Things to do in Barnaul
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FSB Headquarters
The FSB headquarters is worth a peek. The bearded dude in the courtyard is Felix Dzerzhinsky, the founder of the Cheka, forerunners to the KGB and the current day FSB. A much larger monument to Iron Felix was torn down in Moscow as the USSR collapsed in 1991, and he is a very uncommon face indeed in modern Russia. Be sure to check out the large Soviet-era ‘Workers Unite!’ mural to Felix’s left. Taking photos of the FSB HQ is not advised.
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Altai Arts, Literature &Culture Museum
The impressively eclectic Altai Arts, Literature &Culture Museum occupies a restored, furnished 1850s mansion in which piano recitals are held on Saturday afternoons. There are some fine icons, Rerikh sketches, and even the inevitable WWII room is imaginatively handled through cartoons and theatre posters.
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Imperator
Rapacious redevelopment has destroyed much of Barnaul's older architecture. Nonetheless, century-old remnants are dotted between the shopping malls of pr Lenina's tree-shaded southern end. A few splendid wooden-lace houses include the famous Imperator, now a nightclub, plus ul Korolenko 96 and ul Polzunova 31 and 48.
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Polzunov Restaurant
Old copperware and wooden beams add appeal to this delightful upper-market restaurant. The imaginative menu (in English) includes tasty pork premyera with pineapple, walnut and mushroom sauce. Attached is a bakery-grocery and the excellent MasterFood Cafeteria.
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obelisk
Classical pl Demidov was once exaggeratedly dubbed a 'slice of St Petersburg'. Now the slice is itself sliced in half by the tram tracks of Krasnoarmeysky pr and is hardly memorable, apart from the 1825 obelisk which is still faintly bullet-pocked from a 1918 skirmish.
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Bliny Bar
Superb stuffed bliny made to order in a fast-food-style diner. There's another branch on the 3rd floor of the City Tsentr shopping mall which has a useful 1st-floor supermarket and whose Voskhod Bakery stand has great cheese strudels.
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Altour
Specialist for, as one reader put it, ‘really mad, high-adrenaline experienced rafting adventures’. Not for beginners in other words. Office entered through VIP-Tur at the rear of a big apartment block.
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Regional Museum
Founded in 1823, the reasonably interesting Regional Museum is Siberia’s oldest museum. Top exhibits include intriguing models of various 18th-century industrial processes.
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Dezhavyu
Small but inexpensive meals served in an upbeat, youthful atmosphere where the déjà vu in question is the Eiffel Tower, a giant photo of which is echoed in ironwork motifs above the bar.
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War History Museum
In an old brick house, the War History Museum is simple and all in Russian but the moving understatement of its Afghanistan and Chechnya memorials is particularly affecting.
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Pozharka
‘Pozharka’ means ‘little fire’, and this friendly fire brigade–themed grill bar also does a wide range of sushi. Can get packed at weekends.
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Altour/Class 5
Specialist for extreme white-water rafting expeditions. Not for beginners. Office entered through VIP-Tur at the rear of a big apartment block.
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Pokrovsky
The bulbous-domed, brick Pokrovsky is the most appealing of the city’s many churches with a fine, gilded interior.
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Sibirskaya Korona
Next door to the Hotel Siberia, this popular bar-restaurant is hard to beat for good-value business lunches (R85) from 1pm to 4pm.
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Granmulino
Low-key modern café-restaurant with a vast, pictorial menu ranging from sushi to pizzas and cakes. Service very variable.
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Mexico
Plastic flashing palm trees and okay Mexican food. Be sure to ask if you want it spicy! Cover R100 from 8pm on music nights.
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City Tsentr
The City Tsentr shopping mall has a useful 1st-floor supermarket and whose Voskhod Bakery stand has great cheese strudels.
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MasterFood Cafeteria
Attached to the Polzunov Restaurant at pr Krasnoarmeysky 112, is a bakery-grocery and the excellent MasterFood Cafeteria.
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Pokrovskoe Cathedral
The bulbous-domed, brick Pokrovskoe is the most appealing of the city's many churches with a fine, gilded interior.
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Altai Fine Art Museum
The Altai Fine Art Museum is the best of several galleries in this very cultured city.
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Rok’n’Roll
Designer-graffiti music bar-café whose menu reads like a Beatles’ lyric sheet.
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Penaty Bookshop
Stocks many useful maps, atlases, postcards and Altai picture books.
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