Things to do in St Denis
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Le Barachois
The place to promenade in St-Denis is Le Barachois. This seafront park, lined by cannons facing out to sea, has an area set aside for pétanque (a game similar to bowls), cafés and a monument to the Réunion-born aviator Roland Garros, leaning nonchalantly on a propeller. Garros was the first pilot to cross the Mediterranean. Shady Pl Sarda Garriga, across the road, was named after the governor who abolished slavery in Réunion in 1848.
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Musée Léon Dierx
St-Denis' strong point is its buildings, rather than its museums, but it's worth popping your head into the rewarding Musée Léon Dierx. Housed in the former bishop's palace, built in 1845, it hosts Réunion's most important collection of modern art. The more high-profile works include paintings, sculptures and ceramics by Picasso, Renoir, Gauguin and Vlaminck, but the majority are by local artists such as the poet and painter Léon Dierx (1838-1912).
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L'Atelier de Ben
A true alchemist, the French chef here fuses French with Asian to create a cuisine that stuns and seduces. The filet de bœuf poêlé, pain perdu aux truffes, wok de légumes et noisettes torréfiées (beef fillet served with a special truffle-scented bread, wok-fried vegetables and roasted hazelnuts) is even more delicious than its poetic name suggests. The décor? Best described as 'contemporary plain'.
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Jardin de l'État
If you're in search of a shady haven where you can flake out, head to the attractive Jardin de l'État, at the southern end of Rue de Paris. It features numerous plants used in the manufacture of perfume, tropical oddities from around the world and lots of orchids. At the far end of the gardens stands the somewhat austere Palais Législatif, dating from 1834, which houses the Musée d'Histoire Naturelle.
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The Creole Houses
Saint-Denis has some splendid Creole houses, often with big open varangues (verandas) and delicate lambrequins (carved wood cornices) on their eaves and window frames. Most are found on the Rue de Paris, between Rue Rontaunay and the Government Park. Especially fine specimens include the Joinville Hôtel, with its Tuscan colonnades, and Deramond-Barre House.
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La Récré
Set in a courtyard that opens onto a busy street (but a hedge of tropical plants protects you from the hustle and bustle), La Récré is a popular joint for informal dining, with a wide-ranging menu focussing on fish and meat dishes. If you want to impress (or shock) your friends at home, order a tartare de cheval (horse tartare).
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Le Reflet des Îles
This much-lauded eatery specialising in Creole food is the perfect place to try out cuisine lontan (traditional dishes). Dip into one of 15 cracking carris (curries) and civets (stews). The menu is translated in English - a rarity in Réunion. The waiters play the tropical-island card with their snazzy shirts.
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L'Igloo
One day we were unfaithful to Le Castel Glacier and had an ice-creamy affair with L'Igloo, unable to resist the phenomenally creamy fruits des bois ice-cream concoction. It's equally adept at serving up omelettes, fish dishes and salads. True to its name, the refreshing décor screams 'Antarctica', with white-and-blue murals.
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Le Castel Glacier
We lost all self-control at this talismanic ice-cream parlour a short waddle away from Castel Boulanger (same management). Just thinking of chocolate makes us salivate; you don't want to know what happens when we recall the fèves du Tonka (a variety of cocoa). Also serves up snack options, including salads, at lunchtime.
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Cyclone Café
Like bees to Bacardi, students (and the odd grizzled geezer) swarm on this pub-like, beer-friendly watering hole when live bands perform certain evenings. Good blend of electro, maloya (traditional dance music of Réunion), hardtek and drum 'n' bass. A small pression (draft beer) costs around €3.
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Notre-Dame de la Délivrance
St-Denis is home to some attractive religious buildings, including the 1893 church, the Notre-Dame de la Délivrance, which sits on the hillside across the usually dry Rivière St-Denis. It's noteworthy for the statue of the unusual saint St Expédit just inside the door, dressed as a young Roman soldier.
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Le DCP
If you have a weakness for ultrafresh fish, Le DCP is the place to indulge. The décor is another clincher: it occupies a restored Creole building with an agreeable terrace. Inside, aquatic murals and shades of blue and white create a 20,000-leagues-under-the-sea-like ambience.
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Grande Mosquée
Smack bang in the centre, it's impossible to miss the Grande Mosquée, also known as the Noor-E-Islam mosque. The cool white-and-green interior is a haven of peace. The Islamic community in St-Denis is very traditional, so if you wish to visit, dress and behave with respect.
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Le Roland Garros
Le Roland Garros Oh la la, this heavenly place has the feel of a true Parisian bistro - packed, buzzing and full of attitude. You can't really go wrong - everything is pretty good - but if you want a recommendation, go for the tartare de poisson (fish tartare).
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Le Massalé
Another divine tooth-killer is this teeny outlet that tempts you with its colourful array of Indian snacks and sweets to eat in or take away. Perennial favourites include samosas as well as candy-pink or apple-green balfi. Wash it down with a glass of cardamom tea.
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La Cardamome
With its dramatic pink-and-green interior (no chubby Buddha by the door!), this little Indian joint has to be St-Denis' kookiest spot. Nothing beats its buffet featuring about 10 Indian offerings, a steal at around €8 at lunchtime. Takeaways available.
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Le Bar a Cas
A studenty in-the-know set favours this funky drinking spot with violet walls and a décor that distracts. Snag a seat on the buzzing street terrace or in the vivacious room. Feeling peckish? Keep up your strength with a beefsteak or an omelette.
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Préfecture
One of the grandest 19th century colonial buildings is the Préfecture, which stands proudly on the seafront. It began life as a coffee warehouse in 1734 and later served as the headquarters of the French East India Company.
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Musée d'Histoire Naturelle
Very little of Réunion's natural history survived long enough to make it into the museum, but there are a few displays of extinct and nearly extinct native species, including the Réunion owl, kestrel, parrot and ibis.
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Le Castel Boulanger
Hands-down the best bakery-deli in St-Denis, with such a tantalising array of brioches, croissants, macatias (a variety of buns) and sandwiches that we almost made ourselves a nuisance here. Excellent breakfasts too.
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Hindu Temple
St-Denis' small but wildly colourful Hindu Temple stands out among the shops east of the centre. If you wish to visit, remember to remove your shoes and any leather items. Photography is not allowed.
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Cathédrale de St-Denis
Worth a peek is the fairly unassuming, Tuscan-style Cathédrale de St-Denis. In contrast to the nearby Former Hôtel de Ville, the Cathédrale de St-Denis is a much more sober affair.
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Clos St-Jacques
Subdued lighting, elegant furnishings and a smattering of fancy decorative touches, including quirky replica of cicadas hanging on the walls, provide the perfect setting for a romantic dinner.
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Former Hôtel de Ville
Many consider the neoclassical Former Hôtel de Ville, to be the city's most beautiful building; it's certainly imposing, with its regimented columns, balustrades and jaunty clock tower.
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Le Castel Lounge Restaurant
Tastebuds are kept on the move at this ode to design - a sleek, loungey space with low-hanging table lights and cocoa-hued furnishings. It mostly serves up creative contemporary dishes.
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