Things to do in Szczecin
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Castle of the Pomeranian Dukes
The mother of all Szczecin monuments is the Castle of the Pomeranian Dukes . This vast, blocky building looms over the Old Town, but the square central courtyard and simple Renaissance-style decoration atop the walls has a certain understated grace (spot the repeated circular pattern that resembles the Yin and Yang symbol).
The castle was originally built in the mid-14th century and grew into its current form by 1577, but was destroyed by Allied carpet bombing in 1944 before being extensively restored.
Admire the colourful historic clockface from the courtyard, with its jester figure chiming in each new hour, then climb to the top of the 58.6m bell tower for a view of the…
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Town Hall
A short walk south of the castle will bring you to the 15th-century Gothic Town Hall, one of the finest buildings in the city. This is the only relic of the Old Town, having miraculously survived the near-total destruction of the district in WWII.
Szczecin never enjoyed the meticulous postwar reconstruction of other Polish cities, but the Old Town is finally being pieced back together: an attractive line of stylised burghers' houses has been constructed right behind the town hall, in striking contrast to the unbecoming communist-era blocks opposite. As the renewal inches along, the area has started to fill with fashionable cafés and upscale bars. The day the market squar…
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Castle Museum
The castle accommodates the Castle Museum. Its star exhibits are six spectacular sarcophagi of the Pomeranian dukes. These large tin boxes are decorated with a fine engraved ornamentation, and were made between 1606 and 1637 by artists from Königsberg. Following the death of the last Pomeranian duke, Bogusław XIV, the crypt was walled up until the sarcophagi were discovered during restoration work in 1946, after the castle’s wartime destruction. The remains of the dukes were deposited in the cathedral, while the least-damaged sarcophagi were restored for display.
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Szczecin Underground
A recently opened attraction near the train station is Szczecin Underground. This sprawling set of concrete tunnels beneath the city streets was designated as a bomb shelter in the 1940s and as a fallout shelter thereafter. Tours alternate between a WWII or Cold War theme approximately every hour, and attract a 3zł surcharge after 5pm on a weekday, after 2pm Saturday and all day Sunday. English-language tours are only scheduled for 3pm and 4pm on Saturday, but can be booked for groups of 10 or more.
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Red Tourist Route
Rome wasn't built in a day, and Szceczin's historic heart won't be rebuilt overnight. Gradually, however, the local authorities are building up the city's tourist infrastructure. A prime example is the Red Tourist Route, a 7km walking circuit around town covering 42 important historic sights and buildings; pick up the explanatory map at one of the tourist offices and look for the red arrows sprayed graffiti-style on the pavement.
It's a great overview of Szczecin's attractions, if you have limited time in the city.
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Historical Museum of Szczecin
Within the town hall is the Historical Museum of Szczecin, which is well laid out within the airy light-filled interior. The star exhibit is a medieval treasure trove unearthed in 2001 during building works elsewhere in the city, a multimillion dollar collection of silver coins, buttons, rings and other jewellery – and the small iron pot the loot was stashed in. At the time of research, there were plans to add English captions.
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Castle Bell Tower
The mother of all Szczecin monuments is the Castle of the Pomeranian Dukes. This vast, blocky building looms over the Old Town, but the square central courtyard and simple Renaissance-style decoration atop the walls has a certain understated grace. Admire the colourful historic clockface from the courtyard, with its jester figure chiming in each new hour, then climb to the top of the 58.6m Castle Bell Tower for a view of the city.
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Cathedral Basilica of St James
The Cathedral Basilica of St James is a historic church built in the overwhelming fortress-like style favoured by the medieval religious authorities, which dominates the view toward the city centre. It was consecrated in 1187 but only reconstructed in 1972. On one side of the cathedral is the 15th-century vicarage and on the other a huge bell weighing almost 6 tonnes, dating from 1681.
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Karczma Polska Pod Kogutem
The rustic barn look is enduringly popular with restaurants serving traditional Polish food, and Karczma Polska doesn’t disappoint – there’s even a mock pigsty on the way downstairs to the toilets. Its external wooden deck is a great vantage point over the picturesque square opposite, and the menu offers plenty of options. Roast rabbit in hazelnut sauce, anyone?
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Pannekoekenrestaurant Haga
Haga specialises in very filling Dutch pancakes – over 400 varieties of ’em, served up in a dining room decorated with old wall clocks and porcelain plates. There’s also soup served within a bread loaf, which can be eaten afterwards – don’t try to tackle both this and a pancake unless you’re ravenous.
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Contemporary Art Museum
The Contemporary Art Museum, another National Museum campus directly across the street from the Department of Early Art, hosts changing displays of modern art. In both buildings the captions are primarily in Polish, but there is a general brochure available in English. A joint ticket to the two institutions is 10/5zł.
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Christopher Columbus
This bar-restaurant, boasting an attractive timber-lined interior, overlooks the river and its less than fascinating dockyards, but you can always turn your chair to face the nearby Naval Academy. The curved bar resembles a boat, and there’s a vast beer garden. Jazz and swing music is on Monday and Tuesday evenings, respectively.
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Maritime Museum
A third National Museum outpost is the grand Maritime Museum, on a hill next to the Naval Academy, above the waterfront. The maritime exhibits are a bit dull, but the regional archaeology displays and ethnographical artefacts present more interest. There are minimal English captions throughout the permanent exhibitions.
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National Museum’s Department of Early Art
The National Museum’s Department of Early Art is located in an 18th-century palace that formerly served as the Pomeranian parliament. It features a collection of religious art, particularly woodcarving from the 14th to 16th centuries, and you can also ogle the Pomeranian crown jewels.
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Restauracja Bombay
This would be quite a treat in any country – quality Indian food, including items such as thali meals, served in tastefully exotic surrounds by waiters with impeccable English. It’s owned by a former Miss India (1973 vintage), and boasts an appropriately international wine list.
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Mezzoforte/Zielony Abażur
This Italian restaurant leads a double life as one of Szczecin’s hippest bar-clubs, with a different musical flavour on the upstairs stereo every day, and guest artists laying beats in the basement at night. The outdoor seating on the cobblestone mall is a great place to sip a beer.
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Winiarnia Bachus
Classy wine bar offering outdoor seating overlooking the square in front of the town hall and it serves up beer, spirits and wine, though the selection isn’t as broad as you’d expect. There’s also fine food on the menu, including snails.
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City Hall
The basement of the massive Red Town Hall packs in up to 400 mad-for-it clubbers for some of the biggest nights in town, featuring rhythms from soul to house to R & B. The best night is Saturday, when Berlin DJs often hop over the border to play here.
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Restauracja Chata
Charming place serving traditional Polish food in rustic timber surroundings, decked out with folkloric items from peasant dresses to carved mirror frames. Some interesting specials tempt the curious, like joint of boar in a wild mushroom sauce.
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Avanti
Serious and authentic Italian food served in a refined, atmospheric interior that wouldn’t be out of place in any sophisticated city – if you excuse the scale model of the Leaning Tower of Pisa housing the wine selection.
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Brama Jazz Café
Housed in the Baroque Royal Gate, another fragment of lost history, the Brama has a DJ playing different styles of jazz on Tuesday nights. Have a drink in the relaxed outdoor area beneath a stern circle of carved Prussian eagles.
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Trezor
An unpromising entrance with an appearance halfway between the Tardis and a Portaloo, hidden in the courtyard back from the street, leads down into three floors of good old-fashioned hedonism. For over-20s only.
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Bar Rybarex
This budget fish cafeteria has a reasonable range of piscine dishes to choose from. From the vibrant red and blue interior, you can watch Szczecin life go by through the large plate-glass windows.
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