Things to do in Mineral Water Spas
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Lermontov Duel Site
In a clearing on the forested western flank of Mt Mashuk is a monument marking the Lermontov duel site The actual duel site is unknown but is thought to be near the needle-point obelisk that even today is bedecked with flowers. To get here ride marshrutka 113a or bus 16 from the Upper Market to the ‘Mesto Duely’ (Duel Site) stop (5 minutes). From there walk three minutes to a fork in the road, bear left and continue for five minutes.
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Kafé Panorama
From humble railway carriage beginnings, Kafé Panorama has metamorphosed into a large swanky restaurant for those out for a night of dining, wining and dancing. The band hasn't changed; they've just cranked up the volume and added modern pop to their wild Armenian rhythms. The Armenian cuisine specialises in shashlyks and kebabs; try the lulya, a ground mutton or chicken kebab that melts in the mouth. It's best to take a taxi.
reviewed
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Chaliapin Dacha Literary Museum
Chaliapin, the legendary Russian opera singer, lived in a palatial wood and stained-glass villa near the train station in 1917, which is now the Chaliapin Dacha Literary Museum. There are lots of photos of this bear of a man (he was 1.96m – 6ft 5in) in his various roles, plaster ceilings bursting with cherubs and fruit designs, and a lovely glaze-tiled chimney.
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Museum
Many Pyatigorsk attractions revolve around larger-than-life writer, poet, painter, cavalry soldier, society beau and duellist Mikhail Lermontov. Chief among these is this museum. Three cottages contain some original furniture, copies of Lermontov’s poems, sketches and 19th-century trinkets. Lermontov lived here during his final months.
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Lesnaya Polyana
This peaceful Caucasian restaurant, hidden in the forest 50m from the Lermontov duel site, has outdoor seating in round twig huts. The house specialty is Azeri sadzh (sizzling meat dish served in a cast-iron pan with potatoes and onions). The beer is expensive; go with local Stavropol wine or imported Azeri wine instead (both around R100 per bottle).
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Yaroshenko Museum
The small Yaroshenko Museum houses the works of the incomparable late 19th-century Russian portraitist Nikolai Yaroshenko, a leading proponent of Russian realism. One room is dedicated to landscapes of the surrounding countryside. Yaroshenko’s lovingly cared-for tomb is just outside nearby St Nicholas Church.
reviewed
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Restoran Zamok
This modern castle, 7km west of Kislovodsk in the Alikonovka gorge, trades on a legend about a boy who leapt from the edge of a nearby cliff out of love for a local girl. The girl was supposed to leap too but thought better of it. The setting is pseudomedieval, the dishes Georgian and the wine hellishly expensive. A taxi costs about R140.
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Narzan Gallery
The warm yellow stone of this graceful, well-preserved 1850s building recalls the spa town of Bath, England. Inside, the rich, carbonic Narzan Spring bubbles up inside a glass dome and spits out nearly undrinkable water into several fountains. Never mind the foul taste; if you come here you’re obliged to have a cup, so drink up!
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Café Têt-a-Têt
It would be hard to imagine a more pleasant spot for coffee than the upper-level outside gallery here. Buskers below provide accordion music while you enjoy a bird’s-eye view of lively pr Kirova. The barista whips up all sorts of coffee and teas, plus cocktails and Dagestani cognac at a mere R50 a shot.
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Aeolian Harp
Walk from Proval southwest down bul Gagarina to an obvious path on the left that leads through woods to a little domed pavilion, the Aeolian Harp, long a favourite lookout point. Early morning should reveal a magnificent view of Mt Elbrus. It was built in 1831 to replace a real harp plucked by a weather vane.
reviewed
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Blok Post
Sells military and police gear plus some camping equipment. For about R400 you can buy one of those black-peaked hats with tops as big as dinner plates, worn by anyone with a uniform in Russia. Other souvenirs include genuine lamb’s-wool shapky (hats; R4000) and various medallions and badges.
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Lermontov Museum
Lermontov's thatched cottage where he spent his last two months in 1841 is in the Lermontov Museum, a group of Lermontov-related buildings in a beautiful garden. The buildings still have some original furniture, copies of Lermontov's poems, sketches and a collection of watercolours of local scenes.
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Academic Gallery
The Academic Gallery is perched above the eastern terminus of pr Kirova. It was built in 1851 to house one of Pyatigorsk’s best-known springs – No 16 (currently closed). It was here that Lermontov’s antihero, Pechorin, first set eyes on Princess Mary.
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Goldfish
A jungle of rampant vines almost covers this sunken garden leaving hidy-hole shelters containing wonky plastic tables. House speciality is the Goldfish salad - shrimps, salmon caviar, salad vegetables and a cognac dressing; afternoon tea is served with large lumps of Turkish delight.
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Drinking Gallery
You can take the waters from endlessly gushing taps. The taste is flat and yucky – diluted bad eggs come to mind. This is the sulphur content that’s supposedly good for stomach complaints, probably because it kills off anything in your stomach.
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Fortress Museum
The Fortress Museum is within the remaining walls of Kislovodsk, the 1803 fort. The museum traces the city’s history. Pushkin, Tolstoy and Lermontov were visitors, and the late dissident writer Solzhenitsyn was born here.
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Spa Research Institute
The striking classical-style Spa Research Institute, built in 1828 and rebuilt in 1955, was once Restoratsiya, the town’s first hotel and scene of balls described in Lermontov’s A Hero of Our Time.
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Art Café Nostalgia
Despite the name, it’s more a statement of the new (European) Russia than a hark to the past. Elegantly designed with a relaxed atmosphere either inside or on its covered terrace. The food is light but ample and subtle in taste.
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Kafe Tet-a-Tet
The upper-level outside gallery provides a circle view on life below while all sorts of coffee and 34 varieties of tea plus yummy cakes provide the refreshments. The exquisite chocolate drink needs to be spooned rather than drunk.
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Kafe Terek
This top-floor place operates as both a stolovaya (canteen) with a counter buffet and as an à la carte restaurant. If you're in for a quick feed go for the buffet and you have a choice of inside or terrace dining.
reviewed
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Kazan House
This shashlyk specialist lies outside the main tourist zone, so it’s quieter, better and cheaper than places on Kurortny bul. The lulya kebabs are huge, and a half-litre of lager to wash it down costs just R40.
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Foxhole
In the basement of Kafe Terek, the Foxhole has dark hideaways for intimate conversations or shady deals, or a more lighted area for dining. Bliny come with almost anything - cabbage, bacon, apricots, cherries or salmon caviar.
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Millenium
This affordable hangout draws locals in droves to while away the afternoon eating shashlyk and putting back R40 pints of Don Zhivoe and Elbrus draught beer. The outdoor patio provides good people-watching along pr Kirova.
reviewed
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Golden Dragon
Tired of shashlyk? Golden Dragon’s menu of Korean and Japanese food might tempt you. It even has an English menu – rare in Kislovodsk. The no-frills café downstairs has Russian food and the best desserts in town.
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Block Post
Sells military and police gear plus some camping equipment. For about around Rbl300 you can buy one of those black-peaked hats with tops as big as dinner plates, worn by anyone with a uniform in Russia.
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