Restaurants in St Petersburg
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NEP
Waitresses clad in Red Army khaki, a decor of Soviet regalia and a menu of fun-poking takes on proletariat fare make this communist theme restaurant an amusing if pricey choice. Some English spoken.
reviewed
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Aquarel
Aquarel combines a wonderful setting with fantastic fusion cuisine. Indeed, this is the place that pioneered fusion cuisine in the city, and the kitchen continues to artfully combine Russian, Mediterranean and Asian elements into some uniquely delicious dishes. This food fest takes place on a slickly decked-out boat, moored on the Neva River, offering amazing views of the façade of the Hermitage and the lights of Birzhevoy most. Unfortunately, service can be snooty and – even worse – slow, which is unacceptable for an otherwise high-class (and high-price) joint. There is a cheaper café on the top floor serving pasta and pizza and other simple fare.
reviewed
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Pravda
There is nothing new about a retro Soviet-themed restaurant, but somehow it never grows tired: the propaganda posters, the portraits of Lenin, the Internationale. This so-called ‘art café’ actually promises ‘communist lunches’, which is rarely the object of such nostalgia. But the place is fun, as is the menu of old-fashioned Soviet favourites (and its prices really do hark back to the Soviet period!).
reviewed
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Kavkaz
Another long-standing favourite, Kavkaz means ‘Caucasus’ and features excellent Georgian fare. It’s a casual affair: the basement digs are not so impressive to look at, but the portions are generous and the food – served on large wooden platters – is consistently delectable. This is the place to experience the legendary Georgian hospitality (and shashlyk and wine etc).
reviewed
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Lya Rus
Another kitschy Russian country house, this is a sweet place to sample hearty peasant soups and sip vodka while you watch traditional Russian song and dance. Typical for this type of place, the décor is folksy and the food is filling.
reviewed
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Zoom Café
Popular boho/student hangout with regularly changing art exhibitions. Serves unfussy tasty European and Russian food; has wi-fi access, a very relaxed ambience and a no-smoking zone.
reviewed
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Restaurant Garçon
New branch for the city’s best-value French restaurant, providing a relaxed Parisienne atmosphere. The chef makes his own foix gras.
reviewed
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Onegin
You have to be in the know to know about Onegin, the hippest of places to see and be seen. Down a small staircase from Sadovaya ul – and barely marked at street level – the restaurant has an interior that is an incredibly over-the-top display of New Russia. Antique and plastic furniture sit side by side, swathed in purple velvet and overhung by crystal chandeliers. Even with all this excess, the menu really delivers. Look out for decadent Russian dishes such as duck fillet with glazed forest berries in grape sauce or marble steak with foie gras and fresh asparagus. Reservations are recommended.
reviewed
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Vox
On a quaint corner of the pedestrian-friendly Stolyarny per and ul Pestelya, Vox has a prime spot for a sidewalk café. It’s a delightful setting to sip a cool drink on a summer afternoon, especially when the Museum of Decorative & Applied Arts has a street exhibition, as it is sometimes prone to do. The interior is equally appealing and very upscale. Dim lighting, white linens and stripped-down décor provide a suitably sexy environment for antipastos, pastas, meats and seafood. This place maintains a cool ambience, despite the constant crowds. Reservations recommended.
reviewed
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Russian Fishing
History has it that this was Prince Menshikov’s favourite fishing ground. The folks at Russian Fishing want you to be able to experience the same joy as the prince, so when you arrive you will be given a rod and some bait and you can (hopefully) catch your own dinner. The pond is stocked with trout, sterlet and other types of sturgeon (but only expert fishers can be picky about their choice); the chef will bake, smoke or grill your catch to order. If you are not up for the fishing adventure, you can order from the menu (and there are some nonfish options).
reviewed
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Stolle - City Centre
This is one of St Petersburg's coolest places to come for coffee, although you'd be a fool to leave without sampling one of its magnificent pirogi (pies). In fact, the entire menu is excellent, but the pies are irresistible. A 'stolle' is a traditional Saxon Christmas cake: the selection of sweets and savouries sits on the counter, fresh from the oven. It may be difficult to decide (mushroom or meat; apricot or apple?) but you really can't go wrong.
This outlet on Konyushennaya pl is one of the city's largest, with a separate nonsmoking room.
reviewed
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U Tyoshi Na Blinakh
‘Auntie’s pancakes’ are being served up in so many locations now that it’s a wonder she’s not dropped dead yet. This cafeteria-style chain is a great place to fill up quickly and cheaply. Besides the tired-looking bliny, you can also sample hot soups, fresh salads and a variety of tasty pre-prepared mains. There are branches at: U Tyoshi na Blinakh; Historic Heart (Malaya Morskaya ul 4/1); Vosstaniya (Zagorodny pr 18; Vladimirskaya); Petrograd Side (Sytninskaya ul 16; Gorkov-skaya)
reviewed
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Crocodile
Service can be slow at this underground hideaway, but the unusual and highly edible food is worth the wait. Look for innovative combinations that produce a delicious effect: mostly European fare with some international flare. The menu offers rich homemade soups, hearty salads that double as main courses, traditional pasta dishes and some excellent, unusual vegetarian options. The interior is almost as eclectic as the menu, but it’s inviting and a bit arty and – again – the overall result is appealing.
reviewed
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Orient Express
All aboard for a taste of the romance, mystery and history of the legendary train line. Decked out like a luxury locomotive, this fun restaurant features booths that resemble train cabins and all the railway paraphernalia you can imagine. It’s an absolute must for train spotters and anybody who is about to board the Trans-Siberian. Rest assured, you won’t get food like this once on board the real thing, so enjoy the Eastern-influenced menu, especially the selection of meats grilled over hot coals.
reviewed
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Yolki Palki
All visitors to Rostov should eat at least once at this amazing mix of indoor theme park and restaurant. Sprightly waiters wear twee national costumes while customers are seated in forest glades under spreading oak trees and woven wooden fencing. There’s a buffet for picking and choosing. Sample the bliny, brave the zalivnoe (jellied fish) and Ukrainian salo (cured pig fat), slurp the okroshka (cold soup) and wash it all down with a cranberry juice or kvas.
reviewed
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Korovabar
In case you could not tell from the Holstein décor, korova means ‘cow’. And this so-called cow-bar milks this theme for all its worth. Cow hides hang from the ceilings and adorn the booths. Yet somehow, it works: the place is way more hip than it is hokey. The sophisticated menu features an excellent selection of steaks, among other things, and an incredible wine list. And if all that black and white has you longing for greener pastures, take a seat on the pleasant porch.
reviewed
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Old Customs House
This restaurant is not actually set in the old customs house, although it is around the corner in the historic building that houses St Petersburg’s first museum (Kunstkamera). Costume-clad doormen and mannequins posing as customs officials ensure that you don’t mistake the theme of this otherwise classy restaurant. Famous for its wine list and excellent food, this restaurant is where you will see St Petersburg’s uppermost classes partaking of filet mignon and caviar crepes.
reviewed
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Le Paris
Sumptuous yet understated, this French restaurant sits just across the Moyka River from the Yusupov Palace. The three rooms include the main wood-panelled dining room and a smaller, simpler wine and cheese tasting room. No matter where you choose to indulge, you will not be disappointed by the excellent French fare and wine list. Apparently, this class act is a favourite with city governor Valentina Matvienko among other local dignitaries. Reservations recommended.
reviewed
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Il Patio
Patio Pizza was one of the first post-Soviet restaurants to gain widespread popularity for its tasty pizza and extensive salad bar, all at prices that were manageable for Olga and Ivan Russian. Branches quickly spread around Moscow, and then across the country. Now this tried-and-true favourite has gone slightly upscale, with a new, more Italian name, and a new, more stylish look. Wood-oven pizzas and fresh salad bars are still the highlights of the menu.
reviewed
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Karavan
Despite the kitschy décor (epitomised by the camel in the corner), Karavan is a superb Central Asian restaurant with a lovely location overlooking the Fontanka River. Open grills line the dining room, giving an optimum view (and scent) of the kebabs that are on the menu. The grilled meats and vegetables are guaranteed to make your mouth water, while the wine list offers some excellent and unusual complements. Service is attentive and efficient.
reviewed
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Seven-Forty
For traditional Jewish home cooking in a delightful, folksy setting, Seven-Forty is worth the trip out of the city centre. Set on two levels, the warm, welcoming interior is scattered with artefacts that may have been scavenged from your Jewish grandmother’s basement. The menu is not kosher, but its carefully crafted cuisine is delicious and different. Seven-Forty can be tricky to reach: take tram 40 or catch a cab from the metro station.
reviewed
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Gin No Taki
In a city awash with wannabe Japanese restaurants, this large and lively operation is one of the most authentic, with a wide range of sushi, sashimi, kebabs, tempura and bento box lunches. Unnervingly, the entire staff greets you very loudly in Japanese as you walk in the door. That exuberance aside, Gin No Taki makes for an excellent Japanese dining experience. Should you be inspired by the cooking, there is a Japanese grocery store next door.
reviewed
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Cheburechnaya
An authentic stolovaya (canteen) that continues to do what it has been doing well for decades. Bypass the sit-down restaurant and head straight into the nondescript cafeteria (on the right), where you can place your order at the cash register. Try the namesake cheburechka, a delicious Georgian meat-stuffed pastry. Take your receipt and pick up your food at the kitchen window for one of the city’s cheapest meal deals.
reviewed
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Backstage
The Mariinsky’s official restaurant is tucked away rather out of sight on one corner of Teatralnaya pl. The décor is stage-worthy, and the food is excellent. Service sometimes comes with a sniff, but that somehow befits an institution so celebrated as the Mariinsky. Apparently, famous opera singers and ballet dancers are welcome to write all over the walls. Probably best to refrain unless you count yourself among the stars.
reviewed
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Kalinka Malinka
Nostalgia meets Russian MTV at this trendy new Soviet theme café that celebrates the diverse cuisine of all the former Soviet Republics minus the knick-knackery that plagues other retro eateries. Enjoy a Eurasian feast of Ukrainian serniki (cottage cheese fritters), Georgian khachapuri and Kazakh beshparmak (horse meat and noodles) washed down with Moldovan wines or Russian beer. Enter from ul Dzerzhinskogo.
reviewed
