Sights in Setúbal
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A
Igreja de Jesus
Setúbal’s architectural stunner is the sand-coloured Igreja de Jesus, one of the earliest examples of Manueline architecture, adorned with gargoyles and twirling turrets. The facade, however, is eclipsed by its interior of twisted pillars, like writhing snakes, that spiral upwards to the ceiling. Nebulous-seeming and organic, they are made from pink-tinged Arrábida marble. Around the altar, 18th-century blue-and-white geometric azulejos contrast strikingly with the curling arches of the roof.
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Castelo São Filipe
The castle was built by Filipe I in 1590 to fend off an English attack on the invincible Armada. Converted into a pousada in the 1960s, its hulking ramparts afford precipitous views and its chapel is festooned in blue-and-white 18th-century azulejos depicting the life of São Filipe – you can view them through a glass wall if the door is locked. Arrive early morning and you’ll be able to watch fishermen unload their catch in the harbour below.
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José Maria da Fonseca
Wine-lovers shouldn’t miss the cellar tours of José Maria da Fonseca, the oldest Portuguese producer of table wine and Moscatel de Setúbal, in nearby Vila Nogueira de Azeitão. The winery is now run by the sixth generation of the family. Ring ahead to arrange a visit to the house and museum. From Setúbal, buses leave frequently to Vila Nogueira de Azeitão (20 minutes).
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B
Galeria da Pintura Quinhentista
Art buffs should take a peek inside this gallery, dedicated to 16th-century painting. Star pieces include a set of 14 intricate panels that were once on display in the adjacent Igreja de Jesus. Also on display is the stained glass of the church’s main window.
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C
Museu do Trabalho Michel Giacometti
How does the sardine get in the tin and 1001 other fishy mysteries are solved at this quirky yet often empty museum, set in a cavernous former sardine-canning factory. In pride of place is an entire 1920s grocery, transported from Lisbon wholesale.
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D
Museu de Arqueologia e Etnografia
This small, rambling museum showcases several intriguing pieces such as Roman mosaics and 19th-century devotional paintings on wood, showing invalids having holy visions.
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