Grabarka

Introducing Grabarka

The Holy Mountain of Grabarka hardly means a thing to the average Roman Catholic Pole, yet it’s the largest Orthodox pilgrimage centre in Poland. Remote from main roads and important urban centres, the ‘mountain’ (more of a wooded mound, really) lies 1km east of the obscure hamlet of Grabarka. The only town of any size in the region is Siemiatycze, 9km to the west.

The story of the Grabarka crosses goes back to 1710, when an epidemic of cholera broke out in the region and decimated the population. Amid utter despair, a mysterious sign came from the heavens, which indicated that a cross should be built and carried to a nearby hill. Those who reached the top escaped death, and soon afterwards the epidemic disappeared. The hill became a miraculous site and a thanksgiving church was erected. Since then pilgrims have been bringing crosses here to place alongside the first one, and today the hill is covered with around 20, 000 crosses of different shapes and sizes.

A convent and a church are also hidden among woods on top of the hill. The 18th-century timber church went up in flames in 1990, but it was rebuilt in a similar shape to the previous one. The convent is more recent, established in the aftermath of WWII in an effort to gather all the nuns, scattered throughout the country, from the five convents that had existed before the war.

Grabarka’s biggest feast is the Spas (Day of Transfiguration of the Saviour) on 19 August. The ceremony begins the day before at 6pm and continues with Masses and prayers throughout the night, culminating at 10am with the Great Liturgy, celebrated by the metropolitan of the Orthodox Church in Poland. Up to 50, 000 people may come from all over the country to participate.

On 18 August the surrounding forest turns into a car park and camping ground. Cars and tents fill every space between the trees. Despite this wave of modernity, the older, more traditional generation comes on foot without any camping gear and keeps watch all night. The light of the thin candles adds to the mysterious atmosphere.

If you wish to experience this magical night, you have the same options – to pitch your tent or to stay awake. The commercial community is well represented, with plenty of stalls selling food and drink and a variety of religious goods, including CDs and cassettes of Orthodox church music.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009