Things to do in Yuzhno Sakhalinsk
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Regional Museum
Home to the Karafuto administration before the USSR seized the island from the Japanese in 1945, the pagoda-roofed Regional Museum is the city's best museum. On the 1st floor are photos of the island's (and the Kurils') natural features and Chekhov-era prisons, plus 19th century seal-hide tunics worn by the Ainu (some of the island's indigenous population). The wildlife room - a taxidermy-rama - features a seal exhibit complete with a model of a bird dung-splattered cliff.
Upstairs highlights the Soviet days - best is the photo of the 1931 komsomol group with a mix of races sitting sides by side. A small Korean exhibit has recently been added. It's all in Cyrillic (except…
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Sakhalin Regional Museum
The pagoda-roofed Sakhalin Regional Museum has a 21st-century exhibit exploring the Japanese/Soviet overlap of the city’s history, typified by the building itself, which served as the home of the Karafuto administration before the Soviets seized the island from the Japanese in 1945. The 1st floor is full of much older exhibits, including realised dreams of taxidermy and some fascinating Aino artifacts and photos from back before the original south Sakhalin inhabits fled to Japan. The front gardens are a popular sitting area for locals, as are the armoured vehicles next to a jet fighter at the old Officers’ Club (Dom Ofitserov), a block east.
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Gagarin Park
Scrappy but loved, the 220-acre Gagarin Park, at the city's east side, is Yuzhno's greenest hang-out spot, with loads of rides, shaded walkways and free concerts on Sunday afternoons in summer. Nearby, from the east end of Kommunistichesky pr, is a trail you can climb for a view of town (and the smokestacks), which is near the Gorny Vozdukh ski area in winter. Head south at ul Gorkogo, then follow the trail to the east.
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Museum of Sakhalin Island: A Book by Ap Chekhov
A few blocks northwest, the (brace yourself for the name) Museum of Sakhalin Island: A Book by AP Chekhov is a simple two-floor showing of Chekhov’s few months in Sakhalin, including a picnic photo with visiting Japanese dignitaries (looking rather like the bearded Bob Dylan on the New Morning album cover). A couple of signs are in English.
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Kafe Kolobok
When your budget’s stretched and stomach’s empty, no one does it like Kolo. A newer take on the old stolovaya. Freshly made dishes such as bliny, chicken or sausage meals, plus the happy breakfast bowls of kasha (porridge; R29) are shown in a removable-slot board by the serving line.
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Art Museum
A couple of blocks west, the upstairs permanent collection (pre-Soviet Russian oils, Korean and Japanese textiles) at the Art Museum usually beats the changing exhibits of local artists downstairs; best is getting inside the unique building, a former Japanese bank built in 1935.
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Sakhalin Outdoor Club
Sasha Dashersky is one of the city's most knowledgeable guides, and offers many entertaining trips, such as day and overnight fishing trips to Tambuka River, 80km south, and a five-day trip to the Chamgu Pass including hiking up a 1510m mountain with the option of summer skiing.
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Pacific Café
In the SakhinCentr, this all-Western standard self-serve café is a de facto business-meeting venue. The Texas-big ‘business lunch’ fills trays from noon to 3pm weekdays; you can get a burger (R270) and fries (R60) anytime, or order an American breakfast.
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Chyornaya Koshka
Tucked behind a pavilion of drab housing blocks, the new 'Black Cat' is a very popular eatery for wine-sipping locals dining on big portions of beef, pork, fish and - ! - Mexican quesadillas (cheese pastries) or Spanish paella. Reserve on weekends.
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Mishka Pub
In the Rubin Hotel’s basement, this tiny expat heaven – complete with an Oklahoma pennant over one of the muted TVs – is popular for its huge Russian business lunch (noon to 3pm, R250) and messy cheeseburgers (R270) and beer later on.
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Slavyanka
Slavyanka Matryoshka dolls and wooden spoons encircle (mostly Russian) diners at this homy, eight-table restaurant that fills for all meals. The stage sees a balalaika trio perform nightly. Food's good and there's an English menu.
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Nihon Mitai
Yuzhno’s favourite sushi spot is a bit out of the centre, but the stylish, bamboo-central, 2nd-floor dining room is good for soba noodles (R265 to R390) and picking from the sushi conveyor belt after 6pm (from R80 per piece).
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Kona Bar
Patronised by many oil-talking businessmen, the Kona Bar is bamboo-loungey and masculine – with football on the big screen and upscale machismo over by the pool table. Food is from Pacific Café next door.
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Rendezvous
This small, windowless, modern parlour-style place serves tasty, authentic Korean food. Squid fans should try odinopokum (squid with chilli paste and rice). Photo menu, with some English.
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AP Chekhov Book Museum
Devoted to Chekhov's 1890 visit to Sakhalin, the AP Chekhov Book Museum was closed for renovation at last pass. It's supposedly going to expand from its small collection of photos and artwork.
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Cippolini
In the happening basement of the Sfera business centre, this slick restaurant-bar hauls in the rubles for the R320 set lunch – pizzas (R225 to R415) get going later.
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Taj Mahal
Cheerful place with colourful murals and very good Indian curries. The lunch set meals start at R230 (not including drinks). The door is in back of the building.
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Holiday Palace
Upstairs in the monolith that is the Holiday Palace Entertainment Complex, the Holiday is a popular disco. There's also a casino.
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Chekhov Theatre
The Chekhov irregularly holds popular music comedy shows. Located across from the Sakhalin Centre.
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Ya Maika
It’s here if Mom asked for a ‘I love Sakhalin’ pen (R70) or T-shirt (R450).
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Bookstore
A few English-language books available.
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Torgovy Kompleks Pervy
Well-stocked supermarket with deli.
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777
A popular disco.
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