Lonely Planet – Roads Less Travelled

Roads Less Travelled - Ethiopia

Lonely Planet writer Katharina Kane blazes a trail through Ethiopia, a country that's known more for its droughts and desolation than its awesome tourist drawcards. Her journey begins in Harar with a drug-fuelled all-night-trance vigil in the holiest Islamic city in Africa, and ends among thousands of Orthodox pilgrims on the shores of Lake Tana paying homage to a woman who tried to save the soul of the devil. Along the way she gets an insight into the courting rituals of the fearsome Afar nomads, goes in search of a three-million-year-old ancestor and meets a septuagenarian gent carving a church out of rock armed with nothing but a pickaxe.

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Stories and photos from Katharina's trip

Lonely Planet: Roads Less Travelled Ethiopia itinerary
Follow Katharina's itinerary from Harar, west to Mille then south to Lake Tana and Addis Ababa.
Harar's prayer-trance ceremony
Katharina visits the hyena-prowled city of Harar for a chat-fuelled night of song and prayer.
The Bati Camel Market
In Bati's livestock market, Katherina learns that a strong camel has strong teeth, among other things.
The Festival of Kristos Samra
Follow Katharina's pilgrimage to Ethiopia's holy churches for the festival of Kristos Samra.
Hiking the Meket escarpment
Join Katharina for a raw-boned jaunt high into Ethiopia's stunning Meket escarpment.