Restaurants in Réunion
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L'Atelier de Ben
A true alchemist, the French chef here fuses French with Asian to create a cuisine that stuns and seduces. The filet de bœuf poêlé, pain perdu aux truffes, wok de légumes et noisettes torréfiées (beef fillet served with a special truffle-scented bread, wok-fried vegetables and roasted hazelnuts) is even more delicious than its poetic name suggests. The décor? Best described as 'contemporary plain'.
reviewed
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B
Kaz Vitamines
This quirky juice den just off the main drag is perfect to recover from a hangover. It serves smoothies, vegetable and fruit concoctions, and if you've reached your carri-eating limits, there is a cold veggie soup (around €4) or a salad. Try the explosively fruity (and eye-poppingly purple) cocktail La Kaz, which is a mix of pitaya, banana and lime.
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Flagrant Délice
The hippest eatery at the time of writing, Flagrant Délice is a gourmand's playpen. Be good to yourself with kangaroo fillet with onion chutney, John Dory fillet, beef with morels and luscious wines. Try to nab a seat at the 'Petit Coin Exotique' (little exotic corner), complete with cushions, by the pool (yes, the pool is an integral part of the décor).
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La Récré
Set in a courtyard that opens onto a busy street (but a hedge of tropical plants protects you from the hustle and bustle), La Récré is a popular joint for informal dining, with a wide-ranging menu focussing on fish and meat dishes. If you want to impress (or shock) your friends at home, order a tartare de cheval (horse tartare).
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Le Reflet des Îles
This much-lauded eatery specialising in Creole food is the perfect place to try out cuisine lontan (traditional dishes). Dip into one of 15 cracking carris (curries) and civets (stews). The menu is translated in English - a rarity in Réunion. The waiters play the tropical-island card with their snazzy shirts.
reviewed
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L'Igloo
One day we were unfaithful to Le Castel Glacier and had an ice-creamy affair with L'Igloo, unable to resist the phenomenally creamy fruits des bois ice-cream concoction. It's equally adept at serving up omelettes, fish dishes and salads. True to its name, the refreshing décor screams 'Antarctica', with white-and-blue murals.
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Le Castel Glacier
We lost all self-control at this talismanic ice-cream parlour a short waddle away from Castel Boulanger (same management). Just thinking of chocolate makes us salivate; you don't want to know what happens when we recall the fèves du Tonka (a variety of cocoa). Also serves up snack options, including salads, at lunchtime.
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L'Osteria
Mamma mia! Italian food does not always suit the tropics but this Mediterranean redoubt set in a rustic stone house fits the bill. Pasta offerings span carbonara through to tasty spaghetti with smoked swordfish, as well as pizzas dense enough to drown grandpa's dentures. Satisfying grilled meats too.
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Le Pétrel de Barau
Cognoscenti saunter here for upper-crust French-inspired fare with a creative bent, a respectable wine list and smart service. The masterfully renovated Creole house provides the perfect setting in which to sample star-worthy dishes such as beef fillet with truffle vinegar. Room should be kept for desserts.
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Festi Viandes
In a city where fish dishes are the norm, this meat-lover's paradise, discreetly located on the 1st floor of an unremarkable building, is a happy exception. Sink your teeth into a juicy beefsteak or a succulent brochette (skewered meat). Enough proteins? Wood-fired pizzas are also available.
reviewed
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Le Flamboyant
In this staunchly Creole classic, blow your tastebuds (and your arteries) with one of 15 hearty carris. Be brave and try the carri pat' cochon (pig's trotter carri). You might surprise yourself. Sample the whole thing on the terrace in the shade of a stately flamboyant tree.
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Ti Chou Chou
This small restaurant with its appealing colourful façade on the main drag is run by a friendly young team. Herbivores will opt for the assiette ti chou chou, which offers a combination of chou chou, cresson and capucine (all local vegetables).
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Le DCP
If you have a weakness for ultrafresh fish, Le DCP is the place to indulge. The décor is another clincher: it occupies a restored Creole building with an agreeable terrace. Inside, aquatic murals and shades of blue and white create a 20,000-leagues-under-the-sea-like ambience.
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Le Roland Garros
Le Roland Garros Oh la la, this heavenly place has the feel of a true Parisian bistro - packed, buzzing and full of attitude. You can't really go wrong - everything is pretty good - but if you want a recommendation, go for the tartare de poisson (fish tartare).
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Le Rétro
Of all the things you might not expect to see on the seafront, an 'authentic' Parisian brasserie ranks quite highly. But that's exactly what this is, except that serveurs are less surly than in the City of Light. Pastas, salads, seafood and meat dishes grace the menu.
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Le Massalé
Another divine tooth-killer is this teeny outlet that tempts you with its colourful array of Indian snacks and sweets to eat in or take away. Perennial favourites include samosas as well as candy-pink or apple-green balfi. Wash it down with a glass of cardamom tea.
reviewed
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Le Carpe Diem
Another dash of culinary flair in cosy surrounds (parquet floors and teak furniture), the Carpe Diem offers ambitious French-inspired dishes with a twist, from souris d'agneau au thym (a choice piece of lamb flavoured with thyme) to skewered duck with banana.
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Aloha
There is an argument for skipping dessert wherever you lunch or dine and heading straight to this drool-inducing ice-cream parlour instead. Amid a mind-boggling array of flavours, the electric purple pitaya screams 'try me'. Lip-smackingly good pancakes too.
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La Cardamome
With its dramatic pink-and-green interior (no chubby Buddha by the door!), this little Indian joint has to be St-Denis' kookiest spot. Nothing beats its buffet featuring about 10 Indian offerings, a steal at around €8 at lunchtime. Takeaways available.
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Snack Le Grand Îlet
Looks like nothing from the outside but this economical, neon-lit eatery is worth stopping at for its copious daily dishes (pork rib with mushrooms and chicken with brèdes). Find it just northwest of Grand Îlet's main square.
reviewed
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La Détente
No culinary acrobatics in this few-frills haunt overlooking a parking lot, just keep-the-faith Creole staples, including a very affordable carri bichiques (a curry made from tiny sprat-like fish; around €15) in season.
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Le Marin Bleu
This immutable seafood favourite in the Terre Sainte district gets the thumbs up for its choice of fish dishes cooked to crispy perfection. The loosely nautical décor, with a blue-and-white colour scheme, matches the menu.
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Le Castel Boulanger
Hands-down the best bakery-deli in St-Denis, with such a tantalising array of brioches, croissants, macatias (a variety of buns) and sandwiches that we almost made ourselves a nuisance here. Excellent breakfasts too.
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Belo Horizonte
Walls saturated in cheery coloured accents - baby-pink, citrus, apple-green - and other fancy decorative touches set the tone of this zinging quick-eat joint where you can tuck into salads, hot tarts and other healthy dishes.
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Clos St-Jacques
Subdued lighting, elegant furnishings and a smattering of fancy decorative touches, including quirky replica of cicadas hanging on the walls, provide the perfect setting for a romantic dinner.
reviewed
