Things to do in Smolensk
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Assumption Cathedral
Smolensk's big green-and-white working Assumption Cathedral rises at the top of a flight of steps off ul Bolshaya Sovetskaya. A cathedral has stood here since 1101 but this one was built in the late 17th and early 18th centuries; it is one of the earliest examples of the Russo-Greek revival in architecture following the Europeanisation trends of Peter the Great's reign. Topped by five domes, it has a spectacular gilded interior, which was partially damaged by fire during WWII.
According to legend, Napoleon was so impressed that he set a guard to stop his own men from vandalising the cathedral.
Immediately on your left as you enter, an icon of the Virgin is richly encrusted…
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Fortress Walls
Built between 1596 and 1602, the impressive 6.5km-long, 5.5m-thick, 15m-high walls originally had 38 towers, with 17 still standing. The pleasant Central Park of Culture and Rest backs onto a longish southwest stretch of the walls. Overlooking the Spartak Stadium just outside the line of the walls on the west side of the park, the Korolevsky Bastion is a high earth rampart built by the Poles who captured Smolensk in 1611.
It saw heavy fighting in 1654 and 1812. The park has a 26m-high cast-iron monument to the 1812 defenders.
At the foot of the walls (southeast of the Glinka Garden) you'll find an eternal flame memorial to the dead of WWII and the graves of some of the Sov…
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History Museum
Smolensk’s History Museum doubles as a fine-arts museum, displaying a hodgepodge of 18th and 19th century portraiture and 13th-century iconography and graffiti, along with battle maps and Soviet paraphernalia. Particularly interesting are the fragments from the 1812 war, including a French uniform from one of Napoleon’s soldiers.
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Flax Museumhttp://atlas.lonelyplanet.com/ui/merge_pois/new?ids[]=494080&ids[]=1101677
The pink former Church of Trinity Monastery now houses a small Flax Museum. Historically, flax production has been one of Smolensk’s main industries as the moderate climate sustains soil ideal for growing flax. Exhibits here are sparse, but you’ll get an idea of how the process works. Walk around the back to find the entrance.
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Glinka Concert Hall
Attending a concert is the best way to get a look at the reconstructed hall where Glinka once entertained Russian nobility and launched the history of secular art music in Russia. The local orchestra uses balalaikas in lieu of violins and is quite good. Tickets run from R80 to R800, depending on who’s in town; some shows are free.
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Farfalle
A few blocks south of the Glinka Garden, this Italian restaurant strives to play the part, with a painting of Venice along one wall and the occasional aria playing overhead. Though far from authentic (no pasta on the menu!), the decent pizzas and salads provide a nice respite from eggs, mushrooms and bliny. Carlsberg on tap.
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Stary Gorod
If the Brady Bunch were Russian, this is what their basement would look like. Lights fancifully strung along the walls of the various dining rooms don't improve the 1960s den interior, but the cheeseburgers, omelettes and buterbrod (open sandwiches) are passable. Enter through the courtyard.
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Museum of Russian Vodka
The one-room Museum of Russian Vodka gives visitors a brief overview of the drink’s colourful history. Fifteen-minute guided tours (in English or Russian) end at the makeshift bar where you can purchase a glass (or better yet a bottle) of some noteworthy Smolenskiy brands.
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French Café
Brightly lit and friendly, this café serves coffee, small salads, caviar, sandwiches and many opportunities to satisfy your sweet tooth. Some uniquely French dishes are available – frogs’ legs anyone? It’s in the same building as the Hotel Tsentralnaya.
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Konenkov Sculpture Museum
The Konenkov Sculpture Museum contains playful woodworks by Sergei Konenkov; Lenin seems to have been captured in the midst of a ballet manoeuvre. The museum also has steel, bronze and aluminium works from some of the other noted artists who hail from Smolensk.
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Art Gallery
The town’s Art Gallery, south of the fortress walls, has paintings by famous artists such as Rerikh and Ivanov, a good sampling of socialist realism, 14th to 18th century icons and works by Smolensk artists patronised by Princess Maria Tenisheva.
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Dvoinoe Solntse
A surprising find, this place attempts to replicate a traditional Japanese tea house, complete with floor seating, screens and low tables. Waiters spend inordinate amounts of time sitting at your table preparing, smelling and pouring your tea. Sushi is also available.
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Smolenskaya Krepost
Set in the old castle walls, this charming restaurant has plenty of character – from the stained-glass windows to the tiny fireplace and exposed brick walls – with lovely views of the Dnepr. The menu features well-prepared traditional Russian dishes.
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Domino
Though the log-cabin interior borders on kitsch, the food at this popular restaurant is actually quite good. In addition to Russian faves, Domino serves pizzas and salads, and the small front patio that opens in summer is good for a drink. English menu available.
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Wwii Museum
The WWII museum documents the invasion and widespread devastation; it is incredible to realise just how much of old Smolensk is actually reconstruction. A collection of tanks, artillery and a MiG fighter jet are parked behind the museum.
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Vanil
The deep-red walls and wood furnishings of this charming café make a fine setting for conversation, cappuccino and, most importantly, Vanil's desserts. The apple strudel is served warm with vanilla ice cream and drizzled with pine nuts.
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Chocolate Café
With dark wood walls, mirrors and brown leather seating, this place aims for a French bistro atmosphere with a menu that is anything but. Bliny, omelettes, porridge, sushi and pasta are a few of the eclectic range of items on offer.
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Zarya
Facing the Hotel Tsentralnaya, Zarya is an old favourite for its elegant dining room and decent Russian dishes. Shashlyk, steak, salads, pelmeni, open caviar sandwiches and soups round out the menu.
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Gastronom Pushkinsky
Near the Glinka Garden, Gastronom Pushkinsky is a grocery store stocked with fresh bread, cheese, beer, wine and all the other items needed to put together a decent picnic.
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Beer Pub
This watering hole is as no-nonsense as its name, serving only beer at two tables and two stools in the former gatehouse to the building beyond. Located around the corner from Mig 24.
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Russky Dvor
The terrace here overlooking the castle and town is an ideal spot to enjoy some palatable traditional Russian dishes. The high-ceiling castle-like interior is also impressive.
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Kafe Absinthe
Below street level, this multiroom restaurant serves Russian fare in a medieval-inspired setting. Perch, beef stroganoff, caviar and, yes, absinthe are among the offerings.
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Nautilis
A young crowd gathers at this nautically inspired bar with a blue-tiled floor, fish tanks along the walls and a gloomy, cavernous feel to the place.
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Mir Puteshestvii
Near Hotel Tsentralnaya, this travel agent is unusually helpful. Staff can arrange a two to three hour English-language city tour (R250 per person).
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Flax Shop
To get a souvenir of the distinctive local style, visit the unsigned flax shop near the Central Park of Culture and Rest.
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