Forty kilometres north of Odorheiu Secuiesc and 60km east of Târgu Mureş (but somewhere between St Moritz and Blackpool), with its green saltwater lakes surrounded by lush vegetation and forests, Sovata has a touristy feel. The most popular spot is Lacu Ursu, enjoying a steady temperature of between 30°C and 40°C. People have been coming here for the lakes' restorative properties – said to cure infertility – since the 19th century, and with its faded summer villas lining the road, the place has the air of a lost snapshot from a Chekhov play.
Sovata Tourist Information Centre, 3km northeast of the crossroads and 750m from Lacu Ursu, helps find homes, hotels and pensiunes. It rents bikes for 20 lei per day. Profits support a local orphanage. There are also a couple of ATMs in the main town of Sovata itself.
A few minutes walk from Lacu Ursu, Villa Sara is a cosy place to stay. Opposite the blackened church.
Five minibuses daily connect Sovata with Odorheiu Secuiesc (11 lei, one hour).