Kitouni Guesthouse
Kitouni means, er, 'naked bum' in Creole.
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La Maison Du Lagon
This villa has a compact but respectable collection of various-sized rooms – try to snaffle a sea-facing one. The real bonus here is the location – it's les pieds dans l'eau (right by the beach). The pool is a bit of a joke, though.
La Médina Du Sud
There's nothing Moorish in this modern building by the turn-off for the beach, except the owner's origins. The six flats are characterless but fully equipped, well proportioned and perfectly serviceable, with the added bonus of a pool.
Hôtel L'ecrin
A cluster of small cottages scattered amid gardens that carpet a knoll. The furnishings are tired but it's functional and serviceable.
Hôtel Restaurant La Fournaise
There's a fresh feel in this modernish venture on the main road. Spruce rooms, shiny-clean toilets, air-con, an onsite restaurant and a pool are the order of the day here. The catch? It lacks charisma.
Hôtel Restaurant Le Baril
It's a shame. This hotel boasts a sensational location, right above the rocky shoreline, but it's in dire need of an overhaul and, as it is, can't be recommended. There are plans to renovate it extensively – check while you're there.
Hôtel Restaurant Les Géraniums
The Géraniums is a tad overrated but nonetheless of a good standard, especially if you nab a room with mountain views; avoid the rooms that overlook the parking lot. It's in Le Vingt-Quatrième on the main road south of Bourg-Murat.
Auberge De Grand Bassin
Has two doubles.
Auberge De Jeunesse
The most obvious choice if funds are short, this youth hostel occupies an enticing villa in a tranquil neighbourhood, about 3km from the centre (follow the Ravine des Citrons sign).
Auberge Piton Cabris – Charlemagne Libelle
Four four-bed dorms. Good views from the terrace.
Domaine De Malmany
If you want to feel close to nature, this isolated mountain getaway couldn't be more perfect. Sitting on a sloping terrain and clad in wood, it feels like a hunting chalet.
Domaine Des Fougères
The panoramic views and the secluded location, right at the start of the forest road, are the biggest perks to staying in this rural hotel with Creole architecture. Otherwise, the atmosphere is a bit staid with functional rooms.
Le Dalon Plage
It's au naturel at this hedonistic, gay-friendly place almost next door to Kitouni. Guests are allowed (if not incited) to swim naked in the gleaming pool.
Le Dimitile
This beautifully manicured haven is run with care by a couple from Alsace – saffron yellows on the facade, cosy reds on the floors, natural stones, a lovely pool – but it's missing something to bring it all together… something like soul.
Le Domaine Des Oiseaux
In this immaculate B&B occupying a massive villa not far from the seafront, the nine rooms exemplify functional simplicity with no knick-knacks to clutter things up, just painted walls as well as back-friendly beds.
Le Floralys – Caro Beach
This well-run three-star abode is set in a 3-hectare garden beside the roundabout in the middle of town. There's an onsite restaurant.
Ferme Auberge Desprairies
One of the best things about this inoffensive inn is the road to it, which travels through sugar-cane fields despite being only a couple of kilometres from the coast.
Ferme Auberge L'Écorce Blanc
The 600m-long access road is dreadfully steep, but you'll be rewarded with sensational views over the coast.
Ferme Auberge Le Rond De Basse Vallée
Another great place to commune with nature, further up the Route Forestière. There are four rooms with virginal-white walls and spick-and-span bathrooms in a Creole-style building in harmony with the environment.
Gîte Boyer Georget – Le Poinsettia
Beds are in five- to 11-bed dorms. Also has three doubles and a small grocery store.
Gîte De Bellevue
A good find in a bucolic property, behind the equestrian centre Écuries du Volcan. Has two doubles and two quads, all scrubbed attentively. The bungalow can sleep five. Bar breakfast (€5), no meals are provided but there are kitchen facilities.
Gîte De La Fournaise
The two dorms downstairs are OK, but the renovated double room upstairs really cuts the mustard, with its own terrace and views of Piton des Neiges.
Gîte De Montagne De Basse Vallée
This simple gîte de montagne is about 8km above the village of Basse Vallée, along the Route Forestière de Basse Vallée.
Gîte Des Trois Salazes
This well-run gîte is a secure spot to hang your rucksack, the rates are good and it's handily set on the main drag. It features four salubrious five- to six-bed rooms with well-scrubbed bathrooms. Tatiana is your friendly host.
Gîte Du Volcan
If you wish to stop overnight to soak up this grandiose scenery, the 65-bed Gîte du Volcan boasts a stunning location, a 15-minute walk from Pas de Bellecombe. Digs are in four- to 12-bed dorms.
Gîte Émile
Has basic accommodation in five- to 12-person dorms. From the gîte to the viewpoint, it's a 30- to 45-minute walk.
Gîte François Libelle
Digs are in four- to six-bed dorms that feel a bit cramped. It's also possible to camp.
Gîte L'arbre Du Voyageur
Two adjoining seven-bed dorms and a lovely camp site in a property that feels like the world's end. A bit pricey, but the welcome is affable, the setting serene and the food is among the best in Mafate.