Panteão Nacional

Lonely Planet review

The huge dome of the Igreja de Santa Engrácia dominates the surrounding scenery. When work began in 1682, it was planned as one of Lisbon's grandest churches. After centuries of dithering and neglect, the sombre, marble edifice was inaugurated in 1966 (when the dome was finally completed) as the Panteão Nacional. It contains chilly marble cenotaphs to historic and literary figures.

Vasco da Gama and Henry the Navigator are in their usual pride of place, with new-kids-in-town tucked away in side chapels; look for General Humberto Delgado, the opposition leader assassinated by the secret police in 1965, and Amália, the famous fado singer. Walk up to the rooftop (there is a lift for the disabled) for a sunbake and great views of Alfama, the river and a vast stretch of the Vasco da Gama bridge.