Parque Nacional Da Peneda-gerês

Introducing Parque Nacional Da Peneda-gerês

Spread across four impressive granite massifs in Portugal’s northernmost reaches, this 703-sq-km park encompasses boulder-strewn peaks, precipitous valleys, gorse-clad moorlands and lush forests of oak and fragrant pine. It also shelters more than 100 granite villages that, in many ways, have changed little since Portugal’s founding in the 12th century. Established in 1971, Peneda-Gerês –Portugal’s first and most important national park – has helped preserve not just a unique set of ecosystems but also a highly endangered way of life.

The horseshoe-shaped park is blessed (or cursed) with more rain than anywhere else in Portugal, swelling its rivers and five sizable reservoirs. Within the southern park in particular, you’ll find exceptional hiking through forests and over high plateaus dotted with beehives and archaeological sites. The northwest is known for its idyllic rural accommodation in far-flung cottages and stone shelters.

Villages are dwindling as young residents leave for the cities, but so far they’re still able to offer a glimpse into a vanishing way of life. Meanwhile, the heights close to the Spanish border (especially in the Serra do Gerês, where several peaks rise over 1500m), are almost free of human activity, other than the shifting of livestock to high pastures in summer.

The park shares 80km of frontier with Spain and embraces a corresponding Spanish reserve. The main base is spa town Vila do Gerês. Portuguese day-trippers swarm up here on summer weekends, but if you go beyond the main camping areas you’ll quickly give crowds the slip.

Many of the park’s oldest villages remain in a time warp, with oxen trundled down cobbled streets by black-clad widows, and horses shod in smoky blacksmith shops. The practice of moving livestock, and even entire villages, to high pasture for up to five months still goes on in the Serra da Peneda and Serra do Gerês.

Despite joint governmental and private initiatives, this rustic scene is fading away as young people head for the cities. Village populations are shrinking, and an astonishing 75% of local people are over 65.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009