the Road Hole bunker. If you play on a windy day, expect those scores to balloon: Nick Faldo famously stated that when it blows, 'even the seagulls walk'.
Advance bookings …
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Falkland Palace
Rising majestically out of the town centre and dominating the skyline is the outstanding 16th-century Falkland Palace, a country residence of the Stuart monarchs. Mary, Queen of Scots is said to have spent the happiest days of her life ‘playing the country girl in the woods and parks’ at Falkland. The palace was built between 1501 and 1541 to replace a castle dating from the 12th century; French and Scottish craftspeople were employed to create a masterpiece of Scottish Gothic architecture. The King’s bedchamber and the chapel, with its beautiful painted ceiling, have both been restored. Don’t miss the prodigious 17th-century Flemish hunting tapestries in the hall. One fe…
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Old Course
Golf has been played at St Andrews since the 15th century, and by 1457 it was apparently so popular that James II had to ban it because it was interfering with his troops' archery practice. Few people realise that anyone can play the Old Course, the world's most famous golf course. Although it lies beside the exclusive, all-male Royal & Ancient Golf Club, the Old Course is a public course and is not owned by the club.
Getting a tee-off time is - literally - something of a lottery. Unless you book months in advance, the only chance you have of playing here is by entering a ballot before 14:00 on the day before you wish to play. Be warned that applications by ballot are nor…
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Scotland’s Secret Bunker
Three miles north of Anstruther, off the B9131 to St Andrews, is Scotland’s Secret Bunker. This fascinating Cold War relic was to be one of Britain’s underground command centres and a home for Scots leaders in the event of nuclear war. Hidden 30m underground and surrounded by nearly 5m of reinforced concrete are the austere operation rooms, communication centre and dormitories. It’s very authentic and uses artefacts from the period, which make for an absorbing exploration. The Scottish Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament (CND) has an exhibit, bringing home the realities of Britain’s current nuclear Trident policy. The bunker is a gripping experience and highly recommended.…
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St Andrews Castle
Not far from the cathedral and with dramatic coastline views, the castle is mainly in ruins, but the site itself is evocative. It was founded around 1200 as the bishop's fortified home. After the execution of Protestant reformers in 1545, other reformers retaliated by murdering Cardinal Beaton and taking over the castle. They spent almost a year holed up, during which they and their attackers dug a complex of siege tunnels, said to be the best surviving example of castle-siege engineering in Europe; you can walk (or stoop) along their damp mossy lengths. A tourist office gives a good audiovisual introduction and has a small collection of Pictish stones.
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St Andrews Cathedral
The ruins of this cathedral are all that's left of one of Britain's most magnificent medieval buildings. You can appreciate the scale and majesty of the edifice from the small sections that remain standing. Although founded in 1160, it was not consecrated until 1318, but stood as the focus of this important pilgrimage centre until 1559 when it was pillaged during the Reformation.
St Andrew's supposed bones lie under the altar; until the cathedral was built, they had been enshrined in the nearby Church of St Regulus (Rule). All that remains of this church is St Rule's Tower, worth the climb for the view across St Andrews. The tourist office includes a museum with a collecti…
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Fife Coastal Path
The tourist office has a list of local walks and also sells OS maps. The Fife Coastal Path, stretching from the Forth Road Bridge to the Tay Bridge (Dundee) – a distance of 78 miles – is a wonderful long-distance walk, but the section between St Andrews and just north of Crail is recommended for experienced walkers (particularly the section between St Andrews and Boarhills), as the path is not as clearly defined and includes tidal and rough terrain. The tourist office has a detailed map.
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St Fillan’s Cave
Just a short stroll from Anstruther, Pittenweem is now the main fishing port on the East Neuk coast. The village name means ‘place of the cave’, referring to St Fillan’s Cave in Cove Wynd, which was used as a chapel by a 7th-century missionary. The saint reputedly possessed miraculous powers – apparently, when he wrote his sermons in the dark cave, his arm would throw light on his work by emitting a luminous glow. The cave is protected by a locked gate, but a key is available from a nearby house.
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Culross Palace
Culross Palace is more a large house than a palace, and features extraordinary decorative painted woodwork, barrel-vaulted ceilings and an interior largely unchanged since the early 17th century. It’s dark and spooky inside on an overcast day. The Town House (tourist office downstairs) and the Study, also completed in the early 17th century, are open to the public (via guided tour included in palace admission), but the other NTS properties can only be viewed from the outside.
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Aikman’s – the Cellar Bar
Aikman’s – The Cellar Bar Want to get away from clipped accents and enjoy a real beer or two? Any bar that has spent 19 years in the CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) Good Beer Guide is all right by us. Here you’ll find the best selection of real ales in town and a dimly lit cellar bar to enjoy them in. It’s worn around the edges (and in the middle too), but geez the beer is good. An antithesis to the more prissy bars in town.
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May Princess
The five-hour trip to the island on the May Princess, including two to three hours ashore, sails from three to seven times weekly (weather permitting) from mid-April to September (daily July to September). You can make reservations and buy tickets at the harbour kiosk near the museum at least an hour before departure. Departure times vary depending on the tide – check times for the coming week or so by calling, or check the website.
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Kellie Castle
A magnificent example of Lowland Scottish domestic architecture, Kellie Castle has creaky floors, crooked little doorways and some marvellous works of art, giving it an air of authenticity. It’s set in a beautiful garden, and many rooms contain superb plasterwork, the Vine room being the most exquisite. The original part of the building dates from 1360; it was enlarged to its present dimensions around 1606.
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Kirkcaldy Museum & Art Gallery
A short walk east from the train and bus stations, you’ll find the Kirkcaldy Museum & Art Gallery, which combines historical accounts with contemporary exhibits. The kids will have a ball as there are plenty of hands-on attractions. There’s also an impressive collection of Scottish paintings from the 18th to the 20th century, including work from the Scottish Colourists and the Glasgow Boys.
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Byre Theatre Bistro
A happy, buzzy spot with comfy couches, works of art on the wall and a well-developed menu that encompasses some delicious fusion cooking. Lunchtime sandwiches come with interesting fillings, such as hummus and red pepper. Dinner gets more sophisticated, featuring dishes such as seared tuna steak on sultana-and-nutmeg couscous with smoked-tomato dressing.
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Seafood Restaurant
The Seafood Restaurant occupies a stylish glass-walled room, built out over the sea, with plush navy carpet, crisp white linen, an open kitchen and panoramic views of St Andrews Bay. It offers top seafood and an excellent wine list, and has won a clutch of awards. Look out for its special winter deal – three-course lunch for £15, or dinner for £20.
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Scottish Fisheries Museum
The displays at the excellent Scottish Fisheries Museum include the Zulu Gallery, which houses the huge, partly restored hull of a traditional Zulu-class fishing boat, redolent with the scent of tar and timber. Afloat in the harbour outside the museum lies the Reaper, a fully restored Fifie-class fishing boat built in 1902.
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St Monans Heritage Collection
St Monans Heritage Collection, on the harbour, is a wonderful small gallery devoted to the history of the St Monans’ fishing industry through a collection of 20th-century black-and-white photos and several artefacts. Most of the photos were taken by a local photographer and the collection changes regularly.
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Zest
Serving toasties, paninis and filled rolls along with a good coffee selection, this slick place is popular with students. French doors opening onto the street make it a great spot for people-watching on a breezy summer day. The juices and smoothies here are great, and priced very fairly.
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Grill House
This cheerful, sometimes boisterous restaurant offers something for every taste and bank balance, with a big selection ranging from Mexican, pizza and pasta to char-grilled salmon and quality steaks. The upbeat atmosphere and service are pluses, as is the £5 lunchtime deal.
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Heron Bistro
Drop into Heron Bistro for a snack or meal. Dressed crab and homemade smoked mackerel pâté feature on the menu, and you dine among local works of art that inject some real colour into this pretty harbour town – good for a browse, and everything is for sale.
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Zizzi
Beloved of local students, this Italian eatery has atmosphere without the tack. Rather than Mona Lisas, moribund love songs and phallic pepper grinders, it’s got contemporary decor, an open kitchen, a chatty buzz and fast service. The food won’t wow but it will satisfy.
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Aberdour Castle
Long a residence of the Douglases of Morton, the stately structure exhibits several architectural phases; it’s worth purchasing the guidebook to better comprehend what you see. Most charming of all is the elaborate doocot (dovecote) at the bottom of the garden.
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Dreel Tavern
This charming old pub on the banks of the Dreel Burn has bucket-loads of character and serves reliably tasty bar meals, with excellent handwritten daily specials. Chow down in the outdoor beer garden in summer. There are also some top-quality cask ales here.
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