Jamaican Restaurants
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Scotchie’s
This roadside offshoot of the superlative jerk center in Montego Bay lies adjacent to an Epping Gas station just west of Dunn’s River Falls, where its pork, chicken and sausage water the mouths of locals and visitors alike.
reviewed
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Pelican Bar
Built on a submerged sandbar 1km out to sea, this thatch-roofedeatery on stilts provides Jamaica’s – and perhaps the planet’s – most enjoyable spot for a drink. Getting there is half the fun: hire a local boat captain (you can book passage from Jake’s for US$30). The clientele is a mix of enchanted travelers and repeat-business fishermen who while away the hours playing dominoes, talking on their cell phones, checking the cricket scores or exchanging pleasantries with the self-satisfied owner. In between Red Stripes, or perhaps before your meal of lobster, shrimp or fish, feel free to slip into the salubrious waters for a dip.
reviewed
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3 Dives Jerk Centre
It’s no small tribute to 3 Dives that its jerk overshadows its reputation for lengthy waits (sometimes over an hour). Fortunately, the chefs are more than happy to let you peek into the kitchen, where there’s bound to be a pile of super-hot Scotch bonnet peppers threatening to spontaneously combust, and you can sip cheap Red Stripe on the cliffs at the end of a small garden. This is also the site of the annual Negril Jerk Festival.
reviewed
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Dickie’s Best Kept Secret
Almost too well kept a secret for its own good, Dickie’s is an unsigned hut on the A4, less than 2km west of Port Antonio that offers enormous five-course meals in two small rooms perched over the sea. Dickie and his wife Joy promise to cook anything you want (provided they can get the ingredients). Invariably, the meal begins with a palate-cleansing fruit plate followed by soup and a callaloo omelette. Just when you think you can’t eat another bite, the main course – typically garlic lobster or fresh fish – arrives. Dickie’s has only a few tables, so reservations are essential. The owners serve no alcohol, but you may bring your own.
reviewed
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Country Style Bar
This brand-new place looks like it’s been around for eons. Owner/curator, Ansel Barrett, has filled every available nook and cranny with his delightful collection of bric-a-brac ranging from portraits of Robert Kennedy to preserved insects. The building itself is a casual masterpiece, extensively embellished with tile fragments and an offbeat assemblage of found objects. The main lounge is stylishly comfortable with a collection of vintage easy chairs and tables. A small beach looks out on an island to which you can kayak. The menu includes hearty breakfasts and a typical roster of Jamaican fare. You’ll find it just east of Coyaba Beach Resort.
reviewed
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Lion’s Den
West of town between Dolphin Cove and Dunn’s River Falls, this place looks like a tourist trap but it is worth a stop for the excellent, well-priced Jamaican fare and unique, artistic decor. The dining room resembles a Rastafarian chapel with hand-carved columns and wicker ‘tree limbs’ reaching to the ceiling. Outside on the patio, under a shady canopy of trees, you can spy on the goings-on at Dolphin Cove (bring binoculars). The menu boasts local specialties such as roast fish (US$6).
reviewed
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Jack Sprat Café
An excellent barefoot beachside eatery affiliated with Jake’s, this appealing joint features vintage reggae posters and an old jukebox as well as a lively bar scene that spills onto the tree-shaded patio. Jack Sprat warms to any crowd or time of day, and offers a diverse menu of sandwiches, salads, crabcakes, smoked marlin and lobster as well as excellent jerk or garlic shrimp. A superb array of pizzas is available at night, and every meal should end with some of the superb ice cream.
reviewed
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Cocina Creativa
Just when you’d given up hope of ever seeing an inventive, unique, nonfranchised eating establishment again, up pops Cocina Creativa, a fresh, cozy, homegrown resting place tucked rather incongruously behind a gas station on one of the northwest’s ubiquitous big box strips. You can realign your zen here with a kind of organic-meets-European-meets-Jamaican menu. Try the yucca and fishcakes, the jerk chicken with mango chutney or the amazing bruschettas.
reviewed
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Native Restaurant & Bar
An excellent place to learn about Jamaican cuisine, this modest yet engaging spot features an extensive menu and open-air veranda. Try ‘goat in a boat’ (curried goat in a pineapple half) or ‘yard man fish’ (whole fish escoveitched or steamed). If you’re really hungry, consider the ‘Boonoonoonoos’ sampler (composed of ackee and saltfish, jerk chicken, curried goat, escoveitched fish, plantains and pineapple) – it’s like taking a crash course in Jamaican food.
reviewed
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Ma Lou’s
With African-themed decor and exciting nouvelle-Jamaican cuisine, this small place tucked away in the Coral Cliff Casino is one of the nicest restaurants in town. The adventurous menu features delicacies such as roasted Peking chicken, curry with coconut and fried plantain, and specialty jerks. A nice touch is the large window open to the kitchen by the front door, where you can chew the fat with the garrulous chef.
reviewed
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Norma’s on the Beach
The Negril branch of Norma Shirley’s celebrated Jamaican culinary empire, this Norma’s seems to have escaped the hype surrounding her Kingston flagship. The ‘new world Caribbean’ food at this stylish beach restaurant is just as adventurous. Expect to find the likes of lobster, Cornish game hen, jerk chicken and pasta as well as tricolored ‘rasta pasta.’ Lunches are more burger and tuna-melt oriented.
reviewed
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Evita’s
This charmer sits high above Ochi in a romantically decorated 1860s house. It is an airy setting with exquisite views. The Italian-Jamaican menu includes jerk spaghetti and the trademark ‘Lasagna Rastafari.’ Recommended are the smoked marlin carpaccio and wickedly good herb-crusted lamb chops. If you’re lucky the gregarious proprietor Eva will stop by your table and give your shoulder a squeeze.
reviewed
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Up on the Roof
Above the bustle of New Kingston’s main drag, this atmospheric rooftop terrace is popular with locals and a terrific starting point before a night on the town. The marlin salad and shrimp with garlic jerk mayo stand out in a menu of Jamaican standards. There’s a sporadic calendar of jazz events and poetry readings; on Saturday, the bar mixes cocktails until the last patron leaves.
reviewed
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Marguerite’s
Adjoining Margaritaville, this celebrated restaurant provides a lovely setting from which to watch the sunset while drinking cocktails, followed by dinner on the elegant clifftop patio. The pricey menu edges toward nouvelle Jamaican and fresh seafood, but also includes sirloin steak and inventive pasta dishes. The chef displays his culinary chops at a central flambé grill.
reviewed
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Survival Beach Restaurant
In addition to the usual local fare, natural juices and the best jelly coconut in town, this choice shack serves a tasty dish made with coconut milk, pumpkin, Irish potato, garlic, scallion, thyme, okra, string beans and three kinds of peas, served with sides of cabbage and callaloo. Just ask for the vital I-tal stew (US$5). Tip from Oliver the owner: call in advance.
reviewed
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Pelican
Don’t be mistaken by the roadside diner appearance of this good-value local favorite. Its menu of Jamaican dishes is outstanding, highlighted by red snapper in parchment paper, cooked in wine and béchamel sauce. Other dishes include stew peas with rice and stuffed conch with rice and peas, but the Pelican also serves sirloin steaks and seafood. Sunday buffet is US$12.
reviewed
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Sweet Spice Restaurant
This unassuming bright-blue clapboard house is a favorite among several authentic Jamaican restaurants in Sheffield Rd that are frequented by locals. Portions are heaped, prices are inexpensive and the food authentic. The menu includes curried goat and fish, conch steak and pepper steak. No alcohol is served but there are plenty of fruit juices.
reviewed
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Hot Pot
A casual, economical haunt with a small back patio that attracts workers from the nearby hotels, Hot Pot serves unfussy, indisputably delicious Jamaican home-style cooking with dishes such as ackee and saltfish, escoveitched fish and garlic chicken. Wash it down with a fresh tamarind juice, coconut water or a Red Stripe.
reviewed
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Mr Brown’s Lounge
Named after a Jamaican folklore tale that Bob Marley adapted into a song, this bar-restaurant cooks up such Jamaican staples as jerk chicken and stewed oxtail along with American riffs like ‘island-style’ macaroni and cheese. Wash it down with a spicy rum punch. DJs spin reggae and dancehall tunes on weekends. Ya, mon.
reviewed
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Heather’s Garden Restaurant
Grab a table near the immense mango tree stretching through a hole in the roof and savor moderately priced fare ranging from Jamaican crab backs and Cajun-style blackened fish to cottage pie, charbroiled lamb chops, kebabs and seafood. The bar scene gets increasingly raucous with singles as the evening progresses.
reviewed
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Pork Pit
Searing tongues for decades, this jumping jerk joint is MoBay’s best. Eat at open-air picnic tables shaded by a gargantuan silk-cotton tree that the chef reckons to be 300 years old. Finger-lickin’ jerk chicken, pork, fish and shrimp are ordered by the pound, with yams, ‘festival’ and sweet potatoes as sides.
reviewed
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Ivan’s Bar
Although the service can be a little bewildering, there’s no doubt about the food at Catcha Falling Star’s restaurant overlooking the sea. Papaya Ahoy is an excellent ‘boat’ of papaya filled with shrimp or snapper drizzled in a coconut sauce. Coconut pimento chicken and Caribbean crabcakes also hit the spot.
reviewed
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Blue Runnings
On the periphery of Island Village is this pleasant place with a shady, peaceful patio. Jamaican fare such as jerk pork or chicken, steamed fish and a wholesome vegetarian platter (US$6) is served by day; in the evening the darkened, candlelit tables make for a romantic place to imbibe the local poison.
reviewed
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Cephas
This little eatery, a slice of Jamaica right in Ybor City, is run by Cephas Gilbert, who showed up in the US in 1982 with $37 in his pocket. Since then he’s parlayed his small stake into a customer-friendly joint. Head here for huge plates of jerk chicken wings, curry goat or chicken and brown stew.
reviewed
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Scotchies
Widely regarded as the best jerk shack in Jamaica (hence the world), this roadside yard with thatched-covered tables doles out impeccable portions of chicken, pork and fish accompanied by sides of yams, festival or breadfruit. Cool your tongue off with a Red Stripe…and then go back for more.
reviewed