Sights in Moldavia
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St Sava's Monastery
From Golia Monastery, head south along Str Armeană. On the right at No 22 you'll pass a small stone-and-brick Armenian Church (Biserica Armeană; 1395), considered the oldest church in Iaşi. Extensive renovations – which have begun anew – have stripped off most of the original Armenian architecture. At the southern end of Str Armeană, turn right to St Sava's Monastery , a small painted-brick church (1625). If instead you turn left along Str Costache Negri, you'll come to the 19th-century Bărboi Monastery. The church was built in 1841 on the site of a 17th-century church. Not only is the trompe l'oeil–painted interior worth a lingering gander, but the grounds are r…
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Moldavian Metropolitan Cathedral
The hectic, tree-lined B-dul Ştefan cel Mare leads directly southeast from Piaţa Unirii to the monumental Palace of Culture. Along this way is the prominent Moldavian Metropolitan Cathedral. With a cavernous interior painted by Gheorghe Tattarescu, it's Romania's largest Orthodox cathedral and thus a busy place of worship.
You can forget seeing its interior during Iaşi Days, when most of Moldavia's able-bodied pilgrims flock here to stand in line day and night for the chance to view the body of their beloved St Paraschiva, the patron saint of the cathedral and Moldavia, whose body is trundled out for this brief period each year. Additionally, the cathedral has a coffin …
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Church of the Three Hierarchs
The boulevard's main attraction is the fabulous Church of the Three Hierarchs , which is currently suffering from acute scaffolding-itis both inside and out, due to years'-long painstaking restoration. Fortunately, the unique exterior, embroidered in a wealth of intricate patterns in stone, can be appreciated – if not satisfactorily photographed – through the obscuration. In its original form, the exterior was covered in gold, silver and lapis. Built in 1637–39 by Prince Vasile Lupu, ostensibly to buy his way into heaven, it was damaged by Tartar attacks in 1650, but its dizzying mix of western Gothic, Renaissance and eastern motifs has been carefully restored.
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Mihai Eminescu Museum of Literature
Nearby is the Mihai Eminescu Museum of Literature, housed in a distressingly modern white building. The museum recalls the life and loves of Eminescu, Romania's most cherished writer and poet. Though he was married, his great love was Veronica Micle, herself married to a vicar. They outlived their spouses but never married each other due to Eminescu's deteriorating health - he also considered himself too poor to offer Veronica what she deserved (sniff, sniff).
A bust of Veronica faces another of her lover and his favourite linden tree at the end of Junimea Alley in the park.
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Golia Monastery
The fortified Golia Monastery , built in late-Renaissance style and surrounded by rose gardens, is definitely worth a visit. The monastery's walls and the 30m-high tower at the entrance shelter a weathered 17th-century church, noted for its vibrant Byzantine frescoes and intricately carved doorways. The bastions of the surrounding wall were added in 1667. The complex was damaged by fire several times and closed completely between 1900 and 1947. It regained monastery status in 1992 and is still undergoing major reconstruction.
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Museum of Old Moldavian Literature
In front of the palace on Piaţa Palatul Culturii is an equestrian statue of Ştefan cel Mare, unveiled in 1883. A memorial to Iaşi's heroes who died in 1989 stands by the entrance to the palace grounds. Opposite is the Museum of Old Moldavian Literature , housed inside the 17th-century Dosoftei House. Dosoftei was the metropolitan ruler of Moldavia between 1670 and 1686 and was responsible for printing the first church liturgy in the Romanian language (1679).
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Piaţa Unirii
Standing in the ubiquitous Piaţa Unirii, start your tour by sidling into the newly refurbished Hotel Unirea and taking the elevator to the lucky 13th floor cafeteria where - weather permitting - you'll be able to identify many of the city's notable landmarks all the way to the hill-top monasteries on the southern outskirts. In front of Hotel Unirea stands a bronze statue of Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza (1820-73), unifier of Wallachia and Moldavia.
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Botanical Gardens
Iaşi is home to Romania's first and largest Botanical Gardens, on the western side of Parcul Exposiţiei. Dating from 1856, they offer 21km of shady lanes, rose and orchid gardens, greenhouses, natural springs and a lake. Also on the grounds is Vasile Lupu's 'Church of the Living' (1638). While the landscaping isn't winning any awards, these are the city's premier strolling and picnicking grounds.
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Museum of 17th-century Frescoes
Inside the Church of the Three Hierarchs are the marble tombs of Prince Vasile Lupu (natch) and his family (to the left), Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza (to the right), and Moldavian prince Dimitrie Cantemir. The adjacent Gothic hall is a Museum of 17th-century frescoes. In 1994 the church reopened as a monastery. The three saints are celebrated here on 30 January with an all-monk choir performance.
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Copou Park
Further north is Copou Park, laid out between 1834 and 1848 during the princely reign of Mihail Sturza. Poet Mihai Eminescu (1850-89) allegedly wrote some of his best works beneath his favourite linden tree in this park. The tree still stands, behind a 13m-high monument of lions opposite the main entrance to the park. A bronze bust of Eminescu sits in front of it.
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Pogor House Literary Museum
The Pogor House Literary Museum , Vasile Pogor's 1850s mansion, is where meetings of the literary society were held from 1871. On its lovely grounds stand rows of busts of some of the more eminent members of the society, including dramatist Ion Luca Caragiale (1852–1912) and poet Vasile Alecsandri (1821–90).
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St Spiridon's Monastery
One block west at B-dul Independenţei 33 is St Spiridon's Monastery. The body of Grigore Ghica III, killed in 1777 for opposing the Turks, lies inside the monastical complex, minus the head, which presumably came to rest in the sultan's sitting room.
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Palace of Culture
At the southern end of B-dul Ştefan cel Mare stands the giant neo-Gothic Palace of Culture . Although many of the 365 rooms are closed to visitors, a combined ticket allows entry to its four museums.
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Natural History Museum
The Natural History Museum has a modest collection of stuffed beasties, in addition to hosting travelling exhibitions.
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