Upolu Getting there & around

Getting around

Travelling around 'Upolu by car is easy, but getting around by bus is time-consuming. If travelling on public transport, don't try to visit too many places in a single day. A good rule of thumb is to allow an entire day for each excursion to a point of interest beyond the environs of Apia.

Car & motorcycle

Car

The sealed Main Coast Rd follows the coast all the way around the island of 'Upolu. Three good cross-island roads pass over the east-west central ridge and divide the island roughly into quarters. The central one begins in Apia at Falealili St before becoming The Cross Island Rd further south. There's another Cross Island Rd to the west and the steeper, picturesque Le Mafa Pass Rd in the east. The general quality of these and other roads outside Apia has improved a lot in recent years, but they're still generally narrow with crumbling verges, and lined with dogs, pigs and pedestrians. Some of the side roads to beaches are rough and can get boggy after heavy rain, but in dry weather they can almost all be negotiated in a high-clearance 2WD. If unsure, check with locals regarding road conditions before setting out.

Petrol availability is limited on 'Upolu. We only found one petrol station away from the north coast - it's just north of Lalomanu.

There are numerous car-hire agencies in Apia, so ring around to find the best deal. Prices start at around ST120 per day, with discounts offered for longer-term rentals. Hiring a car in Samoa means being subject to a ST2500 insurance excess (nonreduceable) in the event of any accident that's your fault. Most outfits allow you to put their vehicles on the ferry to Savai'i; but double-check this if you plan to head over there.

Some recommended car-hire companies are as follows:

Blue PacificCar Hire (22668; bluepacific@lesamoa.net) It doesn't have a depot as such, but offers free delivery to all Apia hotels and the airport.

Budget Car Rental (20561, 22191; www.budget.com; ground fl, NPF Bldg, Beach Rd)

Funway Rent-A-Car (22045; www.funwayrentals.ws; Beach Rd)

Juliana's Car Rentals (23009; Mata'utu St)

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Bus & tram

Bus

Buses connect Apia with almost every other part of 'Upolu. They leave from Maketi Fou (the main market) and from the bus area behind the Flea Market. Bus terminals are quite a sight in the late afternoon when their perimeters are jammed with Samoans waiting for a ride home. Just because the bus has left the market, however, doesn't mean you're on your way. Buses will travel between the main market areas and around central Apia as many times as the driver deems necessary to fill the bus, or until he realises that it's no longer economically feasible to waste fuel making the circuit. If he decides that he hasn't inspired sufficient interest in the trip, it is cancelled altogether. Keep in mind that buses tend to begin running early but can stop in the early afternoon, according to the whim of the driver. If you'd like to visit a remote spot (say the Aleipata district) and return the same day, you'll need to get an early start.

All buses prominently display the name of their destination in the front window. To stop a bus, wave your hand and arm, palm down, as the bus approaches. To signal that you'd like to get off the bus, either knock on the ceiling or clap loudly. Fares are paid to the driver. A bus schedule that includes fare information is available from the Samoa Tourism Authority.

Any bus with the sign 'Pasi o le Va'a' or 'Faleolo' in the window will be passing Faleolo Airport and going on to Mulifanua Wharf. If it also says 'Manono-uta' or 'Falelatai', it will be continuing to the Manono ferry dock or to the southwestern end of the island.

In order to reach the Aleipata district at the eastern end of the island, catch the Lalomanu bus, which takes Richardson Rd. If you're heading east along the north coast, take the Falefa, Fagaloa or Lotofaga bus. For any point along the main Cross Island Rd, take either the Si'umu or Salani bus. To get to Togitogiga and O Le Pupu-Pu'e National Park, you'll need to take the Falealili or Salani bus.

Sample fares from Apia include to Robert Louis Stevenson Museum (ST1.20), Falefa (ST2), Faleolo Airport (ST2), Mulifanua Wharf (ST2), Virgin Cove (ST2.30) and Lalomanu (ST4).

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Local transport

Taxi

Taxis can be convenient for day-tripping around 'Upolu; you'll pay around ST30 an hour or ST150 for a full day of sightseeing. Some drivers still submit to a temptation to overcharge, so it pays to know the correct fare. Always agree on a price with the driver before climbing in.

At the time of writing, some sample fares to popular destinations were as follows. From Apia, a taxi to the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum costs ST6, while to the Bahá'í House of Worship costs ST14, to the Manono-uta wharf costs ST42, to Mulifanua Wharf costs ST45 and to Lalomanu costs ST65.

The following taxi companies in Apia are recommended.

City Central Taxis (23600)

Radio Taxi (24432)

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