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Casanova
Close to Bica do Sapato and under its wing, this is the place for authentic Italian pizza served in an airy modern space, as swinging as its light bulbs. There is some riverside seating. No reservations, just turn up and wait.
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Cervejaria da Trindade
A typical 19th-century cervejaria (beer hall), this one is a must with its colourful azulejos (tiles) and feverish atmosphere. Drop in for anything from a quick beer to a steak and fries dinner, but get there early - it's usually packed every night.
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Cha da Lapa
A smart, English-feeling tearoom, refined and well mannered, with flock wallpaper, tea and scones.
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Charcutaria Francesa
For a date-pleasing picnic, stop in this attractive food market for cheeses, wines, smoked meats, chocolates and other tasty bites. There's also a good French restaurant at the back, serving a noteworthy Saturday brunch.
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Chez Degroote
Away from the tourist crowds, this good-value restaurant has colourful walls, wrought-iron chandeliers and nicely prepared dishes. Straightforward specialties feature roasted meats or fish (sea bass, salmon).
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Clube de Fado
Overpriced, mediocre food and touristy feel; some fine fado artists in an arched, colonnaded hall. Popular with groups.
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Com Alma Caffé
Indeed, this newcomer to the dining scene has a lot of alma (soul). Modern moulded furniture contrasts with the exposed stone walls. On offer is good Mediterranean fare, and on weekends DJs or world music groups add to the scene.
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Deli Delux
Next door to Casanova, this enticing grocery shop has a casual restaurant in back where you can enjoy good salads, gourmet sandwiches and tasty desserts. Riverside seating.
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El Gordo II
Lit with a rosy glow from cloth lanterns, and decorated with mirrors and carved wooden screens, this has excellent, though not cheap, Spanish tapas such as octopus in smoked paprika, or pimento peppers. There are outdoor tables on the cobbled steps.
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Ena Pai
The bustling Rua dos Correeiros has lots of good-value places, catering to hordes of office workers at lunchtime and a legion of tourists at night. Ena Pai is a typical, no-frills venue with a rapid turnover of customers for its simple, unadorned, good-value fare (which even includes vegetables).
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Espalha Brasas
There's a string of waterfront restaurants and bars around the Docas area, under the thundering Ponte 24 de Abril, which gives the area some On the Waterfront cachet. It's worth wandering along the strip to see what takes your fancy, but one of the nicest, with delicious food and especially good salads is Espalha Brasas.
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Esplanada
This pleasant indoor-outdoor café is a good spot for a coffee break among trees and twittering birds.
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Everest Montanha
Tucked away just north of Praça da Figueira, this small, simple restaurant serves decent Nepalese and Indian dishes, with many vegetarian options.
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Fidalgo
Award-winning, sitting-room, with bottle-lined walls, Fidalgo is a lively, sophisticated, gay-friendly, buzzing choice. It offers interesting, well-executed fish and meat dishes and delicious desserts.
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Fragoleto
Serving the tastiest gelato this side of Genoa, pint-sized Fragoleto should not be missed. The ice cream here is divine, featuring a changing selection of seasonal fruits and even vegan options. Our current favourites: pistachio, green tea and wild berries.
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Jardim do Sentidos
This attractive vegetarian restaurant serves a changing menu of nicely prepared dishes such as lasagne, chilli and vegetable kofta. Lunchtime crowds come for the good-value buffet and the pleasant garden dining.
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La Brasserie de l'Entrecôte
This is Lisbon's best version of the classic French brasserie, serving up decent slabs of free-range beef in a convincingly authentic setting. This being Portugal, of course, the sizes are heart-cloggingly huge, but those who can make it to dessert are richly rewarded.
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La Caffé
Upstairs from the Lanidor boutique is this modish restaurant, cafe and bar that makes a great spot to drop in to even if you're not looking for a meal. However it's worth timing your visit for a light lunch or more substantial dinner as the food is good, fresh Italian-based fare. The attractive bar-lounge has access to fashion mags and free internet.
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Lautasco
Lautasco has a wonderfully romantic location, tucked in a leafy, decorated courtyard. Grilled salmon is among the favourites.
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Luca
This modern Italian restaurant packs in local businesspeople for lunch, and those in the know for dinner. There is lovely organic (Portuguese) olive oil on every table, pastas are made fresh, the seafood risotto is a (very generous) highlight. Desserts are irresistible and they serve Lavazza coffee for a great post-meal pick-me-up.
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Lusitália
One of several outdoor cafés facing the leafy praça, Lusitália serves toasted sandwiches, salads and a daily pasta, as well as decadent desserts.
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Malmequer Bemmequer
Well presented Portuguese food served in beautiful floral surrounds. The menu offers plenty of meat and fish dishes, but has enough variety to include English pudding and trifle as dessert. A popular place, with plenty of regulars.
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Matas Snack Bar
Fronting a tree-shaded courtyard in a quiet stretch of Graça, this colourful café serves simple lunch plates, though most come here for coffee, pastries and the pleasant open-air setting.
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Mega Vega
This small cheerful vegetarian restaurant serves fresh salads, tasty homemade torts and juices, and spreads a fine lunch buffet.
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Mestre André
A charming neighbourhood restaurant with small tables under a star-spangled ceiling, André has tasty bacalhau con nata (cod with cream) and cheesecake made with Portuguese cheese.
