Resurrection Hill

When founded in 1604, Tomsk's original fortress sat atop Resurrection Hill. For the city's 400th anniversary, an impressive replica of its 'Golden Gate' was rebuilt in wood complete with domed central tower. Beside it, the well-presented but sparse Tomsk History Museum has resprouted its wooden lookout tower: try to spot the seven historic churches from the top.

Olde-worlde charm continues up cobbled ul Bakunina (named for a 19th-century anarchist) past the Italianate 1833 Catholic Church and on towards the Voznesenskaya Church. This Gothic edifice with five gold-tipped black spires has great potential as a Dracula movie set. A truly massive bell hangs from its new lurid-pink belfry. About 200m beyond is the Ozero Beloye pond, whose surrounding park is popular for beer terraces and rides in horse carts or sleighs according to the season. The cute, Old Believers' Wooden Church is worth a look if you've got any energy left, though its surroundings are relatively uninteresting.