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Braşov

Things to do in Braşov

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  1. A

    Black Church

    Braşov's main landmark, just south of the Piaţa Sfatului (Council Square), is the Black Church, the largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul and still used by German Lutherans today. Built between 1383 and 1480 (delayed by an Ottoman razing), its name comes from its appearance after a fire in 1689.

    The original statues on the exterior of the apse are now inside (look back after you enter) and some 120 fabulous Turkish rugs hang from the balconies (gifts from merchants who returned from shopping sprees in the southern Ottoman lands). Worshippers drop coins through the wooden grates in the floor and hope for the best.

    The church's 4000-pipe organ, built by…

    reviewed

  2. Mount Tâmpa

    Towering above town from the east is Mount Tâmpa, where Braşov's original defensive fortress was built. Vlad Ţepeş attacked it in 1458, finally dismantling it two years later and - out of habit - impaling some 40 merchants atop the peak. These days it's an easy, and irresistible, trip up. Many visitors go via the Tâmpa cable car offering stunning views from the top of Mt Tâmpa and a communist-era dining room. There's access to hiking trails up here.

    Walk south to reach the 'Hollywood'-style Braşov sign, with a viewing platform. You can also hike to the top in an hour following zigzag trails from the cable-car station (red triangles) or from the northeastern edge of…

    reviewed

  3. Bistro de l'Arte

    In the bottom of a cosy 15th-century building, the Bistro is the place for sit-back wine sessions, breakfasts with wi-fi for your laptop, or lively dinners with mingling Romanian couples (who sometimes come for plays). The menu drifts from French and includes daily fish dishes, big salads and pasta.

    reviewed

  4. Str Storii

    Between Piaţa Sfatului and the Mt Tâmpa cable car is Str Storii, which is 1.32m by 83m - one of Europe's narrowest 'streets'. The cobbled pedestrian-only alley has been scrubbed up, with nice views of the 'Braşov' sign on the mountain, and connects Str Porta Schei and Str Cerbului.

    reviewed

  5. Piaţa Sfatului

    This wide square is the heart of medieval Braşov. In the centre stands the 1420 council house (Casa Sfatului), topped by a Trumpeter's Tower, in which town councillors, known as centurions, would meet. Some locals swear the joint's haunted; we were warned one worker there quit after 'hearing sounds'. Apparently the tower staged countless tortures, and the square outside supposedly staged the last witch burning in Europe. The Braşov Historical Museum is located here.

    reviewed

  6. First Romanian School Museum

    Beside St Nicholas' Cathedral is the two-room 1495 First Romanian School Museum, which packs a staggering far-reaching selection of old books and pieces, including the first Russian Bible (1581), King Ferdinand's coronation flag from 1922 (found in 2006), and 15th-century schoolbooks that warned 'he who will steal this book will be CURSED…his blood shall melt on his body…his left eye shall dry out!' Resist the temptation then. No English; guides are available.

    reviewed

  7. B

    St Nicholas' Cathedral

    The black-spired Orthodox Church of St Nicholas' Cathedral was first built in wood in 1392 and replaced by a Gothic stone church in 1495 by the Wallachian prince Neagoe Basarab (r 1512-21), later embellished in Byzantine style. In 1739 the church was enlarged and its interior heavily redecorated. Inside are murals of Romania's last king and queen, covered by plaster to protect them from communist leaders and uncovered in 2004.

    reviewed

  8. C

    White Tower

    On the hillside above the wall surrounding Old Braşov are two towers - the Black Tower (Turnul Neagru) and White Tower; both are rather white actually - offering nice views, particularly when the setting sun casts a golden hue on Braşov.

    reviewed

  9. D

    Black Tower

    On the hillside above the wall surrounding Old Braşov are two towers - the Black Tower and White Tower (Turnul Alba); both are rather white actually - offering nice views, particularly when the setting sun casts a golden hue on Braşov.

    reviewed

  10. Medieval Stone Wall

    Old Braşov is surrounded by a 12m high and 3km-long 15th-century wall , built to defend the city from Turkish attacks. Seven bastions were also raised around the city at the most exposed points, each one defended by a guild whose members, pending danger, tolled their bastion bell. The most popular viewing area is along the western section, which runs along a stream and pedestrianised Str Dupa Ziduri north to B-dul Eroilor. A good access point is 200m south of the Black Church.

    reviewed

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  12. E

    Weavers' Bastion Museum

    On the city wall's southeast corner, past the Schei Gate (Poatra Schei; 1825), is the 16th-century Weavers' Bastion (Bastionul Ţesătorilor). Visit the Weavers' Bastion Museum, housed in Braşov's only 15th-century building. The simple exhibits - in German and Romanian only - include a fudge-coloured model of Braşov in the 17th century, made in 1896 by a German teacher in town.

    reviewed

  13. Discover Romania

    This small agency (aka Aventours), led by English-speaking guides, offers tailor-made tours and oodles of information on the area. A great place to start for little or big things - like finding someone hiring cross-country skis in Zărneşti or full-on week-long hikes with guides. Staff can help even if you're not planning to take a tour.

    reviewed

  14. Schei Quarter

    In Saxon Braşov, Romanians were not allowed to enter the walled city but were banished to the Schei Quarter in the south-west. Entry to this quarter from the walled city was marked by the Schei Gate. Passing through it, the sober rows of Teutonic houses change to the small, simpler houses of the Romanian settlement.

    reviewed

  15. F

    Hirscher House

    Opposite the Braşov Historical Museum is the Renaissance Hirscher House (built 1539-45), also known as the 'Merchants House'. It was thoughtfully built by Apollonia Hirscher, the widow of Braşov mayor Lucas Hirscher, so that merchants could do business without getting rained on. Today it shelters a gallery.

    reviewed

  16. G

    Auld Scots Pub

    Capturing local imagination, and plain one-upping the local Irish pub, the kilts and Connery on the walls of this inviting bar can be forgiven for its tasteful sitting areas, three-board dart room and far better-than-average pub fare. Good Romanian wine comes by the glass if you wish, or there are pints of Ursus beer.

    reviewed

  17. Str Republicii

    Running north of Sfatului square, the pedestrianised Str Republicii provides respite from the traffic that detracts from the charm of the rest of the Old Town. The Memorial to Victims of 1989 Revolution is at the promenade's northern end, and the Heroe's Cemetery is across B-dul 15 de Noiembrie.

    reviewed

  18. H

    Mureşenilor House Memorial Museum

    On Sfatului square's western side stands the charming Mureşenilor House Memorial Museum, which honours the family of Jacob Mureşan, the first editor of the Romanian-language Gazeta Transylvania, a political newspaper published in the 19th century. No English is spoken.

    reviewed

  19. I

    Ethnographic Museum

    A block west of the Heroe's Cemetery, adjoining the Art Museum, is the Ethnographic Museum. There are laminated handouts (in English, German and French) explaining exhibits; ask for a demo of the early 20th-century eight-ribbon loom. It also houses a shop that sells souvenirs.

    reviewed

  20. J

    Braşov Historical Museum

    The old city hall in Piaţa Sfatului today houses the two-floor, by-the-numbers Braşov Historical Museum, in which the history of the Saxon guilds is recounted (in limited English); they could certainly sex up the small torture room.

    reviewed

  21. K

    Himalaya

    A great sports store with ski and hiking boots, sleeping bags, rock-climbing gear - pretty much whatever you forgot. Staff double as knowledgeable guides and they can sell you trail maps and point you to good DIY ones too.

    reviewed

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  23. Citadel

    In 1524 a new wooden Citadel was built in Braşov, on top of Citadel Hill just north, though the stone wall ruins you now see are from the 16th and 17th century. Today it houses a couple of beer patios.

    reviewed

  24. L

    Pizza Pasta Venezia

    Wall-sized Venetian paintings and soft lighting - and cheaper prices - helps this cosy Italian restaurant fill before its similar-themed neighbours. The mozzarella-and-tomato salad seems particularly fresh.

    reviewed

  25. M

    Hikes

    Hikes are everywhere - from atop Mt Tâmpa in town, Poiana Braşov, Zărneşti or into the Bucegi Mountains. Pick up maps from Himalaya or talk with a travel agent specialising in hikes.

    reviewed

  26. N

    Romanian Lycée

    South of the Schei Gate, along Str Prundului, is the first Romanian Lycée where the first Romanian opera Crai Nou (New Moon), written by Ciprian Porumbescu (1853-83), was performed in 1882.

    reviewed

  27. O

    Festival 39

    Cosy dark-lit room with happy locals filling the tables and bars when other bars are empty. Brick walls, dozens of candles and antiques, soft music, 20- and thirtysomething smoking locals.

    reviewed