Accommodation is always tight on Wednesday and Thursday because of the market. Try the remarkable Quinta do Convento da Franqueira in a 16th-century convent turned vineyard and inn, 6km north of town. Or in the town centre, stay in one of the stylish rooms at Hotel do Terço, a sleek modern option sitting atop its namesake shopping centre. There are plenty of equally inviting cafes and bakeries on the Old Town walking-only streets and plazas. The best food is to be had at Galliano, which features regional delicacies like barrosã grelhado (grilled steak), plus great-value lunch specials (€7).