Finally waking up to smell those tourist euros, Lisbon has seriously raised the slumber stakes with an excellent array of design-conscious boutique hotels and upmarket backpacker digs. Be sure to book ahead during the high season (mid-July to mid-September). If you arrive without a reservation, head to a tourist oﬃce, where staﬀ can call around for you. A word to those with weak knees and/or heavy bags: many guest houses lack lifts, meaning you’ll have to haul your luggage up three ﬂights or more. If this disconcerts, be sure to book a place with an elevator.