Russian restaurants in St Petersburg
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A
NEP
Waitresses clad in Red Army khaki, a decor of Soviet regalia and a menu of fun-poking takes on proletariat fare make this communist theme restaurant an amusing if pricey choice. Some English spoken.
reviewed
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Pravda
There is nothing new about a retro Soviet-themed restaurant, but somehow it never grows tired: the propaganda posters, the portraits of Lenin, the Internationale. This so-called ‘art café’ actually promises ‘communist lunches’, which is rarely the object of such nostalgia. But the place is fun, as is the menu of old-fashioned Soviet favourites (and its prices really do hark back to the Soviet period!).
reviewed
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C
Lya Rus
Another kitschy Russian country house, this is a sweet place to sample hearty peasant soups and sip vodka while you watch traditional Russian song and dance. Typical for this type of place, the décor is folksy and the food is filling.
reviewed
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D
Onegin
You have to be in the know to know about Onegin, the hippest of places to see and be seen. Down a small staircase from Sadovaya ul – and barely marked at street level – the restaurant has an interior that is an incredibly over-the-top display of New Russia. Antique and plastic furniture sit side by side, swathed in purple velvet and overhung by crystal chandeliers. Even with all this excess, the menu really delivers. Look out for decadent Russian dishes such as duck fillet with glazed forest berries in grape sauce or marble steak with foie gras and fresh asparagus. Reservations are recommended.
reviewed
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E
Stolle - City Centre
This is one of St Petersburg's coolest places to come for coffee, although you'd be a fool to leave without sampling one of its magnificent pirogi (pies). In fact, the entire menu is excellent, but the pies are irresistible. A 'stolle' is a traditional Saxon Christmas cake: the selection of sweets and savouries sits on the counter, fresh from the oven. It may be difficult to decide (mushroom or meat; apricot or apple?) but you really can't go wrong.
This outlet on Konyushennaya pl is one of the city's largest, with a separate nonsmoking room.
reviewed
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F
Orient Express
All aboard for a taste of the romance, mystery and history of the legendary train line. Decked out like a luxury locomotive, this fun restaurant features booths that resemble train cabins and all the railway paraphernalia you can imagine. It’s an absolute must for train spotters and anybody who is about to board the Trans-Siberian. Rest assured, you won’t get food like this once on board the real thing, so enjoy the Eastern-influenced menu, especially the selection of meats grilled over hot coals.
reviewed
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G
Yolki Palki
All visitors to Rostov should eat at least once at this amazing mix of indoor theme park and restaurant. Sprightly waiters wear twee national costumes while customers are seated in forest glades under spreading oak trees and woven wooden fencing. There’s a buffet for picking and choosing. Sample the bliny, brave the zalivnoe (jellied fish) and Ukrainian salo (cured pig fat), slurp the okroshka (cold soup) and wash it all down with a cranberry juice or kvas.
reviewed
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H
Old Customs House
This restaurant is not actually set in the old customs house, although it is around the corner in the historic building that houses St Petersburg’s first museum (Kunstkamera). Costume-clad doormen and mannequins posing as customs officials ensure that you don’t mistake the theme of this otherwise classy restaurant. Famous for its wine list and excellent food, this restaurant is where you will see St Petersburg’s uppermost classes partaking of filet mignon and caviar crepes.
reviewed
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I
Backstage
The Mariinsky’s official restaurant is tucked away rather out of sight on one corner of Teatralnaya pl. The décor is stage-worthy, and the food is excellent. Service sometimes comes with a sniff, but that somehow befits an institution so celebrated as the Mariinsky. Apparently, famous opera singers and ballet dancers are welcome to write all over the walls. Probably best to refrain unless you count yourself among the stars.
reviewed
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J
Kalinka Malinka
Nostalgia meets Russian MTV at this trendy new Soviet theme café that celebrates the diverse cuisine of all the former Soviet Republics minus the knick-knackery that plagues other retro eateries. Enjoy a Eurasian feast of Ukrainian serniki (cottage cheese fritters), Georgian khachapuri and Kazakh beshparmak (horse meat and noodles) washed down with Moldovan wines or Russian beer. Enter from ul Dzerzhinskogo.
reviewed
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K
Sadko
Serving all the Russian favourites, this impressive restaurant’s décor applies traditional floral designs to a slick contemporary style. It has a great children’s room and is ideal as a pre– or post–Mariinsky Theatre dining option. They make their own piroggis (pies) and cranberry mors. The waiters, many of them music students at the local conservatory, give impromptu vocal performances.
reviewed
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Old Countryside
This tiny, family-run hideaway is well off the beaten track, but its intimate atmosphere and delectable food are one-of-a-kind. Try old Russian recipes such as beef in plum and nut sauce or ham in oranges. The small size of the restaurant guarantees personal service, but reservations are a must. From the metro station, take any tram down ul Savushkina and get off at the third stop.
reviewed
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M
Mechta Molokhovets
Inspired by the cookbook of Yelena Molokhovets, the Russian Mrs Beeton of the 19th century, the menu at this compact, elegant restaurant covers the classics from borsch to beef Stroganov. Their speciality is koulibiaca, a golden pastry pie of either fish or rabbit and cabbage – pre-order or be prepared to wait an hour as they cook it fresh.
reviewed
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N
Fat Frier
Now with branches around the city, this beer hall on the back streets of the Historic Heart provides a fun hideaway for some comfort food and a Baltika beer. The nostalgic communist paraphernalia recalls the days of Leonid Brezhnev, but thankfully the staff do not – there are smiles all round and good service.
reviewed
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O
Leningrad
Occupying a heritage red-brick building, Leningrad offers dining on a grand scale, mixing Soviet high style with new Russian glitz. Their Olivier salad, made with crayfish, is excellent. Come on Friday or Saturday night if you want to join other guests kicking up their heels to the house band.
reviewed
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P
Chekhov
Perfect for imagining yourself a guest at the great author’s dacha, this charming restaurant trades on pre-revolutionary nostalgia. Traditional Russian dishes are prepared with aplomb and can be washed down with homemade flavoured vodkas, fruit juices and kvas (a non-alcoholic beer).
reviewed
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Q
Russky Kitsch
Soviet kitsch is raised to a fine art at this cheeky place. Check out Brezhnev smooching with Castro on the ceiling of the ‘kissing room’ and menus secreted in works by Lenin and Stalin. Most dishes (especially the salad bowl) are fine. Come for a drink and a gawp, if nothing else.
reviewed
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R
Bliny Domik
There’s more than bliny on the menu and it’s all pretty good. This long-running favourite is set up like a country home but isn’t too kitsch. Live piano music (8–10pm from Thursday to Sunday) adds to the atmosphere in the evenings.
reviewed
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S
Olyushka & Russkye Bliny
The students at the nearby university quite rightly swear by these authentic canteens that hark back to the simplicity of Soviet times. Olyushka serves only pelmeni, all handmade, while Russkye Bliny has a fine line of melt-in-the-mouth pancakes.
reviewed
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Tbiliso
Behind the Sytny market this St Petersburg institution has recently been given a sophisticated upgrade to match its top-class Georgian cuisine. Try the home-made cheese, khachapuri (cheese bread) and kharcho (hearty soup).
reviewed
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U
Makarov
Charming place, overlooking the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of our Saviour, serving traditional Russian with a twist in a relaxed setting. There’s a good kids play area at the back and a ping-pong table out front.
reviewed
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V
Pelmeny Bar
Dine with witches and a very dapper wolf at this whimsical dacha - style café specialising in pelmeny (dumplings). It’s a favourite with the naval recruits from the nearby Admiralty.
reviewed
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Schaste
Romantic cherubs are the motif of this charming café-bar, even on the dot-to-dot puzzles that are printed on the placemats. The vaguely Russian food is tasty and their three-course lunch for R250 is a deal.
reviewed
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X
Restoran
The chic minimalist décor provides an ideal setting for a well-presented range of traditional Russian dishes. Offers a good table of appetisers and salads as well as homemade, flavoured vodkas.
reviewed
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Y
Marius Pub
Justly popular, Marius Pub is more of a restaurant than a bar. It serves hearty Russian and European food at all hours, and also does a mean breakfast buffet.
reviewed
