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Mezzogiórno
The scent of piping-hot pizzas lures many would-be passers-by to this well-located Chiado pizzeria. Many varieties of tasty thin-crust pizzas are on offer, baked in a wood-burning oven. Our only gripe: plant some trees in that blindingly barren courtyard!
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O Fumeiro
Faithful to the cooking of the Beira Alta region of Portugal, this restaurant is about the use of smoked meats (the name means 'smokehouse') as can be judged by the sausage-lined interior. Rustic and hearty, the food is heavy going and best when combined with copious amounts of tinto (red wine).
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Panificação do Chiado
This elegant, refreshingly smoke-free pastry shop serves delicious chocolate croissants, fresh-baked breads, homemade jams and plenty of other temptations.
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Pap'Açorda
It's ironic that Lisbon's hipsters clamour to score a table at an eatery that is named after the humble stomach-filling dish açorda (bread-soup). While you should book ahead, perhaps the best part of the experience is checking out the scene from the bar while you wait. Note, it's best to stick to the less adventurous dishes here.
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Pastéis de Belém
Sublime, divine traditional pastéis de Belém custard tarts, with the eggiest, lightest, crispiest tarts, served warm with a sprinkling of cinnamon and sugar. The recipe is secret, but these tarts taste like they've been made by angels. Founded in 1837, the traditional tiled tearoom is pretty.
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Pastelaria Baga Baga
A charming option off the well-trodden tourist path, this tiny Graça café serves tasty bites at diminutive prices.
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Pastelaria São Roque
A mirrored, templelike café, with gold-topped columns and alcove tables for window-watching. It justifiably declares itself catedral do pâo (cathedral of bread) in tiles behind the counter. The homemade soup is delicious.
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Pastelaria Sequeira
Way out in Saldanha, this delightful pastry shop has enormous glass windows, through which one can glimpse flaky pastries, creamy tarts and the neighbourhood regulars that love them.
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Picanha Janelas Verdes
This cosy spot has tiles on the wall and chequered tablecloths. The main event here is picanha (steak seasoned with garlic and olive oil) , an enormously popular Brazilian dish.
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Pois Café
This large, airy café has big tables, comfy armchairs and plenty of books and newspapers on hand for whiling away a lazy afternoon. The fresh salads, hearty sandwiches and desserts are delicious (and nice accompaniments to tangy juices).
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Porte de Alfama
A tiny place with outdoor tables serving simple dishes such as barbecued fish. Free fado on Saturday.
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Real Fábrica
A trendy converted 19th-century silk factory, Real Fábrica throngs with people tucking into fine meat and fish. There's a long bottle-lined bar, and big plate-glass windows onto the street.
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Restaurant O Sol
A small veggie café with healthy food and outside tables on the stepped, cobbled lane.
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Restaurante Alto Minho
Next to the Elevador da Bica, this traditional tiled place does cheap, filling Portuguese staples with plenty of bacalhau (dried salt cod) options. It's a popular local spot.
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Restaurante Arço do Castelo
A small, relaxed Indian restaurant lined with bottles, this place has good Goan dishes. Coconut tiger-prawn curry and piri piri chicken are recommended.
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Restaurante Cais d'Alfama
Attracts locals with its cheerful atmosphere and extensive tasty choices, including fresh barbecued sardines. There are a few outside tables on the square.
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Restaurante Estrela de Santa Marta
This is a smart, bright, low-key, classy restaurant serving typical Portuguese dishes such as fresh grilled fish and seafood rice. It gets busy with a Portuguese crowd at lunchtime.
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Restaurante Floresta
The best value along this strip, popular Floresta is cheerful and reliable, with outside tables.
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Restaurante Montenegro
This is a lovely, friendly place to sit outside and linger over lunch. Has good shellfish-rice.
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Restaurante Os Tibetanos
Part of a school of Tibetan Buddhism in an old house topped with prayer flags, this ever-popular vegetarian eatery will fill you up with daily specials such as quiche or rice with vegetables. Desserts are delicious - try rose-petal ice cream with yogurt.
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Restaurante Solmar
This enormous columned restaurant has underwater sea murals and fusty waiters labouring beneath large seafood platters.
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Restaurante Viagems de Sabores
This superb, amazing-value international restaurant is small, with warm décor. It offers a journey for your tastebuds from Thai to Indian. Grilled tuna and eggplant lasagne are good picks. Book ahead.
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Restô
With a perch-like position overlooking Alfama, this is a wonderful Lisbon setting that's good at lunch and great at dinner. While the menu was oddly assembled by colour when we visited, the food was light and perfectly matched our sensation of floating above the city. There's a lively tapas bar here as well.
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Rosa dos Mares
This smart, bright 1st-floor restaurant is intimate, with craggy white walls and excellent seafood.
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Royal Café
This stylish café has moulded plastic furniture, tasty create-your-own sandwiches and a small backyard patio, with hipster kids sprinkled about. Laptop not included.
