Things to do in Kursk
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Church of Ascension-Ilinsky
The 1786 Church of Ascension-Ilinsky was used during the Soviet era as a warehouse for the Dom Knigi bookshop, a hulking neoclassical structure placed smack in front of the strawberry-milk-hued, 18th-century church. With the fall of communism in Russia, the books were moved out and the church reopened. When a regional bank was constructed next door in 1997, tinted glass was used to reflect the church, creating the illusion that it is once again part of the main street. Inside, you can see original frescoes by famous icon painter Vasnetsov.
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Assumption Cathedral
At the south end of Krasnaya pl is Kursk's most distinctive building, the domed 1816-28 Assumption Cathedral. The Soviets converted the cathedral into a cinema, but it's recently been restored to its former glory. Behind the greenish-blue walls, you'll find a mix of the lavishly ornate (gilded columns, an enormous chandelier) coupled with even larger paintings depicting scenes from Christ's life.
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Kursk Battle Museum
Around ul Sonina is the two-room Kursk Battle Museum, upstairs in the elaborate red-and-white former House of the Nobles, now the Officers House (Dom Ofitserov). Admission buys you good views over town, documentation and artefacts from the battle, and an enthusiastic former Red Army soldier who will tell you all about it and then some.
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Sergievo-Kazansky Cathedral
A block east of ul Lenina, on a pleasant, tree-lined street, is the fine baroque Sergievo-Kazansky Cathedral, built between 1752 and 1758 and designed by Elizabeth I’s court architect, Rastrelli. The construction was ordered by a wealthy merchant who sought repentance for a murder he committed (more or less in self-defence so the story goes).
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Krasnaya pl
The foot of ul Lenina opens into Krasnaya pl , surrounded by imposing Stalinist buildings - the House of Soviets on the east side, the post office on the west, the Hotel Tsentralnaya on the northwest and the matching city council building on the northeast. At the south end of the square is Kursk's most distinctive building, the domed 1816-28 Assumption Cathedral.
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Dieteticheskoe Café
This cosy cafeé and restaurant makes a lovely spot for a light meal or a drink in the evenings. Dishes include spaghetti, small sandwiches, goulash and zhorenaya riba (smoked fish). As is usual in Russian restaurants, the portions are small, but they are cheap enough so that you can order a few courses without having to run to the ATM.
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Gornitsa
Quiet and colourful place that has recreated a Russian peasant yard inside a Soviet-style hotel. Friendly waitresses in red-fringed dress serve hearty fare: beefsteaks, grilled chicken and baked fish, with salads and potato or egg side dishes to round out the meals.
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Tashir Pizza
Dramatic curtains adorn this casual pizzeria near the main post office. Slices of pizza are served with mayonnaise (instead of tomato sauce) and are sometimes undercooked. In spite of this, it's not a bad place for a bite. Second location on ul Lenina.
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Regional Museum
The small Regional Museum, houses exhibits on the region’s natural and archaeological history, period furnishings from the 19th century and – beyond the red curtains – socialist artwork from the Soviet era.
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Stary Klyon
This pyramid-shaped building houses a disco and bar as well as a few billiard tables. Youthful crowds arrive on weekends for the live music/DJ combo. Nearby are a handful of open-air bars that make for fine people-watching in the summer.
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northern market
The town's two main markets, the central market and the northern market, sell food, produce and clothes (the sort that will make you say, 'So that's where they get it!').
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Kafe Olimpiya
Inside the Hotel Tsentralnaya, this somewhat stately dining room serves big plates of Russian fare. Steaks, salads and calamari are among the popular choices. Friendly wait staff.
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central market
The town's two main markets, the central market and the northern market, sell food, produce and clothes (the sort that will make you say, 'So that's where they get it!').
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Baskin Robbins
For a cold treat on a muggy day (or a frigid one), stop at this well-known ice-cream chain.
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