Staying in Viscri is special. Arrange a room in a traditional Saxon home by calling Carolina Fernolend (0740 145-397), who speaks English and can arrange accommodation for about €25 per night, including breakfast and dinner. Ask for one of the very few traditional rooms, with a 200-year-old ‘Saxon bed’, which is an oversized cabinet with a pullout mattress! Carolina can help arrange hikes, and popular three-hour horse-and-cart trips (50 lei per cart) that include stops at a new brick kiln, a picnic and a demonstration of charcoal making (10 lei extra). About half of the places have pit toilets – this is real-deal Saxon living. Call well ahead.