Shopping in Moscow
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A Korkunov
That this candy company was founded in 1997 may come as a surprise, as the shop’s interior feels like an old-fashioned confectioner. The seductive line of handmade chocolates – 15 kinds of filled candies and two types of bars – are lined up in a glass case, defying your will power. There are also a few tables, in case you care to indulge in a hot chocolate (R75 to R120).
reviewed
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Izmaylovo Market
This sprawling area, also known as Vernisazh market, is packed with art, handmade crafts, antiques, Soviet paraphernalia and just about anything you might want for a souvenir. You’ll find Moscow’s biggest original range of matryoshki, palekh and khokhloma ware, as well as less traditional woodworking crafts. There are also rugs from the Caucasus and Central Asia, pottery, linens, jewellery, fur hats, chess sets, toys, Soviet posters and much more. Feel free to negotiate, but don’t expect vendors to come down more than 10%. This place is technically open every day, but many vendors come out only on weekends, when your selection is greater.
reviewed
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Ministerstvo Podarkov
For quirky, clever souvenirs, stop by this network of artists’ cooperatives. Each outlet has a different name, but the goods are more or less the same: uniquely Russian gifts such as artist-designed tapki (slippers) and hand-woven linens. Most intriguingly, artist Yuri Movchan has invented a line of funky, functional fixtures (lights, clocks, etc) made from old appliances and other industrial discards. There is another outlet – Podarky, Dekor & Podarky – near Patriarch’s Ponds.
reviewed
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Bukle
The collection of Lyudmila Mezentsevaya, called Vereteno, is on display at this little café-cum-boutique. It’s not so outrageous – but no less creative – as some other Russian fashion. On sale is mostly casual wear, including T-shirts, skirts, sweaters, scarves, handbags and watches, all with an innovative twist. For shoppers who are not worried about squeezing into a miniskirt, there is an outlet of Gogol-Mogol on site.
reviewed
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Bustier
Underwear is yet another measure of Russia’s amazing transition to capitalism. Gone are the days of one-size-fits-all, baggy cotton briefs; sensational, sexy lingerie is now on sale all over Moscow. Several top-of-the-line stores stock European designer lingerie that is devastatingly sensual and devastatingly expensive. Bustier is more moderately priced, but also features classy French and Italian styles. One of many outlets around town.
reviewed
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Chapurinbar
Fashion maven Igor Chapurin got his start designing theatre costumes, but his creativity knows no bounds: in addition to men’s and women’s clothing, he has a line of children’s clothing and sportswear. Following in the footsteps of Denis Simachyov, he has opened a boutique with a hip club to accompany it. Set on two storeys, the place was designed by Chapurin himself and furnished with elements of the Chapurincasa line.
reviewed
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Podarky, Dekor & Podarky
For quirky, clever souvenirs, stop by this network of artists’ cooperatives. Each outlet has a different name, but the goods are more or less the same: uniquely Russian gifts such as artist-designed tapki (slippers) and hand-woven linens. Most intriguingly, artist Yuri Movchan has invented a line of funky, functional fixtures (lights, clocks, etc) made from old appliances and other industrial discards.
reviewed
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Detsky Mir
At the time of writing Children’s World was closed for a complex and highly controversial renovation project. Developers have promised not to alter the building’s art deco exterior, which is considered a Moscow landmark. But the interior will be completely revamped, with the addition of underground parking, an internal atrium, a multiplex cinema and a family-focused entertainment zone. Stay tuned.
reviewed
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Atrium
This slick new shopping arcade is three stories of useful shops, including clothing and accessories, sporting goods, toys and luggage. It is one of Moscow's more practical places to shop as it is not as exclusive as some of the more centrally located shopping malls. The mall contains a large Arbat Prestige store (a cosmetics boutique), a massive children's play centre and plenty of places to eat.
reviewed
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Yekaterina
One of Russia’s oldest furriers, this place has been manufacturing shapky (fur hats) and shuby (fur coats) since 1912. While Yekaterina has always maintained a reputation for high-quality furs and leather, its designs are constantly changing and updating to stay on top of fashion trends. There is another outlet in Dorogomilovo.
reviewed
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Krasny Oktyabr Store
For more than 100 years, the sweet aroma of chocolate permeated every corner of Bolotny Island and beyond. Alas, the factory is no longer functioning and the air has cleared, much to the dismay of local chocolate lovers, who had come to savour the mouth-watering scents. The good news is that the Krasny Oktyabr Store still operates on site and it sure smells sweet.
reviewed
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Guelman Gallery
Since the early 1990s, the Guelman Gallery has been working with young creative talents to showcase groundbreaking art and to push the boundaries of artistic acceptance in post-Soviet Russia. Besides exhibits at the gallery itself, Guelman often organises exhibits at the Central House of Artists (attached to the New Tretyakov) and other venues around the city.
reviewed
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Gorbushka Market
Located in the former Rubin furniture factory, the Gorbushka market has electronics on the 1st floor, and music and movies on the 2nd floor. Mayor Luzhkov has been working hand in hand with the landlord of the Rubin building to crack down on sales of pirated goods, so Gorbushka is no longer the emporium of illegal CDs and DVDs that it used to be.
reviewed
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Uneroid
This wacky, underground boutique features cosmos-inspired fashion modelled on alien mannequins. Look for lots of tie-dye, batik and other way-out motifs. Designers include Chillout Family, Space Tribe and Acid Dreams. They have likely smoked their fair share of marijuana, resulting in a collection of cool clothes reminiscent of the hippy era.
reviewed
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Evropeysky Shopping Centre
At the time of construction this was the largest urban shopping centre in the world. It does not compare to the megamalls on the city outskirts, but it is big. Its stores include Bustier, Bel Postel and Vassa & Co. Besides the hundreds of shops and restaurants, highlights include an ice-skating rink, a movie theatre and a supermarket.
reviewed
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Valentin Yudashkin Boutique
The best-known Russian fashion designer is Valentin Yudashkin, whose classy clothes are on display at the Louvre and the Met, as well as the State History Museum in Moscow (look but don’t touch!). If you wish to try something on, head to this swanky boutique, which seems like a museum but has many things that you can, in fact, buy.
reviewed
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Anglia
This is one of Moscow’s oldest English-language bookshops, carrying an impressive selection of contemporary literature and reference books. If you are not up for Anna Karenina in Russian, this is also a good place to pick up your English translation. The sale of used books benefits a local children’s charity.
reviewed
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Apteka Podarkov & Zaytsy
Perhaps a little creative whimsy is just what the doctor ordered. If so, this is the place for you. It calls itself an apteka (pharmacy), but it’s really a boutique of creative gifts and souvenirs – one in a network of artists’ cooperatives around Moscow. Another is Ministerstvo Podarkov, in Tverskoy.
reviewed
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Khudozhezestvenny Salon
Although it has a rather innocuous name, this art gallery is packed with paintings, sculpture, ceramics, jewellery and handicrafts by local artists. This place is owned by the artists, so you won’t have the high gallery mark-ups you might find at some other art centres. There is another outlet in Basmanny.
reviewed
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Bel Postel
This lovely linens store carries a sumptuous selection of bathrobes, blankets, sheets and towels. For a unique souvenir, take home a set of richly coloured tablecloths and napkins made from Russian linen. You will find some international designers, but most of the product line is soft Russian fabrics and unique Eastern prints.
reviewed
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Mostok
Shelves are stacked with trade books and counters are piled high with postcards. The walls are crammed with posters, prints and original artwork, some portraying unusual panoramas and historic Moscow scenes. Part frame store, part graphic-design service, part print shop, you never know what treasures you might find.
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Vologda Linen
Russia’s cool, moist summers are ideal for producing flax, the fibre used to manufacture linen. This elegant, durable fabric is respectfully known in Russia as ‘His Majesty Linen’. High-quality linen products such as tablecloths, napkins, bed covers and even clothing are still manufactured in Russia.
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Yekaterina
An outlet of one of Russia’s oldest furriers, which has been manufacturing shapky (fur hats) and shuby (fur coats) since 1912. While Yekaterina has always maintained a reputation for high-quality furs and leather, its designs are constantly changing and updating to stay on top of fashion trends.
reviewed
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Biblio-Globus
Moscow’s favourite bookshop is huge, with lots of reference and souvenir books on language, art and history, and a good selection of maps and travel guides. Just to prove that Russia’s consumer culture can keep up with the best of them, this old-school bookshop now has a coffee shop on the ground floor.
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Kovcheg Gallery
This unique gallery is devoted to showcasing the lost work of early Soviet artists. Caught between the vibrant, early-20th century (post-impressionism and avant garde) and the stifling Soviet period (socialist realism), many of these artists were never able to exhibit their work, until recent efforts to uncover it.
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