Things to do in Réunion
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Le Maïdo
Far above St-Gilles-les-Bains on the rim of the Cirque de Mafate, Le Maïdo is one of the most impressive viewpoints in Réunion. The lookout is perched atop the mountain peak at 2205m (7232ft) and offers stunning views down into the cirque and back to the coast. Arrive early in the day if you want to see anything other than cloud.
The name Le Maïdo comes from a Malagasy word meaning 'burnt land', and is most likely a reference to the burnt appearance of the scrub forest at this altitude. The peak is the starting point for the tough walk along the cirque rim to the summit of Le Grand Bénare (2896m/9501ft), another impressive lookout (allow at least six hours for the retur…
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Colonial Buildings
Colourful St-Pierre is easily seen in a day on foot. You'll find a scattering of colonial buildings in the centre, including the old Hôtel de Ville, which started life as a coffee warehouse for the French East India Company during the 18th century. The old colonial-era train station is now occupied by a nightclub. Nearby is the Bassin de Radout, a dry dock dating from the 19th century. Another must-see is the entrepôt Kervéguen, which was used as a warehouse by the French East India Company.
In the same area, keep your eyes peeled for the médiathèque Raphaël Barquisseau, another building dating from the thriving era of the French East India Company. There are many othe…
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Cirque de Salazie
The Cirque de Salazie, accessed by road from St-André on the northeast coast, is busier and more varied than the Cirque de Cilaos. The vegetation is incredibly lush and waterfalls tumble down the mountains, even over the road in places - Salazie is the wettest of the three cirques and has the dubious distinction of holding several world records for rainfall.
For real thrill seekers, there's the exhilaration of canyoning, which challenges you to abseil down the steep walls of canyons using natural watercourses. The canyons along this stretch are suitable for all levels. The sport, however, is very vulnerable to the vagaries of the weather, so venues change according to th…
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Musée de Villèle
This museum is set in the former home of the wealthy and very powerful Madame Panon-Desbassyns, a coffee and sugar baroness who, among other things, owned 300 slaves. The house, which is only accessible on a guided tour, was built in 1787 and is full of elegant period furniture. After the tour, wander the outbuildings and the 10-hectare (25-acre) park.
Legend has it that she was a cruel woman and that her tormented screams can still be heard from the hellish fires whenever Piton de la Fournaise is erupting. Exhibits include a clock presented to the Desbassyns by Napoleon; a set of china featuring Paul et Virginie, the love story by Bernardin de St-Pierre; and, last but no…
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Religious Buildings
After having succumbed to all-night carousing and luscious cuisine in St-Pierre, you might want to repent your sins. Head straight to the charming St-Pierre church (Rue Auguste Babet) if you are Catholic, to the splendid mosque (Rue François de Mahy) if you're Muslim, to the impressive Hindu temple (Ravine Blanche) if you are Hindu, and to the discreet Chinese temple (Rue Marius et Ary Leblond) if you are Buddhist.
But if, like us, you are a hedonist beyond redemption, you might rather lounge on the white-sand beach!
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Cemetery
This cemetery contains the grave of the African sorcerer, Le Sitarane, is still a popular pilgrimage spot for Réunionnais who believe in gris gris or black magic. The grave is on the right-hand side at the west end of the cemetery and is covertly used for black magic rites by people looking to bring misfortune upon others. It's usually covered with many offerings, from glasses of rum, candles and pieces of red cloth, to neat and tidy rows of cigarettes and even the occasional beheaded rooster!
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Le Barachois
The place to promenade in St-Denis is Le Barachois. This seafront park, lined by cannons facing out to sea, has an area set aside for pétanque (a game similar to bowls), cafés and a monument to the Réunion-born aviator Roland Garros, leaning nonchalantly on a propeller. Garros was the first pilot to cross the Mediterranean. Shady Pl Sarda Garriga, across the road, was named after the governor who abolished slavery in Réunion in 1848.
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Musée Léon Dierx
St-Denis' strong point is its buildings, rather than its museums, but it's worth popping your head into the rewarding Musée Léon Dierx. Housed in the former bishop's palace, built in 1845, it hosts Réunion's most important collection of modern art. The more high-profile works include paintings, sculptures and ceramics by Picasso, Renoir, Gauguin and Vlaminck, but the majority are by local artists such as the poet and painter Léon Dierx (1838-1912).
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L'Atelier de Ben
A true alchemist, the French chef here fuses French with Asian to create a cuisine that stuns and seduces. The filet de bœuf poêlé, pain perdu aux truffes, wok de légumes et noisettes torréfiées (beef fillet served with a special truffle-scented bread, wok-fried vegetables and roasted hazelnuts) is even more delicious than its poetic name suggests. The décor? Best described as 'contemporary plain'.
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Jardin de l'État
If you're in search of a shady haven where you can flake out, head to the attractive Jardin de l'État, at the southern end of Rue de Paris. It features numerous plants used in the manufacture of perfume, tropical oddities from around the world and lots of orchids. At the far end of the gardens stands the somewhat austere Palais Législatif, dating from 1834, which houses the Musée d'Histoire Naturelle.
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Felix ULM
If you really want to feel the wind in your hair, several outfits offer tandem microlight flights with a qualified instructor. They run about 10 different tours around the island, from gentle tours above the lagoon to tours of the three Cirques. If the volcano is active, they usually run a Spécial Volcan tour, taking in the volcano in eruption. This tour operator is based in Cambaie, near St-Paul.
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Kaz Vitamines
This quirky juice den just off the main drag is perfect to recover from a hangover. It serves smoothies, vegetable and fruit concoctions, and if you've reached your carri-eating limits, there is a cold veggie soup (around €4) or a salad. Try the explosively fruity (and eye-poppingly purple) cocktail La Kaz, which is a mix of pitaya, banana and lime.
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The Creole Houses
Saint-Denis has some splendid Creole houses, often with big open varangues (verandas) and delicate lambrequins (carved wood cornices) on their eaves and window frames. Most are found on the Rue de Paris, between Rue Rontaunay and the Government Park. Especially fine specimens include the Joinville Hôtel, with its Tuscan colonnades, and Deramond-Barre House.
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Flagrant Délice
The hippest eatery at the time of writing, Flagrant Délice is a gourmand's playpen. Be good to yourself with kangaroo fillet with onion chutney, John Dory fillet, beef with morels and luscious wines. Try to nab a seat at the 'Petit Coin Exotique' (little exotic corner), complete with cushions, by the pool (yes, the pool is an integral part of the décor).
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Creole Buildings
Architecture and history buffs should take a look at the town's appealing Creole buildings. They date back as far as the 1840s, when Hell-Bourg was a famous resort town and when it attracted a rather well-heeled crowd. You can go on a guided tour (in French) organised by the tourist office or the Écomusée; it takes about an hour and costs around €4.
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Helilagon
Helilagon, based at L'Éperon, in the hills above St-Gilles-les-Bains, offers three different helicopter tours, including a 45-minute flight above all three Cirques and Piton de la Fournaise (around €260 per person, or around €220 without doing the volcano). Prices include transfers to the heliport from hotels in St-Gilles-les-Bains.
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La Récré
Set in a courtyard that opens onto a busy street (but a hedge of tropical plants protects you from the hustle and bustle), La Récré is a popular joint for informal dining, with a wide-ranging menu focussing on fish and meat dishes. If you want to impress (or shock) your friends at home, order a tartare de cheval (horse tartare).
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Le Reflet des Îles
This much-lauded eatery specialising in Creole food is the perfect place to try out cuisine lontan (traditional dishes). Dip into one of 15 cracking carris (curries) and civets (stews). The menu is translated in English - a rarity in Réunion. The waiters play the tropical-island card with their snazzy shirts.
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L'Igloo
One day we were unfaithful to Le Castel Glacier and had an ice-creamy affair with L'Igloo, unable to resist the phenomenally creamy fruits des bois ice-cream concoction. It's equally adept at serving up omelettes, fish dishes and salads. True to its name, the refreshing décor screams 'Antarctica', with white-and-blue murals.
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Maison Folio
One of the loveliest of Hell-Bourg's Creole houses is Maison Folio, a typical 19th-century bourgeois villa almost engulfed by its densely planted garden. The owners show you around, pointing out the amazing variety of aromatic, edible, medicinal and decorative plants, and give insights into local culture - unfortunately, only in French.
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Le Castel Glacier
We lost all self-control at this talismanic ice-cream parlour a short waddle away from Castel Boulanger (same management). Just thinking of chocolate makes us salivate; you don't want to know what happens when we recall the fèves du Tonka (a variety of cocoa). Also serves up snack options, including salads, at lunchtime.
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Cyclone Café
Like bees to Bacardi, students (and the odd grizzled geezer) swarm on this pub-like, beer-friendly watering hole when live bands perform certain evenings. Good blend of electro, maloya (traditional dance music of Réunion), hardtek and drum 'n' bass. A small pression (draft beer) costs around €3.
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Cascade du Voile de la Mariée
Further along the same route from Le Point du Jour, just north of the turn-off to Grand Îlet, don't miss the Cascade du Voile de la Mariée. These towering falls drop in several stages from the often cloud-obscured heights into the ravine at the roadside. You get an even better view from the Grand Îlet road.
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L'Osteria
Mamma mia! Italian food does not always suit the tropics but this Mediterranean redoubt set in a rustic stone house fits the bill. Pasta offerings span carbonara through to tasty spaghetti with smoked swordfish, as well as pizzas dense enough to drown grandpa's dentures. Satisfying grilled meats too.
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Notre-Dame de la Délivrance
St-Denis is home to some attractive religious buildings, including the 1893 church, the Notre-Dame de la Délivrance, which sits on the hillside across the usually dry Rivière St-Denis. It's noteworthy for the statue of the unusual saint St Expédit just inside the door, dressed as a young Roman soldier.
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