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Atlantic Beach Hotel
Some will tell you that the Caribbean's gay scene begins and ends at this beach-side establishment. Others - while acknowledging its historical importance in the growth of gay nightlife - claim that it slid downhill since its 1980s peak. Whatever your viewpoint, the Atlantic's still crowded, well-known and very much part of the scene.
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Blend
Blend has been described as uberchic; it's certainly ubernew and - later on in the evening - uberbusy. Cocooned in an old colonial building on Fortaleza Street, this fashionable dining and nightlife spot belts out electronic music from its cavernous and moodily lit interior.
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Café Hijos de Borinquen
Gotta wedge your way in on weekend nights. DJs, acoustic guitars, sing-a-long sets and even a bit of patriotic fervor as the clock hand approaches midnight. And that's just the start. The so-named 'Sons of Borinquen' has been known to keep going until .
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Club Brava
A swinging club inside the El San Juan Hotel that frequently get breathless reviews from celeb spotters and all-night dance fanatics. The two-level interior is small, and the music a mix of dance, reggaeton and salsa and the atmosphere's electric and the people-watching possibilities in the lobby beforehand strangely voyeuristic. Dress up, bring your credit card and get ready to jive to what is touted as the best sound system in the Caribbean.
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Club Liquid
The former Asylum Club has confusingly changed its name to Liquid (there's another Liquid bar in the Water & Beach Club Hotel). This one's darker, sweatier and more nocturnal. Night owls, of both straight and gay varieties, end their Sunday morning dance-a-thons here. Expect an 18-to-23 crowd here, except on gay nights when it's noticeably older.
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Cocobongo
A Mexican-flavored restaurant/club with fine margaritas, this is a good place to catch live salsa and it rocks till late.
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Cups
Lesbian-friendly bars are hard to come by in San Juan, but this one in Santurce is a laid-back women's scene popular with couples and cruisers.
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El Batey
If Hunter S Thompson were still alive and living in Puerto Rico, this is where you'd probably find him. Cool, crusty and unashamedly bohemian, the walls of this cavernous drinking joint are covered in graffiti while the low-key lighting will have you groping in your pockets for spare change to light up the suitably retro jukebox.
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El Chico Lounge
If you want to dance but discos aren't your style, then try El Chico. Professional dancers move among the crowd getting everyone in motion. Live music adds to the fun. Dressy attire required.
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Fine Arts Cinema
The island's only true art-house cinema was once a sanctuary for adult-only movies. These days it shows a good selection of independent films from around the world.
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Gallery Café
This café in the old city features jazz on Wednesday night, and funk, hip-hop, Latin jazz and techno Thursday to Saturday. Happy-hour specials run till on Friday. You get a well-dressed local yuppie gang here.
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Kali's
Sophisticated sanjuaneros love this moody, Asian-themed restaurant and bar. Sheer curtains flutter against dark maroon walls while trendy patrons sip cocktails and order Indian-influenced appetizers at a big bar adorned with candles.
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Kouros
Open only on the weekends, Kouros is probably the most glamorous disco in town, and it caters to a well-heeled gay male and female crowd (although certainly anyone is welcome). If you want to put on something slinky and get hot and sweaty under a strobe light, check out Kouros.
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Krash
The former Eros club may have changed its name but it's still predominantly gay. Theme nights are the staple here and DJs shake the house nightly with the latest club sounds from LA, New York and beyond. Hot dancing is de rigueur and the toilets sport some strangely erotic Hellenic murals.
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Kudetá
In the snakes and ladders of San Juan nightlife, Kudetá (coup d'état - geddit?) is a precocious newcomer. It is also part of an emerging new trend: a Pan-Asian restaurant that metamorphoses after hours into a hip club with a hidden upstairs lounge where diners can disappear to dance off their Indonesian barbecued baby-back ribs and Cuba Libre-cured salmon roll salad. They've even invented their own furniture - the suede-covered Kudetá Collection.
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La Rumba
This is what you came to Puerto Rico for - a club so packed with people of all ethnicities and ages that it matters not if you are an expert twirler or a rank neophyte who can't even spell syncopation. It won't get busy until after , when the live bands start warming up, but soon enough the trickle of people through the door will turn into a torrent and you'll be caught up in a warm tropical crush of movement. Expect salsa, samba, reggaeton, rock and, of course, rumba music.
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Luis A Ferré Center for the Performing Arts
Built in 1981 in Santurce, this center has more than 1800 seats in the festival hall, about 700 in the drama hall and 200 in the experimental theater. The three concert halls fill when the Puerto Rican Symphony Orchestra holds one of its weekly winter performances. International stars also perform here, and it stages productions by the Ópera de Puerto Rico and Ballet de San Juan.
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Marriott Hotel Lobby
Salsa springs up in the unlikeliest of places, including in the lobby of this international hotel chain. But this is no standard tourist show. Indeed the authenticity and variety of the music here is something to behold - and people dance too (including the staff). Thursday through Saturday is salsa and meringue dancing, Wednesday is Nueva Trova with a Cuban influence, and Sunday through Tuesday is a live salsa sextet.
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Martini's Cabaret
A luminously lit discotheque and lounge that has booked headliners such as Whitney Houston and Jay Leno in its day - Martini's in Isla Verde's InterContinental is where you go for live music, dancing or the odd celeb surprise. There's more than a hint of Las Vegas in the surroundings - and the drink prices.
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Noise
And plenty of it - mainly of the hip-hop variety; salsa-searchers look elsewhere. Brave ladies get in free on Friday nights. There's a metal detector and airport style pat-down at the door. Enough said.
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Nuyorican Café
Now, this is more like it. If you came to Puerto Rico in search of authentic salsa music, the legend still lives on at the Nuyorican Café. San Juan's hottest nightspot is a congenial hub of live Latino sounds and hip-gyrating locals that easily emulates its famous New York namesake. Stuffed into an alley off Fortaleza, opposite a nameless drinking hole, you get everything from poetry readings to six-piece salsa bands that squish onto the stage here.
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Oleo
This is Nuevo Old San Juan at its best or worst - depending on your musical persuasion. Forget that image of straw-hatted, guitar strumming jíbaros . Olio is all loud dance music, minimalist furnishings, expensively-clad 20-somethings and an atmosphere that's more Vegas than Borinquen. Communication is via shouting or sleek Latino body language.
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Reading Cinemas
In the Hato Rey district, this is the city's largest multiplex.
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Teatro Metro
This classic, restored cinema is in Santurce, edging towards Miramar.
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Teatro Tapia
Something of a city emblem, the Teatro Tapia on the south side of Plaza Colón is an intimate neoclassical theater designed in the Italian style with three-tiered boxes and an elegantly decorated lobby. Dating from 1832 and named after the so-called 'Father of Puerto Rican literature', Alejandro Tapia y Rivera, the building has long acted as a nexus for the island's rich cultural life and has hosted big names from the world of opera, stage and ballet from around the world.






