Things to do in Moldavia
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Quinta Café
High ceilings, cushy sofas, antique furniture and wood panelling give this lounge bar a familiar feel; in fact, this is a restored grand house. The weekday subdued music and lighting gives way to pounding bass and darkness on weekends.
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St Sava's Monastery
From Golia Monastery, head south along Str Armeană. On the right at No 22 you'll pass a small stone-and-brick Armenian Church (Biserica Armeană; 1395), considered the oldest church in Iaşi. Extensive renovations – which have begun anew – have stripped off most of the original Armenian architecture. At the southern end of Str Armeană, turn right to St Sava's Monastery , a small painted-brick church (1625). If instead you turn left along Str Costache Negri, you'll come to the 19th-century Bărboi Monastery. The church was built in 1841 on the site of a 17th-century church. Not only is the trompe l'oeil–painted interior worth a lingering gander, but the grounds are…
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Moldavian Metropolitan Cathedral
The hectic, tree-lined B-dul Ştefan cel Mare leads directly southeast from Piaţa Unirii to the monumental Palace of Culture. Along this way is the prominent Moldavian Metropolitan Cathedral. With a cavernous interior painted by Gheorghe Tattarescu, it's Romania's largest Orthodox cathedral and thus a busy place of worship.
You can forget seeing its interior during Iaşi Days, when most of Moldavia's able-bodied pilgrims flock here to stand in line day and night for the chance to view the body of their beloved St Paraschiva, the patron saint of the cathedral and Moldavia, whose body is trundled out for this brief period each year. Additionally, the cathedral has a coffin…
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Church of the Three Hierarchs
The boulevard's main attraction is the fabulous Church of the Three Hierarchs , which is currently suffering from acute scaffolding-itis both inside and out, due to years'-long painstaking restoration. Fortunately, the unique exterior, embroidered in a wealth of intricate patterns in stone, can be appreciated – if not satisfactorily photographed – through the obscuration. In its original form, the exterior was covered in gold, silver and lapis. Built in 1637–39 by Prince Vasile Lupu, ostensibly to buy his way into heaven, it was damaged by Tartar attacks in 1650, but its dizzying mix of western Gothic, Renaissance and eastern motifs has been carefully restored.
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Mihai Eminescu Museum of Literature
Nearby is the Mihai Eminescu Museum of Literature, housed in a distressingly modern white building. The museum recalls the life and loves of Eminescu, Romania's most cherished writer and poet. Though he was married, his great love was Veronica Micle, herself married to a vicar. They outlived their spouses but never married each other due to Eminescu's deteriorating health - he also considered himself too poor to offer Veronica what she deserved (sniff, sniff).
A bust of Veronica faces another of her lover and his favourite linden tree at the end of Junimea Alley in the park.
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Golia Monastery
The fortified Golia Monastery , built in late-Renaissance style and surrounded by rose gardens, is definitely worth a visit. The monastery's walls and the 30m-high tower at the entrance shelter a weathered 17th-century church, noted for its vibrant Byzantine frescoes and intricately carved doorways. The bastions of the surrounding wall were added in 1667. The complex was damaged by fire several times and closed completely between 1900 and 1947. It regained monastery status in 1992 and is still undergoing major reconstruction.
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Museum of Old Moldavian Literature
In front of the palace on Piaţa Palatul Culturii is an equestrian statue of Ştefan cel Mare, unveiled in 1883. A memorial to Iaşi's heroes who died in 1989 stands by the entrance to the palace grounds. Opposite is the Museum of Old Moldavian Literature , housed inside the 17th-century Dosoftei House. Dosoftei was the metropolitan ruler of Moldavia between 1670 and 1686 and was responsible for printing the first church liturgy in the Romanian language (1679).
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Trei Sarmale
Revel in your touristness! This traditional Romanian restaurant embraces kitsch with its folkier-than-thou décor and live music, but the food is mouthwatering. Set inside a 17th-century inn about 5km south of the town centre, this could be a fun place for a small group if you get into the mood. The Bucium winery outlet shed is across the road. Call before you head out there as it is often booked by tour groups.
Take a taxi or bus 30 or 46 from Piaţa Mihai Eminescu and ask the driver for Trei Sarmale.
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Family Pizza
Family Pizza With the rest of Europe gaily butchering pizza – Italy notwithstanding, obviously – you might not expect Romania to be home to some of the best pizza in the world. Family Pizza stands out, offering 25 types of pizza and an adjoining pastry shop. The terrace is the perfect summertime hangout, while waitresses in dangerously short skirts serve up pizza heaven to a backdrop of Romanian pop music. Delivery service available.
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Piaţa Unirii
Standing in the ubiquitous Piaţa Unirii, start your tour by sidling into the newly refurbished Hotel Unirea and taking the elevator to the lucky 13th floor cafeteria where - weather permitting - you'll be able to identify many of the city's notable landmarks all the way to the hill-top monasteries on the southern outskirts. In front of Hotel Unirea stands a bronze statue of Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza (1820-73), unifier of Wallachia and Moldavia.
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Opera Română
Vasile Alecsandri National Theatre and the Opera Românăare in the same impressive neo-baroque building. Alternative performances are held in the smaller studio hall (sală studio) upstairs, which has its entrance on Str Cuza Vodă. For advance bookings go to the Agenţia de Opera . Tickets cost from €1.50, with 50% student discounts.
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Botanical Gardens
Iaşi is home to Romania's first and largest Botanical Gardens, on the western side of Parcul Exposiţiei. Dating from 1856, they offer 21km of shady lanes, rose and orchid gardens, greenhouses, natural springs and a lake. Also on the grounds is Vasile Lupu's 'Church of the Living' (1638). While the landscaping isn't winning any awards, these are the city's premier strolling and picnicking grounds.
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Museum of 17th-century Frescoes
Inside the Church of the Three Hierarchs are the marble tombs of Prince Vasile Lupu (natch) and his family (to the left), Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza (to the right), and Moldavian prince Dimitrie Cantemir. The adjacent Gothic hall is a Museum of 17th-century frescoes. In 1994 the church reopened as a monastery. The three saints are celebrated here on 30 January with an all-monk choir performance.
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Casa Pogor
Where to sit? In the insanely cosy (if damp) basement that used to house the famed Junimea wine cellar; the elegant main dining hall furnished with antiques; or on the multi-tiered terrace overlooking a quiet square? Focus on the great atmosphere and ignore the dreadful service. While not extraordinary, the food is good and the menu (with some veggie meals) unexpectedly varied.
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Copou Park
Further north is Copou Park, laid out between 1834 and 1848 during the princely reign of Mihail Sturza. Poet Mihai Eminescu (1850-89) allegedly wrote some of his best works beneath his favourite linden tree in this park. The tree still stands, behind a 13m-high monument of lions opposite the main entrance to the park. A bronze bust of Eminescu sits in front of it.
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Pogor House Literary Museum
The Pogor House Literary Museum , Vasile Pogor's 1850s mansion, is where meetings of the literary society were held from 1871. On its lovely grounds stand rows of busts of some of the more eminent members of the society, including dramatist Ion Luca Caragiale (1852–1912) and poet Vasile Alecsandri (1821–90).
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Casa Lavric
Up the hill from Casa Bolta Rece is one of Iaşi's newest dining options, owned by singer-musician Laura Lavric and decorated in classic musical instruments. The menu – including a short vegetarian page – is devoid of English, but the staff's language skills more than make up for this. Reservations required on weekends.
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Caraffa
The menu offers Italian and Mexican, but you should aim for the Romanian dishes and the salads, which are startlingly fresh. Try the Tochitura Moldovenesca - roughly 'Moldovan Heart Attack' - with pork, traditional cheese, polenta, eggs, bacon and sausage. Time of death…
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Philharmonic
When the much-revered Iaşi State Philharmonic Orchestra is in town its concerts are massively popular; it performs 200 concerts per season, across Romania and abroad. Concerts of some kind are usually held on Friday nights. Tickets start at €2 with 50% student discounts.
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St Spiridon's Monastery
One block west at B-dul Independenţei 33 is St Spiridon's Monastery. The body of Grigore Ghica III, killed in 1777 for opposing the Turks, lies inside the monastical complex, minus the head, which presumably came to rest in the sultan's sitting room.
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Pub Baron
It looks like a pub, with its cosy wooden interior impregnated with beer suds, but it's also a great eating option, particularly the summer terrace. The menu is heavy on fresh grills, cooked in brick ovens, but there are many salads and fish dishes too.
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Swimming pool
There's a serviceable swimming pool around the corner from Hotel Moldova. Lake Ciric, at the city limits on the road to the airport, may look innocuous, but the water is generally too dirty for a proper swim.
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Theatre
Vasile Alecsandri National Theatre and the Opera Română are in the same impressive neobaroque building. Alternative performances are held in the smaller studio hall (sală studio) upstairs, which has its entrance on Str Cuza Vodă.
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Central Market
The Central Market is your fresh fruit and vegetables source. Below street level, it has entrances on Str Costache Negri and Str Anastasie Panu (look for the glass dome). There's a small supermarket above in Hala Centrala.
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Palace of Culture
At the southern end of B-dul Ştefan cel Mare stands the giant neo-Gothic Palace of Culture . Although many of the 365 rooms are closed to visitors, a combined ticket allows entry to its four museums.
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