Things to do in Setúbal
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Igreja de Jesus
Setúbal’s architectural stunner is the sand-coloured Igreja de Jesus, one of the earliest examples of Manueline architecture, adorned with gargoyles and twirling turrets. The facade, however, is eclipsed by its interior of twisted pillars, like writhing snakes, that spiral upwards to the ceiling. Nebulous-seeming and organic, they are made from pink-tinged Arrábida marble. Around the altar, 18th-century blue-and-white geometric azulejos contrast strikingly with the curling arches of the roof.
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Castelo São Filipe
The castle was built by Filipe I in 1590 to fend off an English attack on the invincible Armada. Converted into a pousada in the 1960s, its hulking ramparts afford precipitous views and its chapel is festooned in blue-and-white 18th-century azulejos depicting the life of São Filipe – you can view them through a glass wall if the door is locked. Arrive early morning and you’ll be able to watch fishermen unload their catch in the harbour below.
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José Maria da Fonseca
Wine-lovers shouldn’t miss the cellar tours of José Maria da Fonseca, the oldest Portuguese producer of table wine and Moscatel de Setúbal, in nearby Vila Nogueira de Azeitão. The winery is now run by the sixth generation of the family. Ring ahead to arrange a visit to the house and museum. From Setúbal, buses leave frequently to Vila Nogueira de Azeitão (20 minutes).
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Casa Santiago
Wafts of fish sizzling on the grill will reel you into this local favourite, where the hungry lunchtime crowds feast on huge portions of choco frito, served with a squirt of lemon and mounds of fries, rice and salad. It’s the best along the strip with a covered terrace and plenty of buzz.
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Galeria da Pintura Quinhentista
Art buffs should take a peek inside this gallery, dedicated to 16th-century painting. Star pieces include a set of 14 intricate panels that were once on display in the adjacent Igreja de Jesus. Also on display is the stained glass of the church’s main window.
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Museu do Trabalho Michel Giacometti
How does the sardine get in the tin and 1001 other fishy mysteries are solved at this quirky yet often empty museum, set in a cavernous former sardine-canning factory. In pride of place is an entire 1920s grocery, transported from Lisbon wholesale.
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Solar do Lago
This high-ceilinged restaurant exudes rustic charm with its chunky wooden tables and terracotta tiles. Tasty seafood dishes include garlicky caldeirada and grilled squid. A handful of outdoor tables overlook a quiet plaza.
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Cervejaria o Alemão
Günther runs this totally cuckoo German enclave. His bar resembles a Black Forest clock shop, with walls smothered in antique timepieces and pocket watches. Stop by for Franziskaner beer, schnitzel and cheesy schlager music.
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Cup of Joe
A young crowd gathers at this funky cafe to chill on the decked terrace, or bag a spot on the sofa to watch MTV. As well as potent cappuccinos, you’ll find toasties, crepes, bagels and other snacks.
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Museu de Arqueologia e Etnografia
This small, rambling museum showcases several intriguing pieces such as Roman mosaics and 19th-century devotional paintings on wood, showing invalids having holy visions.
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Xica Bia
Fado shawls, wrought-iron chandeliers and copper pots jazz up this brick-vaulted restaurant. It serves market-fresh seafood alongside other flavoursome fare like herby salsichas.
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Botequim de Bocage
Pull up a chair at this cafe terrace on Setúbal’s sunny main square. Light bites include quiche, pizza and sweets such as almond tart. It makes a good coffee pit stop.
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Pingo Doce
For self-caterers there’s the supermarket Pingo Doce and the large mercado municipal market next door selling excellent fish and fresh produce.
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Duarte dos Frangos
This cosy spot just south of the old town of Setúbal whips up succulent roast chicken. The yellow-and-blue decor is cheery, but service can border on matronly.
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Troiacruze
Offers dolphin-spotting (five-hour trip per person €25 to €35) and other cruises, such as a sailing galleon along the Sado estuary (€65 incl meals).
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Planeta Terra
Jeep safaris in Arrábida include half-day options such as a nature and wine tour (€35) or the birdwatching- and culture-focused Storks Route (€35).
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Nautur
Offers cruises with lunch, starting on the estuary, then visiting Arrábida beach, returning to the river for dolphin-spotting (€44).
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Sistemas de Ar Livre
The ecotourism company Sistemas de Ar Livre arranges activities including three-hour guided walks in or around Setúbal.
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Verde e Branco
Beside the Praça de Touros and famous for miles around, this traditional hot spot serves only grilled fish: simple and superb.
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Vertigem Azul
Offers sustainable three-hour dolphin-watching tours in the Sado estuary (€30). It’s located 500m west of the centre.
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