Until the BAM clunked into town, Nizhneangarsk had led an isolated existence for over 300 years, cobbling together its long streets of wooden houses and harvesting Baikal’s rich omul (a type of fish) stocks. If truth be told, not much changed when the railway arrived, but despite the appearance of now larger Severobaikalsk 30km away, the 5km-long village remains the administrative centre of northern Baikal.
The Regional Museum chases the history of the region back to the 17th century and includes several Evenki exhibits.
To the east of the town a long spit of land known as Yarki Island caps the most northerly point of Lake Baikal and keeps powerful currents and waves out of the fragile habitat of the Verkhnyaya Angara delta. You can walk along its length.
Scenic low-altitude flights cross Lake Baikal to Ulan-Ude (six per week) when weather conditions allow.
Marshrutky (R50, 50 minutes) from Severobaikalsk run every 30 minutes along ul Pobedy then continue along the coast road (ul Rabochaya) to the airport.