Palace of Culture & Science

Lonely Planet review

The open expanses and tall buildings bounded by ul Marszałkowska, Al Jerozolimskie, ul Jana Pawła II and Al Solidarności collectively constitute Warsaw's financial zone. Its dominating feature (and that of the city) is the Palace of Culture & Science , which rises high above the newly built skyscrapers that have begun to mark this area in the past 10 years.

Love it or hate it, every visitor to Warsaw should visit the PKiN. This 'gift of friendship' from the Soviet Union was built between 1952 and 1955 and at 231m high still remains the tallest building in Poland. It's never sat well with the locals, who have branded it with one uncomplimentary moniker after another; the Elephant in Lacy Underwear (a reference to both to the building's size and to the fussy sculptures that frill the parapets), is a particular favourite.

The massive structure is home to a huge congress hall, three theatres, a multiplex cinema and two museums, as well as hectares of office space. The basement levels are patrolled by a 50-strong pride of feral cats, which keep the building clear of rats and in return receive pampering from an official vet. However the best feature of the building is the view it provides (Poles often joke that this is the best view of the city because it's the only one that doesn't include the 'palace' itself). Take the high-speed lift (enter via the main entrance, facing ul Marszałkowska to the 30th floor (115m) viewing terrace and take it all in - on a clear day the Mazovian plains are laid out before you. One-hour guided tours of the palace allow you to visit the 2800-seat Congress Hall, former gathering place of the Communist Party faithful, impressive marble-lined chambers and meeting rooms, and former Soviet president Brezhnev's favourite chill-out room. Tours must be booked in advance, and there's a five-person minimum.