Things to do in Kislovodsk
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Chaliapin Dacha Literary Museum
Chaliapin, the legendary Russian opera singer, lived in a palatial wood and stained-glass villa near the train station in 1917, which is now the Chaliapin Dacha Literary Museum. There are lots of photos of this bear of a man (he was 1.96m – 6ft 5in) in his various roles, plaster ceilings bursting with cherubs and fruit designs, and a lovely glaze-tiled chimney.
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Yaroshenko Museum
The small Yaroshenko Museum houses the works of the incomparable late 19th-century Russian portraitist Nikolai Yaroshenko, a leading proponent of Russian realism. One room is dedicated to landscapes of the surrounding countryside. Yaroshenko’s lovingly cared-for tomb is just outside nearby St Nicholas Church.
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Restoran Zamok
This modern castle, 7km west of Kislovodsk in the Alikonovka gorge, trades on a legend about a boy who leapt from the edge of a nearby cliff out of love for a local girl. The girl was supposed to leap too but thought better of it. The setting is pseudomedieval, the dishes Georgian and the wine hellishly expensive. A taxi costs about R140.
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Narzan Gallery
The warm yellow stone of this graceful, well-preserved 1850s building recalls the spa town of Bath, England. Inside, the rich, carbonic Narzan Spring bubbles up inside a glass dome and spits out nearly undrinkable water into several fountains. Never mind the foul taste; if you come here you’re obliged to have a cup, so drink up!
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Fortress Museum
The Fortress Museum is within the remaining walls of Kislovodsk, the 1803 fort. The museum traces the city’s history. Pushkin, Tolstoy and Lermontov were visitors, and the late dissident writer Solzhenitsyn was born here.
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Kazan House
This shashlyk specialist lies outside the main tourist zone, so it’s quieter, better and cheaper than places on Kurortny bul. The lulya kebabs are huge, and a half-litre of lager to wash it down costs just R40.
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Golden Dragon
Tired of shashlyk? Golden Dragon’s menu of Korean and Japanese food might tempt you. It even has an English menu – rare in Kislovodsk. The no-frills café downstairs has Russian food and the best desserts in town.
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Narzan Baths
The main Narzan Baths are in an eye-catching 1903 Indian temple–style building that has been closed for years. Narzan means ‘Drink of Brave Warriors’ in Turkish.
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Lermontovskaya Skala
Lermontovskaya Skala is where the climactic duel in A Hero of Our Time was set. With a good map you can find all sorts of pretty walks around here.
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Philharmonia
Founded in 1895; presents concerts in a beautiful baroque and neoclassical auditorium.
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Magnit
Supermarket for self-caterers, 200m south of the colonnade on pr Mira.
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