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Pastelaria Baga Baga
A charming option off the well-trodden tourist path, this tiny Graça café serves tasty bites at diminutive prices.
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Porte de Alfama
A tiny place with outdoor tables serving simple dishes such as barbecued fish. Free fado on Saturday.
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Real Fábrica
A trendy converted 19th-century silk factory, Real Fábrica throngs with people tucking into fine meat and fish. There's a long bottle-lined bar, and big plate-glass windows onto the street.
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Restaurante Alto Minho
Next to the Elevador da Bica, this traditional tiled place does cheap, filling Portuguese staples with plenty of bacalhau (dried salt cod) options. It's a popular local spot.
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Restaurante Cais d'Alfama
Attracts locals with its cheerful atmosphere and extensive tasty choices, including fresh barbecued sardines. There are a few outside tables on the square.
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Restaurante Estrela de Santa Marta
This is a smart, bright, low-key, classy restaurant serving typical Portuguese dishes such as fresh grilled fish and seafood rice. It gets busy with a Portuguese crowd at lunchtime.
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Restaurante Floresta
The best value along this strip, popular Floresta is cheerful and reliable, with outside tables.
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Restaurante Montenegro
This is a lovely, friendly place to sit outside and linger over lunch. Has good shellfish-rice.
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Restaurante Solmar
This enormous columned restaurant has underwater sea murals and fusty waiters labouring beneath large seafood platters.
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Snob
This is where journalists come to huddle in brown-leather booths against walls comfortingly lined with whiskey bottles. It has a gentlemanly, wide-ranging menu with renowned steaks. Food served until late.
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Stravaganza
This is a great late-night choice for Bairro Alto dining, with its two rooms perpetually packed with punters either using the excellent pizzas to soak up the alcohol of a Bairro bar-crawl or preparing for the hours ahead. There's a good selection of salad starters and the seafood pastas are excellent.
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Tertúlia do Loreto
In a former bakery with stone walls and a wood-beamed ceiling, this friendly spot dishes up creative Portuguese cuisine. Try the Brazilian-influenced cod with coconut milk and palm oil.
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Treasure Island
Set with antiques and colourful artwork, this eclectic restaurant serves sandwiches (including a vegetarian option) and tapas as well as heartier fare.
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UMA
With a delicious, award-winning arroz de marisco (rice and seafood stew), and other great dishes, this backstreet place earns good reviews.
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Velho Macedo
An excellent, untouristy backstreet restaurant, with simple food cooked to perfection. Try the delicious squid.






