Things to do in East Neuk
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Scotland’s Secret Bunker
Three miles north of Anstruther, off the B9131 to St Andrews, is Scotland’s Secret Bunker. This fascinating Cold War relic was to be one of Britain’s underground command centres and a home for Scots leaders in the event of nuclear war. Hidden 30m underground and surrounded by nearly 5m of reinforced concrete are the austere operation rooms, communication centre and dormitories. It’s very authentic and uses artefacts from the period, which make for an absorbing exploration. The Scottish Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament (CND) has an exhibit, bringing home the realities of Britain’s current nuclear Trident policy. The bunker is a gripping experience and highly recommended.…
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St Fillan’s Cave
Just a short stroll from Anstruther, Pittenweem is now the main fishing port on the East Neuk coast. The village name means ‘place of the cave’, referring to St Fillan’s Cave in Cove Wynd, which was used as a chapel by a 7th-century missionary. The saint reputedly possessed miraculous powers – apparently, when he wrote his sermons in the dark cave, his arm would throw light on his work by emitting a luminous glow. The cave is protected by a locked gate, but a key is available from a nearby house.
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May Princess
The five-hour trip to the island on the May Princess, including two to three hours ashore, sails from three to seven times weekly (weather permitting) from mid-April to September (daily July to September). You can make reservations and buy tickets at the harbour kiosk near the museum at least an hour before departure. Departure times vary depending on the tide – check times for the coming week or so by calling, or check the website.
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Kellie Castle
A magnificent example of Lowland Scottish domestic architecture, Kellie Castle has creaky floors, crooked little doorways and some marvellous works of art, giving it an air of authenticity. It’s set in a beautiful garden, and many rooms contain superb plasterwork, the Vine room being the most exquisite. The original part of the building dates from 1360; it was enlarged to its present dimensions around 1606.
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Scottish Fisheries Museum
The displays at the excellent Scottish Fisheries Museum include the Zulu Gallery, which houses the huge, partly restored hull of a traditional Zulu-class fishing boat, redolent with the scent of tar and timber. Afloat in the harbour outside the museum lies the Reaper, a fully restored Fifie-class fishing boat built in 1902.
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St Monans Heritage Collection
St Monans Heritage Collection, on the harbour, is a wonderful small gallery devoted to the history of the St Monans’ fishing industry through a collection of 20th-century black-and-white photos and several artefacts. Most of the photos were taken by a local photographer and the collection changes regularly.
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Heron Bistro
Drop into Heron Bistro for a snack or meal. Dressed crab and homemade smoked mackerel pâté feature on the menu, and you dine among local works of art that inject some real colour into this pretty harbour town – good for a browse, and everything is for sale.
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Dreel Tavern
This charming old pub on the banks of the Dreel Burn has bucket-loads of character and serves reliably tasty bar meals, with excellent handwritten daily specials. Chow down in the outdoor beer garden in summer. There are also some top-quality cask ales here.
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Elie Watersports
Elie Watersports, on the harbour at Elie, hires out windsurfers (per two hours £30), sailing dinghies (Lasers/Wayfarers per hour £18/22), canoes (per hour £10) and mountain bikes (per day £12), and provides instruction as well.
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Cellar Restaurant
Tucked away in an alley behind the museum, the Cellar is famous for its seafood and fine wines. Try the local crab, lobster or whatever delicacies they’ve brought in that day. Inside it’s elegant and upmarket. Advance bookings are essential.
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Ship Inn
Ship Inn, down by Elie harbour, is a pleasant and popular place for a bar lunch. Seafood and Asian dishes feature on the menu and, on a sunny day, you can tuck-in at an outside table overlooking the wide sweep of the bay.
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Seafood Restaurant
Comfortable, but classy, fishy stalwart on the harbour. The menu changes – bouillabaisse, Dover sole, scallops – but just swim with the tide. The menu details the provenance of these sustainable morsels.
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Crail Museum
The village’s history and involvement with the fishing industry is outlined in the Crail Museum, which also offers tourist information.
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Crail Gallery
Crail Gallery is a local gallery with some terrific artists’ impressions of Crail and East Neuk and framed prints of St Andrews.
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Anstruther Fish Bar
Renowned chippie selling classy takes on an old favourite, such as organic Shetland cod, or grilled rainbow trout – with chips, of course.
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Harbour Howff Café
Harbour Howff Café is a community-run cafe promoting healthy eating and serving excellent sandwiches and fresh cakes.
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Wee Chippie
The Anstruther Fish Bar is one of Britain's best chippies, but we – and plenty of locals – reckon this one is even better. The fish is of a very high quality, portions are larger and there's less of a queue too. Eat your catch by the water.
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