Things to do in Murmansk
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Krayevyedchesky Museum
The varied exhibits of the Krayevyedchesky Museum include good features on Sami and Pomor history and the Anglo-American occupation. There's a good souvenir shop, and museum guides can be hired for city tours in English.
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Lake Semyonovskoe
Atop the hill 2km north of pl Pyat Uglov, Lake Semyonovskoe is the focus of the largest open space near the centre and a favourite playground for Murmansk. The lake is named after the would-be hermit Semyon Korzhnev, an old tsarist soldier who retired at the turn of the 20th century to a cabin on the shore and was the only resident for miles around. Imagine his disappointment when Murmansk appeared on his utopian horizon!
The lake and indeed much of Murmansk are overlooked by Alyosha, a truly gigantic concrete Great Patriotic War soldier from whose feet you can enjoy spectacular views over the city. The lake is frozen for much of the year but in summer people swim and boa…
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Blue Water Holidays
Murmansk is the starting point for July and August cruises to the North Pole and Arctic islands on Russian icebreakers, an exotic and expensive experience where passengers see dramatic seascapes and, with luck, Arctic wildlife (the voyages last around two weeks). You will need to book well in advance and many agencies include flights from Helsinki or Moscow to Murmansk in their packages.
Cruise to the North Pole in one of Russia's nuclear icebreakers, or take a trip to dramatic Franz Josef Land or Novaya Zemlya and Severnaya Zemlya in non-nuclear icebreakers. The ships are fitted out for passengers and some of the profits go towards the upkeep of Russia's icebreaker fleet…
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Quark Expeditions
Murmansk is the starting point for July and August cruises to the North Pole and Arctic islands, an experience where passengers see dramatic seascapes and scenery and, with luck, a good deal of Arctic wildlife. Book well in advance (many agencies include flights from Helsinki or Moscow to Murmansk in their packages). Voyages last around two weeks to the North Pole itself or to Franz Josef Land or Novaya Zemlya and Severnaya Zemlya.
The ships are fitted out for passengers and some of the profits go towards the upkeep of Russia's icebreaker fleet.
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Museum of the Northern Fleet
Naval buffs make the trek to the Museum of the Northern Fleet covering the founding of Russia’s first navy in Arkhangelsk, the Murmansk convoys of WWII and the modern fleet. The museum is within a turquoise, somewhat crumbling three-storey cultural centre fronted by anchors. Take bus 10 to the penultimate stop (‘Nakhimova’, opposite ul Admirala Lobova 43), walk on for 300m, then turn left and it’s 80m up ul Tortseva. Shimmy through the building’s foyer and the museum is to the left, within.
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Arcturus
Cruises to the North Pole and Arctic islands on Russian icebreakers are an expensive experience, but worth it, if it's your thing. You'll see dramatic seascapes and scenery and, with luck, Arctic wildlife. (Book well in advance). You'll either travel in one of Russia's nuclear icebreakers - to the North Pole itself; or in a non-nuclear icebreaker - to one of the Arctic islands. The ships are fitted out for passengers and some of the profits go to the upkeep of Russia's icebreaker fleet.
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Purga
A naked derriere moons you at the top of the entry stairs forewarning of this place’s delightful craziness. Sit in cave-alcoves while bands play blues-rock and art students dressed up as fake grannies engage customers in hilariously nonsensical conversation. They also serve standard food (mains from R150), so you can make a night of it. Booking ahead is wise at weekends. It’s around 35 minutes south of the centre by trolleybus 6 then 30m west of bus stop Pervomayskaya.
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Poseidon
Murmansk is the starting point for July and August cruises to the North Pole and Arctic islands (Franz Josef Land, Novaya Zemlya, Severnaya Zemlya) on Russian icebreakers. The voyages last around two weeks and you'll see dramatic seascapes and Arctic wildlife. Book well in advance. The ships - either a nuclear icebreaker or non-nuclear ship - are fitted out for passengers and at least some of the profits go towards the upkeep of the fleet.
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Rvanye Parusa
The fun, slightly silly sailing-ship theme upstairs comes with netting and golden mermaids. Meals range from potted elk (R195) and reindeer in blueberries (R195) to some good-value creamy fish dishes (R220). Downstairs choose from pizza, kebabs or steak washed down with beer from their microbrewery.
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Detsky Gorodok
Detsky Gorodok is a children's attraction consisting of a fake fort with swings, tunnels and climbing frames - plus a café where all ages can get a warming drink or snack. Located just up the street from the Church of the Saviour on the Waters.
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Restoran Spasatelny Krug
Classy but friendly, this stone-walled restaurant in the Seamen's Club serves lots of good fish, seafood and meat, and has a fine list of European wines. Service can be a bit slow as many dishes are prepared to order, but they're worth the wait.
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Traktir Kruzhka
Jolly, bustling mid-market restaurant with rural-Russia feel upstairs and cherry-blossom oriental touches beneath. A giant log bar is decorated with pots, pans and the odd axe. Food curiosities include fruit-and-chocolate sushi.
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Artistic Craftsmanship Centre
The Artistic Craftsmanship Centre hosts about 30 exhibitions a year of regional crafts. You might come across anything from lacework or Pomor costumes to amulets made from rye dough or items of braided birch bark.
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Regional Studies Museum
The Regional Studies Museum features geology, natural history and oceanography on the 2nd floor, and Kola Peninsula history on the 3rd floor. There’s a reasonable souvenir shop too.
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Alan
Curiously ornate but with friendly service, the Alan serves tasty Caucasian fare. Servings are not the hugest so order some delicious khichiny (cheese-filled flatbreads) to round things out.
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Mama Mia
Cosy yet unpretentious and understandably popular, Mama Mia specialises in great, large pizzas and regional meat-and-berry dishes. Taste both by ordering reindeer ( olenina ) pizza.
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Tsarskaya Okhota
The good-value Russian cuisine here is highly rated by the locals. Furs and hunting trophies are features of the décor, and an angry stuffed bear guards the toilets.
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Lighthouse Monument
The Lighthouse Monument commemorates lost sailors including the 118 crew of the Kursk nuclear submarine that sank in the Barents Sea in 2000.
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Cyr
A pleasant if poorly maintained cheese-themed restaurant, Cyr serves sandwiches from R40 and set lunches for R100. There's annoying live music after 8pm.
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Las Galletas
Spacious modern café decorated in chocolate tones with bare-board floors and a selection of freshly squeezed seasonal juices (R100 to R130).
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Leto
Bright lime-green, blood-red and apricot-orange decor dangling with long conical funnel-lamps. They serve coffee, cocktails and café food.
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Regional Craft Centre
The Regional Craft Centre shows Kola Peninsula art including Apatity-style canvases 'painted' with mineral powders.
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City Exhibition Hall
The City Exhibition Hall sells enamelled boxes, minerals, matryoshki and other interesting souvenirs.
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Red Pub
Fun if out-of-centre Soviet-nostalgia pub. It’s ten minutes’ walk from the trolleybus 6 route along pr Kolsky.
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Klub Dekabr
Red-and-black basement disco beneath the Murmansk Cinema also hosts jazz concerts and striptease competitions.
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