Things to do in St Pierre
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Colonial Buildings
Colourful St-Pierre is easily seen in a day on foot. You'll find a scattering of colonial buildings in the centre, including the old Hôtel de Ville, which started life as a coffee warehouse for the French East India Company during the 18th century. The old colonial-era train station is now occupied by a nightclub. Nearby is the Bassin de Radout, a dry dock dating from the 19th century. Another must-see is the entrepôt Kervéguen, which was used as a warehouse by the French East India Company.
In the same area, keep your eyes peeled for the médiathèque Raphaël Barquisseau, another building dating from the thriving era of the French East India Company. There are many othe…
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Religious Buildings
After having succumbed to all-night carousing and luscious cuisine in St-Pierre, you might want to repent your sins. Head straight to the charming St-Pierre church (Rue Auguste Babet) if you are Catholic, to the splendid mosque (Rue François de Mahy) if you're Muslim, to the impressive Hindu temple (Ravine Blanche) if you are Hindu, and to the discreet Chinese temple (Rue Marius et Ary Leblond) if you are Buddhist.
But if, like us, you are a hedonist beyond redemption, you might rather lounge on the white-sand beach!
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Cemetery
This cemetery contains the grave of the African sorcerer, Le Sitarane, is still a popular pilgrimage spot for Réunionnais who believe in gris gris or black magic. The grave is on the right-hand side at the west end of the cemetery and is covertly used for black magic rites by people looking to bring misfortune upon others. It's usually covered with many offerings, from glasses of rum, candles and pieces of red cloth, to neat and tidy rows of cigarettes and even the occasional beheaded rooster!
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Kaz Vitamines
This quirky juice den just off the main drag is perfect to recover from a hangover. It serves smoothies, vegetable and fruit concoctions, and if you've reached your carri-eating limits, there is a cold veggie soup (around €4) or a salad. Try the explosively fruity (and eye-poppingly purple) cocktail La Kaz, which is a mix of pitaya, banana and lime.
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Flagrant Délice
The hippest eatery at the time of writing, Flagrant Délice is a gourmand's playpen. Be good to yourself with kangaroo fillet with onion chutney, John Dory fillet, beef with morels and luscious wines. Try to nab a seat at the 'Petit Coin Exotique' (little exotic corner), complete with cushions, by the pool (yes, the pool is an integral part of the décor).
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L'Osteria
Mamma mia! Italian food does not always suit the tropics but this Mediterranean redoubt set in a rustic stone house fits the bill. Pasta offerings span carbonara through to tasty spaghetti with smoked swordfish, as well as pizzas dense enough to drown grandpa's dentures. Satisfying grilled meats too.
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Le Pétrel de Barau
Cognoscenti saunter here for upper-crust French-inspired fare with a creative bent, a respectable wine list and smart service. The masterfully renovated Creole house provides the perfect setting in which to sample star-worthy dishes such as beef fillet with truffle vinegar. Room should be kept for desserts.
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Festi Viandes
In a city where fish dishes are the norm, this meat-lover's paradise, discreetly located on the 1st floor of an unremarkable building, is a happy exception. Sink your teeth into a juicy beefsteak or a succulent brochette (skewered meat). Enough proteins? Wood-fired pizzas are also available.
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L'Africa Queen
If there's a constant here, it's the promise that the music, whatever the style, will get you groovin'. DJs roll through salsa, hip-hop, house, electro and soul but always find a way to keep the dance floor filled. Heart-start the night with a few shots at Café de la Gare, in the same building.
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Le Flamboyant
In this staunchly Creole classic, blow your tastebuds (and your arteries) with one of 15 hearty carris. Be brave and try the carri pat' cochon (pig's trotter carri). You might surprise yourself. Sample the whole thing on the terrace in the shade of a stately flamboyant tree.
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Le Rétro
Of all the things you might not expect to see on the seafront, an 'authentic' Parisian brasserie ranks quite highly. But that's exactly what this is, except that serveurs are less surly than in the City of Light. Pastas, salads, seafood and meat dishes grace the menu.
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Café de la Gare - Latina Café
One of the most atmospheric spots for a drink is the terrace of this café in the old train station. In the evening it transforms into a convivial bar. It's full of attitude and atmosphere; booze it up with new friends or spend a quiet hour to yourself, people-watching.
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Le Carpe Diem
Another dash of culinary flair in cosy surrounds (parquet floors and teak furniture), the Carpe Diem offers ambitious French-inspired dishes with a twist, from souris d'agneau au thym (a choice piece of lamb flavoured with thyme) to skewered duck with banana.
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Aloha
There is an argument for skipping dessert wherever you lunch or dine and heading straight to this drool-inducing ice-cream parlour instead. Amid a mind-boggling array of flavours, the electric purple pitaya screams 'try me'. Lip-smackingly good pancakes too.
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La Détente
No culinary acrobatics in this few-frills haunt overlooking a parking lot, just keep-the-faith Creole staples, including a very affordable carri bichiques (a curry made from tiny sprat-like fish; around €15) in season.
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Jet Set Bar
The ultimate chill-out bar by day, this place is equally enjoyable by night on weekends when groovy DJs take over with deep and chill house, electronica and other beats, depending on their whim. It's cool, funky and low-key at the same time.
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St-Pierre Covered Market
During the week there's a covered market under a hall in the town centre. Alongside fresh fruit and vegetables, stalls sell souvenirs such as local spices and herbs, vacoa bags and the usual assortment of Malagasy crafts.
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Le Marin Bleu
This immutable seafood favourite in the Terre Sainte district gets the thumbs up for its choice of fish dishes cooked to crispy perfection. The loosely nautical décor, with a blue-and-white colour scheme, matches the menu.
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Belo Horizonte
Walls saturated in cheery coloured accents - baby-pink, citrus, apple-green - and other fancy decorative touches set the tone of this zinging quick-eat joint where you can tuck into salads, hot tarts and other healthy dishes.
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Khalif
One of the hottest spots in St-Pierre when we dropped by. If you're after maloya, séga or some sexy tropical sounds, look no further than Khalif. Same location as Café de la Gare.
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Base Nautique de St-Pierre
Kayaking, sailing and diving can be arranged through Base Nautique de St-Pierre. Kayaking and sailing are usually on Wednesday's and Saturday's and guided trips cost around €15 per hour.
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St-Pierre Main Market
No trip to St-Pierre would be complete without a wander through the main market, which takes place on Saturday morning and sprawls along the seafront at the west end of Blvd Hubert-Delisle.
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Terre Sainte District
It's well worth exploring the Terre Sainte district, to the east of the centre. Though no longer the traditional fishing village it used to be, this area has its own peculiar appeal.
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L'Utopia
Good atmosphere and affordable prices were let down by some sketchy service and skimpy daily specials when we visited L'Utopia. Chef's day off perhaps? You be the judge.
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Malone's
St-Pierre's long-standing hip, hot (it gets congested) and happening spot on weekends. Swill a beer or two to imbibe the feel-good vibe before hitting the clubs.
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