Things to do in Toruń
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Cathedral of Ss John the Baptist & John the Evangelist
Of the historical buildings outside the museum’s administration, the largest and most impressive is the giant Gothic Cathedral of SS John the Baptist & John the Evangelist. Work started around 1260 and was only completed at the end of the 15th century, by which time the church dominated the town’s skyline, as it still does today. Its massive tower houses Poland’s second-largest historic bell (after the one in the Wawel Royal Cathedral of Kraków), the Tuba Dei (God’s Trumpet). Cast in 1530, it weighs 7238kg and is rung for significant religious and national events. On the southern side of the tower, facing the Vistula, is a large 15th-century clock; its original face and…
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Ruins of the Castle
History buffs should take the opportunity to check out the remnants of the town's original medieval fortifications. To the east, in a triangle squeezed between the Old and New Towns, are the Ruins of the Castle, built by the Teutonic Knights. It was destroyed by the town's inhabitants in 1454 as a protest against the order's economic restrictions (they must have been really ticked off - those Teutonic castles were solidly built).
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Kuranty
The menu is firmly based on the three Ps: pizza, pasta and pierogi (including a rather tasty baked version which looks suspiciously like the Italian calzone). Random photos and extraordinary Art Nouveau lights add to the atmosphere. Be warned: sports-playing TVs hang off the walls.
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Fountain
West of the town hall, opposite the post office, is an intriguing small Fountain built in 1914. Bronze-cast frogs sit on its rim, admiring a statue of a violin-playing boy known as Janko Muzykant, Toruń's very own answer to the Pied Piper story. Legend has it that a witch once came to the town, but wasn't welcomed by the locals. In revenge, she invoked a curse, and the town was invaded by frogs.
The mayor offered a sackful of gold and his daughter to anyone who would rescue the town. A humble peasant boy then appeared and began to play his rustic fiddle. The frogs, enchanted by the melodies, followed him to the woods and the town was saved.
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House of Nicolaus Copernicus
Unfortunately it’s an institution suffering from an identity crisis, unsure of whether its exhibits should focus on old furniture, astronomy or Copernicus’ life story. As there’s only sporadic English captioning, amid scholarly doubt over whether the great man was really born in this house, the museum is less interesting than it should be. More engaging, if overpriced, is its short audiovisual presentation regarding Copernicus’ times in Toruń, with a model of the town during that period. There are soundtracks in several languages, English included.
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Tantra
Forget those Gothic bricks – this bar takes the colour red to new heights in its astonishingly decorated interior. It’s done out in an Indian and Tibetan theme and layered with cloth and other artefacts from the subcontinent, including some tastefully rendered images of erotic temple statuary. Sit on the cushion-strewn divans, order a drink from the long list and meditate on the infinite.
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House of the Esken Family
The Gothic House of the Esken Family, set behind the cathedral, was converted into a granary in the 19th century. It’s worth persevering past the dry city history displays on the 1st floor, to encounter the 2nd floor collection of medieval weaponry and archaeological exhibits from the Iron and Bronze Ages, including a human skeleton buried in the distant pre-Poland past.
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World of Torun's Gingerbread
The third element of the House of Nicolaus Copernicus museum is the extravagantly titled World of Torun's Gingerbread, which offers insights into the arcane art of pierniki creation. Visitors are guided by a costumed medieval townswoman and given the chance to bake their own. A combined ticket to any two of the three attractions costs 18/11zł.
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St Mary’s Church
The third great Gothic structure in the old town is St Mary’s Church, erected by the Franciscans at the end of the 13th century. Austere and plain from the outside, it has a lofty interior with tall, intricate stained-glass windows and a prominent golden altarpiece, framed by a wooden archway depicting a complete crucifixion scene.
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House Under the Star
The House Under the Star, the most richly decorated house on the main square, showcases a small but elegant collection from Asia, including Japanese swords, Indian statues and Chinese pottery from the Tang dynasty. The building’s ornate Baroque fittings include striking polychrome ceilings and a statue of Minerva.
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Explorers’ Museum
The Explorers’ Museum is an institution to be placed on every die-hard traveller’s itinerary. It contains artefacts from the collection of inveterate wanderer Antonio Halik, comprising hats, travel documents and souvenirs of his journeys – including a vast array of hotel keys!
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Gospoda Pod Modrym Fartuchem
This atmospheric 15th-century eatery on the New Town Sq modestly claims to be ‘probably the oldest restaurant in the world’, and has served Polish kings and Napoleon. Polish standards are joined by more adventurous choices involving tortillas and Indian spices, on the vegetarian-friendly menu.
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New Town Square
North of the castle lies the New Town, centred on the New Town Square. The building in the middle is a former Protestant church, erected in the 19th century after the town hall was pulled down. It's a quieter, more tourist-free part of town, and the square hosts irregular art and craft markets.
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Wanda
Beyond succumbing to Gothic mania in the Old Town, you can enjoy the great outdoors by getting out on the water. Below the Monastery Gate you'll find the Wanda, a pleasure boat which will take you for a 40-minute cruise along the Vistula, once 15 passengers can be rounded up.
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Na Plantacji
Was it ever this civilised down on the plantation? Genteel ladies sip tea while waiters glide past bearing orders from the voluminous menu of hot beverages. This might be the place to order that great Polish refresher – herbata z rumem (tea with rum).
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Statue
On the opposite side of the Rynek, you'll find another curious critter-related Statue at knee-level, depicting a dog and umbrella. The pooch's name is Filus, and he starred in a famous long-running Polish comic strip as the pet of brolly-wielding Professor Filutek.
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Statue of Copernicus
The square at the Old Town Hall is also furnished with a number of interesting items of statuary. A few steps from the town hall entrance is a Statue of Copernicus, one of the oldest monuments dedicated to the stargazer and a regular feature in holiday snaps.
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Prowansja
This charming eatery does a convincing impersonation of a Provence restaurant and wine bar. Quiche, crepes and salads add to the Frenchness of it all, but it’s the wine list that’s the highlight. There’s an ISIC card discount available.
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Sułtan
Light, bright venue with an Arabian motif, it cooks up Middle Eastern cuisine in a space decorated with colourful lanterns. The menu contains many variants of kebabs, along with soups, salads, pizzas and a scattering of decent vegetarian options.
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Bar Mleczny Pod Arkadami
Toruń’s most central milk bar is just off the Old Town Sq, offering sturdy bites at silly prices. The outdoor window serves up waffles, ice cream and northern Poland’s best zapiekanki (Polish pizza).
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Bridge Gate
Following the old city walls east around from the castle, you'll come to the first of three surviving city gates, the Bridge Gate . A 700m-long bridge was built here between 1497 and 1500 and survived for over three centuries.
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Old Town Market Square
The usual starting point on Toruń's Gothic trail is the Old Town Market Square, dominated by its massive redbrick town hall and lined with fine restored houses, many graced by intricate decorative façades.
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Art Café
The insider’s address for everything new and cool in electronic music, from house to hardcore, with occasional hip-hop nights thrown in. Posters outside the door outline upcoming acts.
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Nasze Kino
A cool little arthouse cinema embedded within part of the old city walls, its single screen shows a range of non-Hollywood films. Double features and movie marathon screenings are cheaper.
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Dwór Artusa
The Artus Court, one of the most impressive mansions on the main square, is now a major cultural centre and has an auditorium hosting musical events, including concerts and recitals.
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