Indonesian Restaurants
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Balenta Café
A wonderful location for a meal, Balenta has low tables right on the sand with turquoise water a metre or two away. It scores for omelettes, Sasak and Indonesian food like kelak kuning (snapper in yellow spice) and staff fire up a seafood barbecue most nights too. Service can be a tad relaxed though.
reviewed
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Barcelona Bar & Restaurant
This quiet and restful restaurant has a shady garden area out the back that is the preferred seating option. Despite the name, it has an ambitious and good Balinese menu.
reviewed
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Biah Biah
A tidy little warung with some nice dining along walker-friendly Jl Goutama. A varied menu of Indo classics that are artfully served atop banana leaves. The 'romantic dinner' for two may be stretching it; think 'I like you' dinner.
reviewed
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Café Teduh
Amid the big shopping malls, this little oasis is hidden down a tiny lane. Hanging orchids, trees, flowers and ponds with fountains create a bucolic feel. There's a menu of meaty mains such as ayam bakar rica (barbecued chicken with ratatouille) but the real treats are just that – treats. Try the es cakalele, a refreshing sundae of lychee and coconut milk.
reviewed
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Café Wayan
At the Alam Gili hotel, this fine place offers authentic Balinese and Indonesian dishes (try the steamed prawns) plus some good Western options (sandwiches with very fresh bread). Great service and a beachside garden location make it worth the trip up north.
reviewed
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Genta Bali
Across the road from the parking area, you can find a fine yoghurt drink here, as well as pasta and Indonesian food. It has an impressive list of puddings, including ones with banana and jackfruit. Try out the black-rice wine.
reviewed
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Good Heart
A Balinese-owned restaurant, so if you're bored of those standard-issue Indo dishes the flavours have a slight twist here. Excellent for fresh seafood: barbecued or steamed fish, prawns or squid (choose from six different accompanying sauces including lemon grass, ginger or chilli). Also perfect for a sunset cocktail (40,000Rp) or fresh juice (10,000Rp).
reviewed
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Lala & Lili
Fields of rice stretch away like waves of green from this simple cafe set on a path on a plateau. The menu is a familiar mix of Indo and sandwiches. Many local expat artists hang out here while others living in the numerous nearby cheap rentals spring for delivery.
reviewed
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Laughing Buddha
More stylish than your average warung, this casual cafe serves good Indonesian food aimed at the discriminating Western palate. Get a table at a bench in front and enjoy the passing Monkey Forest parade.
reviewed
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Rumah Makan Kikinovi
Run by a formidable ibu, this is Indonesian food at its tastiest. It's very inexpensive − a big feed is around 15,000Rp.
reviewed
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Warung Aja
A real find amid the often fair-to-middlin' food scene of Monkey Forest Rd, this little bamboo hut is set well back from the clogged traffic. Get there early because the groovy young staff only cook so much and when stuff runs out, that's it.
reviewed
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Warung Enak
A breezy two-level restaurant with a winsome logo, Enak specialises in Indonesian food. The rijstafel (array of Indonesian dishes) is justifiably popular or you can go modest by choosing from the long menu of satays and variations on mie goreng.
reviewed
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Warung Indonesia
Tucked away at the rear of the village, this authentic Indo warung scores high marks for cheap local grub in no-nonsense surrounds. No alcohol served.
reviewed
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Warung Lembongan
Silver folding chairs at long tables, shaded by a garish green awning out front. These are details you will quickly forget after you have the house speciality: chicken lightly fried yet delicately crispy like the top of a perfect crème brûlée. The special costs 17,000Rp and includes ayam (chicken), rice, soup and a beverage. The KFC in Sanur wants over 200,000Rp for its deeply inferior mass-merchandised version.
reviewed
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Ya Ya Warung
Ramshackle warung-on-the-beach that serves up Indonesian faves, curries, pancakes and plenty of pasta.
reviewed
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Yellow Flower Cafe
New Age Indonesian right up in Penestanan along a little path through the rice fields. Nearby views look out over Ubud but you'll be happier concentrating on organic mains like a good nasi campur (rice with side dishes) and rice pancakes. Snackers will delight in the good coffees, cakes and smoothies.
reviewed
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Ali Baba
Beachside warung decorated with wacky sea- and coconut-shell sculpture. It serves up Indonesian and Western fare in a tranquil setting right by the waves.
reviewed
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Bumbu Bali
One of the finest restaurants on the island, Bumbu Bali serves the best Balinese food you'll have during your visit. Long-time resident and cookbook author Heinz von Holzen, his wife, Puji, and enthusiastic staff serve exquisitely flavoured dishes. Many diners opt for one of several set menus (from 255,000Rp). The rijsttafel (array of Indonesian dishes) shows the range of cooking in the kitchen, from satays served on their own little coconut-husk grill to the tender be celeng base manis (pork in sweet soy sauce) and the amazingly tasty and different jaja batun bedil (sticky dumpling rice in palm sugar), with a dozen more courses in between. Tables are set under the stars…
reviewed
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Dapur Alam
A real find (if you can find it). The name of this upscale night market means 'natural kitchen'. Spotless tables under two pavilions welcome diners to a shady spot below the road near the river. Various open kitchens serve dishes from across the archipelago. Even standards like the spicy sate ayam (chicken satay) are inspired. Kids enjoy a playground.
reviewed
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Gusung Indah
Scores for local food such as opor ayam (braised chicken in coconut milk), sandwiches or pasta.
reviewed
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Ibu Mangku
Where your driver takes lunch. Look for the cabs in front of this bamboo place with a serene garden out the back. The must-have is the superb minced-chicken satay, redolent with lemongrass and other spices.
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Kafe Batan Waru
The Tuban branch of one of Ubud's best eateries is a slicked-up version of a warung, albeit with excellent and creative Asian and local fare. There's also good coffee, baked goods and kid-friendly items such as pasta and chicken fingers.
reviewed
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Ketupat
Hidden behind the antique-filled Jonathan Gallery, Ketupat is a calm oasis that is an escape from the Kuta clamour. Open-air dining pavilions overlook an azure pool. Dishes originate from across Indonesia, including Javanese curries such as nasi hijau harum (fried rice with greens, shrimps and herbs).
reviewed
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Kuta Night Market
This enclave of stalls and plastic chairs bustles with locals and tourism workers chowing down on hot-off-the-wok treats, grilled goods and other fresh foods.
reviewed
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Made's Warung
Made's was the original tourist warung in Kuta, and through the years the Westernised Indonesian menu has been much copied. Classic dishes such as nasi campur (rice with side dishes) are served with colour and flair. Although not the hub it once was, Made's is among the nicest options in the area.
reviewed