Things to do in Central Caucasus
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Café Kristall
Specialises in Karachay cuisine, including sokhta (a mammoth sausage-like creation stuffed with minced liver and rice) and dzhyorme (smaller Karachay sausage). Seating is outside on a porch along the river or in the cosy dining room with refectory tables. The atmosphere is jovial, and you just might be invited in to share food, vodka and song with the Karachay regulars here.
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Restaurant Sosruko
This architecturally unusual restaurant at the terminus of the chairlift in Dolinsk Park comprises the head of Sosruko with an outstretched arm and hand holding a flame. It’s the place to try Kabardian national cuisine, including the Sosruko special, a concoction of minced meat, mushrooms and herbs in a pastry pear.
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Elsi-Trek
Elsi-Trek runs full-day tours to Chegem Waterfall (per tour group with English guide R3000), multiday mountaineering expeditions in the mountains around Bezengi, and various other tours up the valleys south and west of Nalchik.
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Adyge Une
This excellent souvenir shop sells all manner of Kabardian and Circassian items, such as hats (R500 to R4000), drinking vessels and jewellery bearing Circassian symbols. Also carries beautiful Dagestani silver jewellery.
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Bars
Exclusive agent for foreigner border permits, in the basement of the new cable-car base station. Guides day hikes, multiday mountaineering expeditions, rock climbing, backcountry skiing (freeriding) and heliskiing.
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Park
This park near the reserve office in Teberda has pens with deer, foxes and other local fauna, as well as a small nature museum. Admission is covered by the reserve entrance fee (R50).
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Central Market
Browsing the aisles of fruit and fresh-baked flat bread (R10) to the ubiquitous strains of Caucasian tanz (dance) music in the Central Market is a Nalchik highlight.
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Teberdinsky Nature Reserve Office
The nature reserve office issues reserve passes and can arrange guides for hikes originating in Teberda. It’s just off the main road on the north edge of Teberda.
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Kabardino-Balkaria National Museum
The Kabardino-Balkaria National Museum has a good 3-D topographical map of the mountains and displays covering the history of the area.
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Pizza House
Back in the centre this efficient, modern, squeaky clean Italian restaurant churns out excellent pizza, pasta and meat dishes and has a salad bar.
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Teberdinsky Nature Reserve
Dombay and its surrounding mountains lie within the Teberdinsky Nature Reserve.
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