Provencal Restaurants
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Café la Nuit
The Roman place du Forum, shaded by outstretched plane trees, turns into a giant dining table at lunch and dinner during summer. It's also where you'll find Café la Nuit, thought to be the café painted by Van Gogh in his Café Terrace at Night (1888). Painted bright yellow to re-create the effect used by Van Gogh to indicate bright night-time lights, it's invariably packed with tourists dining in front of its famous façade.
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Le Bistrot Arlésien
A few doors down from Café la Nuit, Le Bistrot Arlésien is the locals' pick of places on place du Forum.
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Le Zinc d'Hugo
Outside this rustic bistro of stone walls and chunky wooden tables, a blackboard chalks up daily specials such as a terrine of foie gras with confit of vegetables, as well as highlights from its 80-strong wine list.
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La Table du Terroir
The crimson chairs and tablecloths at this country-style restaurant are entirely fitting, as this is definitely one for the carnivores - rump steak, pork fillet and tripes à la Caen are just some of the meaty treats on offer.
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Au Brin de Thym
Market-fresh produce is made to look like a work of art at this pretty place fronted by a lavender and white awning and damask-clothed tables. The Provençal menu is a great way to sample creative dishes laced in local olive oil, and there's a strong wine list.
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Lou Marques
Gastronomic treats at the Hôtel Jules César's sumptuous restaurant, within a former 17th-century Carmelite convent, include a fine variety of foie gras, a St-Jacques risotto with red Camargue rice, and a Grand Marnier soufflé served with cool chocolate sorbet.
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Table de Jean
Just along the street from Les Petits Ventres, this is a cosy little restaurant that's all about hearty, down-to-earth country cooking - dishes such as braised beef and brandade de morue (cod brandade) are house specialities, and there's always a blackboard of daily specials.
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Le Sud du Haut
Marseille's bohemian patch of town is lined with restaurants offering a tantalising variety of French and ethnic cuisines. By far the stand-out Provençal cuisine of the area is found in this brightly-painted blue and yellow place with its eclectic interior and colourful, sky-topped terrace.
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Le Moutardier
In the medieval days of the Avignon popes, the souffleur blew the fire to get it going, the rôtisseur roasted the meat on it and the moutardier made the mustard - hence the name of this traditional restaurant lazing in the shade of the Palais des Papes with sweeping views from its terrace.
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Le Bistro à Vin
Fronted by a scrubbed claret-coloured wooden façade and filled with timber tables, this rustic beamed-ceiling wine bistro has some top drops, accompanied by Provençal fare like tapenade, an assiette garrigue (a mix of warm goat cheese, dried ham, fresh figs and melon), and a mouthwatering selection of artisanal cheeses.
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315 Restaurant & Wine Bar
Chef/owner Louis Moskow creates Provencal-inspired sensations like braised veal with truffle jus (around US$20) and duck breast with fried cherries (around US$24). The prix fixe menu (around US$27) served Sunday through Thursday (17:30-19:00) is a great deal. And while the excellent wine list alone is adequate reason to visit the wine bar, call ahead about special food and wine events.
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Aux Petits Singes
Little visitors will be delighted by this adorable 'children's restaurant' where they can sit at tiny tables, play with toys and games, and enjoy their own special menu of a drink, main dish and a 'surprise' (chocolate or similar). Grown-ups' choices range from charcuterie (cold meats) to tartes, salads and soup. Everything - including the cakes - is home-made.
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Le Dock de Suez
Le Panier's western fringe flows into the commercial port area (metro Joliette, 8e), where dining spots at the London-docks-like complex, Les Docks, include the voluminous Le Dock de Suez. Business high flyers rub shoulders as chef Richard Tucita greases the wheeling and dealing with sophisticated dishes such as supions à la Provençale (squid with garlic and tomatoes) and braised ox cheek.
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Bastide du Cours
In the beating heart of Aix, this café right on cours Mirabeau has a delightful interior garden where you can get a culinary taste of Provence with dishes such as slow-roasted lamb shank with wild thyme and locally grown tomatoes. It also has four richly adorned chambre d'hôte rooms with a visual taste of Provence's striped, flowered and checked fabrics. Rates jump about 30% in July.
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Le Café Parisien
Le Café Parisien's sculpted plaster walls have been a theatrical backdrop for Marseillais diners for over a century. The brasserie's once-faded glamour has recently been restored to its former heyday splendour, serving elegant fare such as squid drizzled in olive oil and a richer-than-rich risotto. Post-repas, play boules on the café's indoor pitch downstairs, or have a pastis at the adjacent underground bar.
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Amphityron
Amphityron combines the talents of co-owners Patrice Lesné and Bruno Ungaro. Patrice masterfully oversees the sleek dining rooms of studded red banquettes and outdoor 15th-century cloister terrace; passionate chef Bruno visits the markets each morning for seasonal specialities, which might include 15 different types of tomatoes. The attached Comptoir de l'Amphi is an affordable alternative; and there's a piano where guests knock out a tune after a cognac or two.
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Nissa Socca
This inexpensive joint in Nice's ambient old town is a good bet for authentic niçoise cuisine, from the eponymous socca to a slice of pissaladière (a thick crust covered with puréed onions and garlic, topped with anchovies and olives) or its Italian ancestor, the pizza.
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Restaurant Brunel
Brunel is a local favourite for authentic Provençal dishes such as aïoli , especially at lunch, when there are outstanding deals on main courses (which always include a fish of the day) and desserts. The handful of outdoor tables is hotly contested in warm weather.
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